Pieve San Nicolo

If one stands at the small piazza in front of Chiesa Santa Margherita overlooking the great Basilica of Saint Francis, one's eyes are drawn to the northwest and the idyllic Umbrian countryside extending up into the mountains.  It's a land of orchards, farms and forests.

Recently I walked up a road along a ridge to the left of the above region, intent on finding the distant community of Pieve San Nicolo (pop. 26).  Looking back provided some wonderful views of Mount Subasio.

After a wonderful morning stroll the nice hamlet of Pieve San Nicolo came into view.  The main structure seemed to be a church with a road curving up to it. 

On the front of the church was a poster asking the question (forgive my loose, freelance interpretation), "When does one find the time for God? (1) Too young to think of God.  (2) Too sure of oneself to think of God.  (3) Too tired to think of God.  (4) Too happy to think of God.  (5) Too busy to think of God.  (6) Too late to think of God." 

Across the road from the church was a vociferous, but friendly, dog.  His world consisted of a small fenced area which he shared with a propane tank, his little house, and flowers all about.  His job, it seemed, was to announce to all of Pieve San Nicolo that a visitor was about.

The day's real adventure began early on the way back,when I picked up a trail that runs from Assisi to Gubbio, a pathway that Francis followed.  A sign told a story, written in Italian and translated into English.  While the English translation may seem a bit rough, in truth it captures some of the expressive beauty of the Italian language.

In one of the most cold winters of San Francesco's youth he went far from Assisi without plan(n)ing before any important travel such as this, but it happened that he went through the road to Gubbio.  A friend, who San Francesco did not see for a long time, offered him hospitality in Gubbio.  The permanence of the saint in this town permitted him to consider himself under a wider light his commitment toward the suffering lepers and the excluded people from the society.  The path from Assisi-Valfabbrica-Gubbio is strongly dominated by San Francesco's spirit travel, which is represented by the chronicle described in the actual itinerary that is cor(r)espondent to the medieval road network.  People can become themselves as part of the nature and art of the path, which are Sa(n) Francesco's maturity essential aspects.  For instance, his love for creation and consciousness are part of the "church" community, and his continuous research in the peregrination is a fundamental element of stability and an achievement of the Christian "order".  The uniqueness of this path is to make us remember the Franciscan message in comparison to Francesco's suffering and cheerful life. 

Wonderfully, this path not only traces Francis' steps, it also passes through the countryside of the top photo.  Leaving the main road behind, first came a rocky path, then a string of rural roads.

The way was well marked.

And beautiful.

With signs of spring.

And interesting views of Assisi from a less travelled direction.

Finally, back up to town, after about a twelve mile walk.  Ciao.

Perugia

Yesterday, we took a bus ride to Perugia, a somewhat larger Umbrian city, home of the delicious Perugina chocolates, and an ancient rival of Assisi.  We rode through Collestrada, where a young Francis fought against Assisi's rival, was defeated, captured and imprisoned in a Perugian jail for a year. 
Perugia sits high on a hill.  Several years ago escalators were built to carry people up to the old part of town, passing through Sixteenth Century underground ruins on the way.

From there we walked along Corso Vannucci, a beautiful, wide old street, kept free from traffic, that takes one past many of Perugia's well preserved old buildings.

At the center of the above picture is Perugia's Duomo, or Cathedral of San Lorenzo, perhaps best described as "large" on the outside, but with an impressive interior.  Just before the Duomo is Fontana Maggiore.

Opposite the above is the Palazzo dei Priori, home of Perugia's city hall.  On the old Palazzo facade are a lion (for papal allegiance) and a griffin (for Perugia). 

In sorting out history, it's ineresting that a city loyal to the popes would vie fiercely with the the home of Saint Francis (although Assisi itself often was divided in it's loyalties).  Francis, thankfully, eventually opted for "pace e bene" (peace and goodness) over continued military pursuits.  

Continuing along we observed some interesting storefronts.

This one, with the name Faberge, was strictly for window shopping.

We also wandered some back streets.

And enjoyed some fine views.

Before making our way back to Assisi.

Ciao.

Assisi Potpourri

In celebration of Easter, here's a diverse collection of pictures from around Assisi.  First a favorite statue of St. Francis near San Damiano.

Next, a glimpse through a window at the Eremo delle Carceri.

A view of Assisi from the west, that includes the Basilica of Saint Francis in the foreground and Mount Subasio in the background.

A view from in town, including the fortress of Rocca Maggiore. 

An Assisi street.

Smiles.

Recent artwork at the childhood home of Francis.

A portrait of Saint Clare, by an entryway.

Ruins atop Colle San Rufino, a rise on the way up Mount Subasio.  Bronze objects from about the Fifth Century B.C. have been found here.

On the side of the Colle are some ruins, the origins of which I have not yet learned.  They appear to be ancient stone walls and the remains of stone structures carved into the hillside.  Interestingly, what might have been a main room seems to have been turned into an impromptu shrine at some point in the past hundred years (or so).  Within a niche in the wall have been placed religious objects, pictures, etc.

Including Saints Francis and Clare.

Back in Assisi, an evening view of the Cathedral of San Rufino.  The structure immediately below the bell tower was Clare's childhood home.

A roadside scene at the nearby town of Tordibetto.

And flowers atop Subasio.

Ciao.

Italian Health Food

Please study this picture.

Whether or not you are fluent in Italian, you may recognize this as gelato.  Funny how quickly we become bi-lingual under certain circumstances.  Gelato looks like ice cream.  However, in fact, they are differente.  You see, the gelato does not have the crema of ice cream, and thus has less grasso (fat) and fewer calories.  Thus, I think one may argue it is a healthier food.  What is health food if not food that is healthier? 

I refer you to the middle of the top row, to what is obviously the cioccolato (pronounced somewhat like chock-oh-latto, rolling easily off the tongue.... just as the gelato rolls easily onto the tongue).  The problem is, once one has tasted the cioccolato, what conceivable reason would one have to try any other flavor?  It is a dilemma (trans. "dilemma" - see, you are bilingual).  However, the flavor to the right of the cioccolato consists both of cioccolato and other good ingredienti.  How is one to resiste?  For one who has tasted them both, but one word remains to be translated.

Delizioso! 

Ciao.

Finding Sasso Rosso

Early on Palm Sunday morning I went searching for Sasso Rosso.  One might well ask, "What's Sasso Rosso?"  According to numerous websites, "Castle Sasso Rosso ('Redrock') on the slope of Mount Subasio was the site of Saint Clare of Assisi and Saint Agnes of Assisi' childhood since according to tradition they were the daughters of Favorino Scifi, Conte of Sasso-Rosso, the wealthy representative of an ancient Roman family, who owned a large palace in Assisi as well."  That was eight centuries ago.
While many writers mention this red rock castle as being where Saint Clare spent part of her childhood, an internet search for images of Sasso Rosso produced little beyond general pictures of Subasio and Assisi.  Certainly an old castle can fall to ruin over so much time, but disappearing completely seems not likely.
A detailed topographical hiking map of Subasio was helpful in determining where Sasso Rosso should be, or should have been.  It would involve about a two hour walk up country roads before breaking off on a narrow hiking path.
Why set out on Palm Sunday?  Because it was on the night following Palm Sunday in 1212 that Chiara, or Clare, set out secretly from her parent's home in Assisi to follow in the footsteps of a man named Francesco, or Francis, whose humble life would have much impact on the world.
On Palm Sunday, 2011, just after 6:00 a.m., the streets of Assisi were tranquil and empty.  I passed no one walking out of town, or following the country roads that gradually led up into the forests of Subasio, eventually turning onto the narrow trail.

An opening provided a glimpse of the landscape below.

Then, according to the map, the site of Sasso Rosso.

Climbing up a few steps led to a rectangular-shaped opening.  It's clear that much of Sasso Rosso is a natural rock formation.

Then, upon closer inspection, signs of a long-ago structure.

Crossing over to the other side reveals more.

Drawing closer.

Red rock remains of the past.

As a youth, Clare must have enjoyed the inspiring views from Sasso Rosso.

Clare, following Francis in his dedication to poverty, founded an order of nuns known today as the Poor Clare Sisters.  There are more than 20,000 Poor Clares serving in at least 70 countries around the world.

Ciao.

Assisi Visitor

Simone Weil visited Assisi in 1937.

“When I got to Assisi, Milan, Florence, Rome and all the rest completely disappeared from my memory, so captivated was I by the gentle landscape, so miraculously evangelical and Franciscan, by the delightful churches, by a wealth of happy memories and by those noble examples of humanity- the Umbrian country folk, rich in beauty, physical strength, joy and kindness.

Little had I dreamt such a marvelous place existed. I would have stayed for the rest of my life – if only women were accepted - at the tiny monastery of the Carceri, an hour and fourteen minutes walk up the mountainside from Assisi. No more heavenly and tranquil sight exists than Umbria as seen from up there. Saint Francis certainly knew how to choose the most ravishing spots to practice poverty: He was far from being an ascetic….”
- Simone Weil

The Eremo delle Carceri.

View from the Eremo.

Assisi, looking up from in front of the Basilica of Saint Francis to the small Church of Santa Margherita

Ciao.

Walking About Mount Subasio

Yesterday some fine Spring weather provided an opportunity to attempt a long time goal of walking around Mount Subasio.  Generally, one thinks in terms of climbing mountains, and the summit of Subasio is a good trek.  Many interesting trails weave over and around the mountain and its foothills, providing beautiful views of the blossoming countryside.  However, yesterday was a day for walking around rather than up and over. I hope to write more about the day later.  For now, here's a few pictures of places visited along the way.  First, starting out early from Assisi, looking over the valley.

 The next town has the interesting name of Costa Di Trex.

The country road the leads to an old town called Armenzano, with close, interesting pathways.

Although there's very little traffic, one must be alert for rockslides from the mountain.  If an avalanche doesn't clunk one on the head, there's always the possibility of a passing vehicle finishing the job.

Next was San Giovanni, and then the charming town of Collepino, as seen from afar.

And along one of its streets.

In many places the roads are lined with Olive trees, so beautiful in the springtime.

At last, the ancient town of Spello is in sight, most of the way around the mountain.

More interesting streets to explore.

A typical Spello store. 

A fountain for refilling my water bottle, below an ancient aquaduct.

Still plenty of walking to do.

One sees many small shrines along the roads.  This tile is part of one on the way from Spello to Assisi.

Please, when passing through Capodacqua, obey the speed limit and do not toot your horn!

At last, a gate back into Assisi.

The walk around Subasio, including exploring towns, was about 25 miles.  Ate a very large plate of spaghetti for dinner last night.  Interestingly, walking so close to the foothills meant barely glimpsing the summit.  However, on my way down to Santa Maria degli Angeli this morning, I looked backed up and saw the top of Subasio covered in white from an overnight snow.

Ciao.