In a
Walking from Gubbio to Assisi post last year, I wrote about missing a trail marker and having to slog through the mudflats of the Chiascio River. As it turns out, my unintended route may well have been the actual path Saint Francis followed when walking between the two towns.
However, deviating from the main trail meant missing two landmarks, the old castle of Biscina and the Church of Caprignone. This year, pushing the bounds of what constitutes a good day hike, I set out from Assisi at 5:00 a.m. on an out and back trek to explore those two sites. After a few hours of walking and having crossed over the Chiascio near the town of Valfabbrica, the castle of Biscina could be seen in the distance.
I had been walking mostly roads to make good time, but now it was onto some nice trails.
Before actually reaching Biscina, it was clear that the 12th Century castle had seen better days.
As wonderful as the area was for hiking, the overgrown ruins of Biscina weren't much to see.
The castle appeared more idyllic from afar.
Now it was on to the Church of Caprignone, set deep in the woods, but eventually coming into view, as seen in the lower left below.
About half way between Biscina and Caprignone, I passed between a country home and its garden, where an elderly woman was working. A barking black dog, of average size, came running toward me, behaving concerned but not angry, yet not fully at ease. The woman called her, and she retreated again before romping in my direction a few more times. I continued on down the hill toward Caprignone.
The Church of Caprignone is an important Franciscan site. Built near an ancient pagan temple and over the ruins of an 11th Century church, it is supposedly where, in 1223, when Francis was still alive, the Franciscans held their first chapter meeting away from from Assisi.
There are some art treasures within; however, no one was about this day to unlock the doors.
Still, it was a beautiful, quiet location, a good place for a break before starting the long trek back.
On the trail again, there are places where Franciscan routes overlap, and one may also see the Franciscan Tau sign.
The trail was decorated with many interesting signs of Spring.
It wasn't until just after passing the garden where I had encountered the dog that I noticed this sign, written in Italian, English and French.
As the print is not very clear, it says,
If you are doing the "Saint Francis Walk" you will see me! I'm the "Saint Francis' wolf" and I really love barking! I'm afraid of walking sticks, so I can be agitated. But if you call me ZANNA, you will see, I will become immediately calm! Maybe I will come with you for a few minutes, but then I will go home! - Zanna - The "Saint Francis' wolf" would be the one of Gubbio, a town several miles away where, according to legend, Francis tamed a large and dangerous wolf. So, should you ever walk between Biscina and the Church of Caprignone, be sure to greet Zanna by her name and to enjoy her company.
As it was still around midday, I ventured off onto other trails for the long trek home. Eventually reaching Valfabbrica, tired and thirsty, I hoped to refill my water bottle at a fountain there, but the fountain was closed, as was the local market. However, about a mile beyond town, sitting on the side of the trail was a flowing fountain!
A little blessing while walking in the footsteps of Saint Francis. A good drink certainly helped in tackling the steep uphill climb from Valfabbrica.
Finally, Assisi came into sight.
I arrived back home a little before 7:00 p.m., having walked about 36 miles, tired but inspired as usual by the beautiful Umbrian countryside. So, that's the story behind the long title of this post.
Ciao.
