Monday, April 28, 2014

Assisi During Canonization Time

Following Easter Week and Easter Monday, a holiday in Italy, one might have anticipated the crowds visiting Assisi would diminish. Instead, over the next several days a new flood of visitors appeared from all over the world. It soon became apparent what was happening: tens of thousands of faithful, arriving in Italy for the following Sunday's canonization ceremony for two popes, were traveling in tour groups that also would bring them to Assisi. So, approaching the Basilica di San Francesco:
A notice of the news.
Waiting in line to enter the Basilica.
And waiting.
Scouts hamming it up by the Piazza del Comune.
A group passing through the streets.
Another group, by the Basilica di Santa Chiara.
The Basilica di San Francesco during an early, quieter moment.
Sunday, canonization day, was fairly peaceful here. However today (Monday), the post-canonization groups began to arrive. Leaving the market after buying a loaf of bread this morning, I found myself walking along in the middle of a lively group from China, whose leader was carrying a large Chinese flag! Such is life in Assisi.
Ciao.

Friday, April 25, 2014

Spello Walk

For those who enjoy a good walk, it's a fairly straight trek of about six miles between Assisi and Spello, going along the foothills of Mount Subasio. About two hours at a brisk pace (and two more to return). The section between Viole and Spello is quite rural, without many vehicles and with plenty of wildflowers.
And occasional bystanders.
The last section of road before Spello is called, "The Way of the Olives." I'm not sure of the precise Italian spelling. Here's one street sign:
Here's another:
Either way, it's a beautiful place for walking through olive groves.
Before entering the city of Spello, there were a couple of places I hoped to find. The first was Spello's Roman amphitheater, which turned out to be fenced off and showing twenty centuries of wear.
An interesting historical finding is that most of Umbria's amphitheaters were built up from flat ground, rather than taking advantage of natural contours in the land. 
Slightly more challenging was finding the small Thirteenth Century Chiesa di Sant'Anna, which also was closed off and locked up.
But wait, there's something beyond the latticework.
A fresco dating back to at least the Sixteenth Century, with the Blessed Mother and Child with Saint Anne.
Another section of the fresco, an angel.
Inside Spello's walls there's plenty to see, do and explore. Here are just a few images. First, part of the carved wooden entry door of the Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore.
Second, the interior of the Chiesa di Sant'Andrea.
And some of the artwork of this church.
A portion of a fresco with Mary and Joseph.
A Thirteenth Century Madonna and Child embedded in the wall.
Probably could do a dozen posts on Spello. However, for this walk, I'll just leave you with a typical Spello store window.
A typical Spello cat with flowers.
And a typical Spello... I'm not sure what it is, but it has a good smile!
Ciao.

Sunday, April 20, 2014

Easter in Assisi

As in years past, last night I attended the Easter Vigil Service at the small Chiesa di Santa Margherita, which is in an old neighborhood above the Basilica di San Francesco.
Santa Margherita has seating for perhaps 70, and it seems for the Easter Vigil Mass about 100 arrive. Last night a scout troop showed up adding about 30 to the total. Needless to say, the church was very, very crowded, but the service was beautiful. This morning I stopped back and took a picture of the interior, decorated for Easter.
The Franciscans have been ministering to the Santa Margherita community continuously for about seven centuries.
On Easter Morning, a fog had settled over the valley, edging up into the lower parts of town.
Including part, but not all, of the Basilica di San Francesco.
Many thousands come to Assisi for Easter. I looked in at the upper church of the Basilica (with Giotto's frescoes of the life of Saint Francis) around 10:00 a.m. and it was practically full in anticipation of the 10:30 a.m. service. Meanwhile, the streets of town also were filling up, including the Piazza del Comune.
Here's a view including the bell tower and the Chiesa di Santa Maria sopra Minerva, now a church, but a roman temple two thousand years ago.
The crowds don't seem to deter cyclists from coming through town on a beautiful spring morning.
The pastry shops, of course, celebrate Easter as well.
And they can be quite creative.
This one young fellow in a window is wearing a sign saying he doesn't like chocolate. (note the very long nose)
Finally, an Assisi Easter egg.
Buona Pasqua!

Friday, April 18, 2014

Assisi Good Friday Morning Procession

On Good Friday morning, following an early service at the Cathedral of San Rufino, the "Processione per il trasferimento del 'Cristo Morto'" or "Procession for transferring of the 'Dead Christ'" is held. It follows a roundabout route from the Cathedral to the Basilica di San Francesco, stopping at convents along the way.
It seemed there were about 500 people in the procession as we set out through Assisi's narrow streets.
Approaching the Basilica di Santa Chiara.
Here the procession is filing back out of the Basilica di Santa Chiara.
Some members of the "confraternite", or brotherhoods, carry crosses and walk barefoot.
The wooden image of Christ is from a 1561 crucifix by an unknown author. Its home is above an altar in the Cathedral of San Rufino.
Ahead is the center of Assisi, the Piazza del Comune. The former Temple of Minerva columns, seen in the center of the picture on this side of the bell tower, are over 2000 years old.
And then the procession passes through another part of town, stopping at the Convent of Santa Croce.
Soon, the Basilica di San Francesco comes into sight.
As well as the valley below.
Continuing down toward the lower church of the Basilica.
And then going in for prayers.
Pace e bene e ciao.

Thursday, April 17, 2014

Almost Easter

With Easter almost here, the "Pasqua in Assisi" events, services and processions are underway.
As if in anticipation, the days have become cool, crisp and clear, with enough wind to discourage brush burning. Thus, fine views across the valley. The Basilica in Santa Maria degli Angeli can be seen in the right center. On the distant hill is Bettona, a long walk but a fine old city to visit, with its roman wall.
Here, on the right, is Assisi's Santa Maria Maggiore, built over an ancient roman residence. To the left of it is the bishop's residence, where a young Francis returned his belongings to his earthly father to begin following his Father in Heaven. On the distant hill beyond the church is the City of Perugia.
A view looking up at the Rocca Maggiore from in front of the Basilica of Saint Clare.
Could hardly help noticing that even the folks with the Saint Francis - Saint Clare - Pope Francis display, from a few posts back, are now readying for Easter.
And the flowers are in bloom on time.
Finally, a view of Mount Subasio with the sun rising behind.
Ciao.