Around Assisi

It's a cold and rainy March day in Assisi. Winter seems to be having trouble letting go. A short walk to the Basilica of Saint Clare this morning turned into a drenching, umbrella-inverting adventure. Now seems a good time to post a few odds and ends pictures from around town. First, an evening view of the Torre del Popolo, the tower overlooking the Piazza del Comune.

Next, a manger scene from a storefront window.

Here's a heavy duty lightweight truck. Small, practical, three-wheel trucks are popular here, but even in Italy there seems a temptation to upgrade.

A view through the wall of the Rocca Maggiore fortress.

Signs of Spring.

Another view of town from above.

A photo, posted in the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, of a priest often seen there and at the small Church of San Stefano, meeting with a special visitor.

A fresco in the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore.

This is the tiny Chapel of San Feliciano, along the path between Assisi and San Damiano. It's gated closed, and I've never seen it open. However, there is a small opening in the wooden entrance door, just enough to look through.

Here is within.

Ciao.

Atop Colcaprile

To the north of Assisi, on the west side of Mount Subasio, is a rise called Colcaprile, that may be described as a small mountain or a large hill. Here's a picture.

For a long while I thought the mountain-hill on the left was Colcaprile, and technically it may be part of it. However, the actual summit can be seen further back, just to the right of the front rise, and is of course higher, though it may not appear so from this angle. Mount Subasio rises up on the right of the picture.
I had hiked up in the direction of Colcaprile in the past, but had found no signs or access for the summit. (There are "Colcaprile" signs along the way for an event facility of that name, a fenced off enclosure, but no trail markers.)
This time I again followed country roads down from Assisi and up through rural settings to the left of the above picture. However, when the summit came in view, it was time to turn off on some unmarked dirt roads and, after a few false starts, to follow one winding along in the right direction. Unfortunately, part way in it was fenced off with barbed wire, and there was no welcome sign.

However, as may be observed, there also were no private property keep out beware of the dogs trespassers will be prosecuted signs, which is just about as good as a warm welcome. Then, there it was, off to one side, an inviting opening with enough space to squeeze through.

The summit was an easy uphill trek from there, and afforded some good views, this one looking back toward Assisi.

The walk also included some fine views of a less visited side of Assisi. In this picture one can see the Rocca Maggiore on the left, the cemetery sitting lower in the center and the Basilica of Saint Francis on the right.

Finally, going and returning one passes over an old bridge (rebuilt over time) that was crossed by Charlemagne's troops on their way to Rome for him to be crowned Holy Roman Emperor.

Over twelve centuries ago, undeterred by barbarians or barbed wire.
Ciao.

A Special Place on Colle San Rufino

High up on Mount Subasio is a steep hill called Colle San Rufino, that sits prominently on the Assisi side of the mountain. Many hikers going up and down the mountain might pass it by without much thought. It first came to my attention years ago when I saw horses grazing atop it. It turns out to be a place of archeological significance predating Assisi, and ruins can be found along the ridge of the hill.
I visited Colle San Rufino on a recent climb of Subasio, but not before taking a "shoefie" on the mountain summit.

Really, this was taken very close to the summit marker.

The trek back down included crossing over the top of Colle San Rufino and revisiting an interesting, unmarked location carved into the rocky hillside, that some person or persons years ago transformed into a rough shrine. Here are a few pictures, the first looking down from above.

Next from the side.

Here are some closer pictures, starting with a manger scene (with a fallen cow).

Another manger scene, sheltered by plastic.

 Two venerated saints.

A quote (trans: Two things in the world will never abandon you: the eye of God that always sees you, the heart of the Mother that always follows you) and a cross.

Saint Catherine of Siena.

The Basilica of Saint Francis in Assisi.

Sacred Art.

With inspiring views of Subasio above and the valley below, Colle San Rufino is a special place to visit.
Ciao.

Revisiting Gabbiano Vecchio

Deep in the forest on the Spello side of Mount Subasio, unmarked by any signs and accessible only by a narrow path, lies the remains of a town called Gabbiano Vecchio (Old Seagull). I've posted about it in the past and revisited it on a recent hike. Thus far, I've been able to discover very little of the history of Gabbiano Vecchio. What remains are parts of a few structures, the gem of which is the Chiesa di Sant'Antonio (Church of Saint Anthony). I'm told by an art expert that the frescoes within are likely 17th Century. The church is in the process of decay, so its treasures may not not be around much longer. Here's the path into Gabbiano Vecchio.

Approaching the church.

The altar area.

Saint Anthony.

The dilapidated ceiling.

As seen from the forest.

A word of advice to any hikers: there are poisonous viper snakes in this area. I've never seen one, but it would be wise to avoid stepping or reaching into dark places or dense growth. With an ounce of caution you should have no problems.
Gabbiano Vecchio is a unique and special place.
Ciao.

Art et cetera

With springlike weather, yesterday I took a long stroll, 20 or so miles, first deep into the forest to visit the ghost town of Gabbiano Vecchio, then across the lower part of Subasio to the wonderful old town of Collepino, then down past Spello for a winding walk back to Assisi. Took enough pictures to do a few posts; however, until the weather changes, it's not easy to stay indoors. Rather than focusing on one location, the theme of this post is "art", meaning either photos of art, or an attempt at artistic photos.
First, last Spring I posted updates on efforts to uncover and restore frescoes in Assisi's Chiesa Nuova (New Church) (though not at all new). These portraits essentially were plastered over a few hundred years ago, and are now again visible. Here is a section of a column from last year.

Here is the same column today.

An earlier post included a view from my window of the fountain in the Piazza del Comune. The fountain has been there at least since 1303, although it didn't take on its current form until more recently, just 242 years ago.

In the dilapidated old Church of Saint Anthony in Gabbiano Vecchio there remain some frescoes (probably Seventeenth Century). The date on the cupola of the church is 1255. The art is now partially exposed to the elements. Here's a section of one work.

And a closer view.

In the category of natural art, on the road between Spello and Assisi there is a beautiful stand of trees that capture the eye.

Nearby is a peaceful road called the Way of the Olives.

In the category of Italian Garden Folk Art.... I'm reminded of Groucho Marx attempting to explain a viaduct to Chico, and Chico asking, "Why a duck?"

The "Why a duck?" leads to the recently repaired Roman aqueduct that runs between Collepino and Spello. In walking along this two thousand year old engineering gem, one notices that the restorers added intermittent bon mots from more recent times. For example,

Trans: "A day without smiles is a day lost."
For animal art lovers, near Spello I heard barking, but saw no dog, until looking up.

Finally, an "unselfie". This is not me, not sitting in a favorite sunny spot in Assisi, by the Church of San Stefano, enjoying a chocolate gelato.

Ciao.

About Town

Settling in after much travel has meant walking down to Santa Maria degli Angeli to stock up on food and enjoying shorter walks around Assisi. Last evening provided nice light for a picture of the tree growing atop the San Giacomo gate. I've seen a picture of a postcard from around 1900, perhaps earlier, with no sign of a tree. However, in a 1920 postcard it is quite visible, supposedly having sprung up on its own and survived nicely, despite the elements and the uncertainties of time and history passing under it.

Below is a view of the brick walkway connecting Santa Maria degli Angeli and the Basilica of Saint Francis in Assisi, built with donations from thousands who have their names engraved on individual bricks.

It's a fine way for first time visitors (traveling lightly) to approach Assisi, an uphill climb with wonderful views, even on hazy days.

In and around Assisi one encounters many small shrines, ranging from the simple to the detailed, some quite artistic, others with beautiful flowers. Two caught my eye this morning, the first portraying Francis taming the wolf of Gubbio.

The second a more contemporary image of Mother and Child.

Of course, there are other fine things in Assisi that also catch the eye.

It's nice just strolling about town; but, with good weather in the forecast, some walking adventures are on the horizon.
Ciao.

Buongiorno from Assisi

After a 25 hour journey that included flights from California to Washington D.C. to Fiumicino Airport, a train into Rome, a train to Foligno, a train to Santa Maria degli Angeli, a bus to Assisi and a walk past the childhood home of Saint Clare, I arrived at my home for the next two months on a sunny Umbrian afternoon. One might observe, cheerfully, that but for missing the Foligno connection due to a train delay, it would have only been a 24 hour journey. However, when one arrives to springlike weather in Assisi, the challenges of a long trip just melt away. Now, after a good meal at Pizzeria Otello, a good night's sleep and a fine morning stroll back down to Santa Maria degli Angeli, the world is looking quite beautiful again. Here's a window view from where I'm staying.

That's the fountain in the Piazza del Comune below, the center of town. It's approximately 87 steps down (or up), for those who enjoy exercise, or perhaps offsetting the impacts of frequent trips for gelato. Here's a view from the opposite direction.

Home-away-from-home is the upper set of green shutters.
Am heading out now, with much to do, but will be posting more soon. Ciao.