Monday, March 30, 2015

Wandering on Mount Subasio

I've been back in Assisi for a few weeks now. Following some recent heavy rains the skies cleared and the winds calmed, an invitation to an early Spring hike on Mount Subasio. With no definite plans other than avoiding trails that were bound to be muddy, I set out early in the direction of Fonte Maddalena, a vigorous climb along an old dirt road. The aged fountain appeared about as sturdy as ever.
 Add a bit of sunshine to the rain and wildflowers appear, far many more than just a week earlier.
After covering some switchbacks, I picked up Trail #61. This trail begins in Costa di Trex and goes to the summit. It's well-marked if not well-worn, probably due to fewer numbers of hikers starting from a rural hamlet. It was muddy in places, but quite passable.
Above the tree line, the already excellent views improved.
After a visit to the summit of Subasio, next stop was Mortaro Grande, a large naturally formed sinkhole, once used as a place to compress snow and store it as ice for the warmer months. It's over 900 feet wide and almost 200 feet deep.
Here's a closer angle. Those who hike to the bottom, a steep descent, sometimes assemble rocks to create art or messages.
 Here's what a mortaro looks like from the bottom up.
Next I started down on Trail #50 in the direction of the Eremo and Assisi. More hikers and some mountain bikers were about at lower elevations. Passed through an area near the Rifugio di Vallonica where many horses were grazing.
Old and young were enjoying the fine weather.
 Had to share the trail with this one.
 Nice to see families out enjoying Subasio in the springtime.
Ciao.

Saturday, March 21, 2015

A Quieter Venice - Part II

Continuing to seek out some of Venice's quieter locations, there are times when the islands of Burano and Torcello are not crowded, making it easier to appreciate their beauty and history. Here are a few images of colorful Burano.
 Colors that reflect in the canals.
This trattoria has a decaying sign with a metal sculpture of grapes. The grapes were so well formed they seem real.
Burano's streets of water flow out to the Venice lagoon and the sea.
Not far from Burano is the island of Torcello, one of the earliest Venetian settlements. One walks along the side of a canal to enter this small community.
There are many artifacts about town ranging from ancient to simply old, from the sacred to the just curious. This image of a holy person is one of many depictions attached to a brick wall.
Here is an old well, not unlike those found throughout Venice.
Does this unusual statue depict a mischievous person, a beggar, a saint or someone else?
A pair of shutters left ajar.
Not everything in Torcello is so worn by time. This view looks through the window of a shop filled with an interesting mix of old and new creations
Back to the center of Venice. Looking up, up from the crowds of tourists in and about Saint Marks's Square, one sees shadows of statues.
And a bit higher, the statues themselves.
They continue on, behind a lamppost.
And still looking up, under an entry to the Church of San Marco, one finds beautifully detailed tile work.
With so much art and architecture and history, it's no wonder so many travel to Venice. Yet daily life in Venice goes on as in the rest of the world. Here, the search for warmth on a mostly sunny winter day draws people from the cold canals and dark alleys to places of light.
Ciao.

Thursday, March 19, 2015

A Quieter Venice - Part I

With millions of Venice visitors, there is no shortage of photos of Saint Mark's Square, the Rialto, the Bridge of Sighs and other famous locations. The following pictures are mostly from less crowded spots, quiet campos, the outer islands, and lesser canals. Also included are a few easily missed views from main walkways or waterways.
Not every canal is Grand, but each one is vital in a city with streets of water. Notice how the Venetian flag sits above the Italian flag, not surprising when one considers Venice's thousand year history of independence versus its brief century and a half as part of a united Italy.
And the lesser canals that wind through the inner parts of the city hold their own simple, special attraction.
Some of the quieter campos, like this one, are found in the Castello sestieri, or section, in the eastern part of Venice.
These windows look over the Campo Do Pozzi (two wells).
Pisa may have a leaning tower, but so does the Church of San Pietro di Castello.
 It's not difficult to discern residential parts of Venice on laundry days.
 Here, in the neighborhood east of the Arsenale, Venice's old shipbuilding area, is a unique door.
Close by is the local Communist Party Headquarters, marked by a red flag, a religious shrine, laundry, pigeons and, inside, a picture of Che Guevara. (Not exactly the combination one is likely to find in other communist hotspots)
Those familiar with the movie Pane e Tulipani might recognize this small shrine near the Campo Do Pozzi.
Venice has many sotoporteghi, or walkways that pass under buildings. Above an entry to one in the Arsenale area is an interesting combination of an angel and two hedgehogs, perhaps symbols from a family coat of arms.
Here's a peaceful neighborhood walkway.
Out over the water, people visit along the Grand Canal.
A row of posters silently announce upcoming events, from opera to concerts and other stage performances.
Meanwhile, back in a bookshop window, a cat calmly studies a framed print.
While a man with a hat shop sits behind a desk amid his wares. Can you find him?
Hope to post Part II in a day or so. Ciao for now.