Tuesday, May 10, 2016

Cappella della Maddalena

After another fine Assisi visit, I'll be leaving tomorrow, with hopes of returning before long. For a parting post, here's a few pictures of a small treasure, one of many in and around Assisi.
On a recent morning walk on Mount Subasio, I entered the forest of the Eremo delle Carceri and found myself alone, enjoying the serenity and appreciative of how Francis must have loved to retire there for prayer.
At the Eremo, I visited a small chapel, a part of the hermitage. It's called the Cappella della Maddalena, and was built in 1484, around the time of Columbus.
It was constructed with the support of a noblewoman named Francesca de' Baglioni, to hold the remains of a well-respected brother named Barnaba Manassei, who had died at the Eremo in 1477.
Inside, there's room for a handful of people. 
Along with an altar, there's a statue of Saint Francis with birds and some flowers. A thoughtful setting for quiet contemplation.
And there is a very small bell, much in keeping with Francis' humble nature. Perhaps for announcing prayer time.
Alone and inspired, I reached over and rang it.
La pace sia con te.
Ciao.

Saturday, May 7, 2016

On Colle San Rufino

On a recent windy day I walked up Mount Subasio to a "hill" named Colle San Rufino. It's a very distinct rise, about two-thirds of the way to the summit, hard to miss and a steep climb from any direction. Perhaps that's why a settlement on Colle San Rufino predated Assisi. It provides good views in all directions and an advantageous position from which to defend.
There are remnants of walls on the top and side of the hill, basically built into the terrain.
On this particular day the wind atop Colle San Rufino was gusting at about 40 - 50 miles per hour, making it a bit challenging to take photos, or to stand. Soon I moved down to a more protected area, the site of a makeshift shrine that's always interesting to visit. I'm not sure who first created this spiritual landscape, or how many may have contributed to the effort, and it certainly has been worn down by the elements. However, each year there seems to be something new or interesting added or repaired. One is greeted by a sign.
Chiesa del Povero means Church of the Poor. A metal cross sits in the middle of the shrine's mountain shelf.
 Many of the icons are secured to the upper part of the cliff.
Here's a wider view.
And here are some of the religious items placed on the rocks.
This lower view includes some worn and broken pieces.
Here's a closer look at a couple of tiles, the right one including the Canticle of the Creatures in Italian.
And the Basilica of Saint Francis.
Before leaving, I spotted something underneath the upper cliff, protected by a piece of plastic.
A Nativity scene.
Finally, one of many nice messages.
"Who gives, gives to God."
Ciao.

Monday, May 2, 2016

Gabbiano Vecchio Update and Monte Pietrolungo

Recently I did some exploring along the far side of Monte Subasio in the direction of Spello, starting out along country roads above a thin fog covering the valley.
Within a couple of hours I was deep in the woods, looking to revisit Gabbiano Vecchio. This ghost town has a tiny dilapidated church dedicated to Saint Anthony, home of some beautiful but rapidly deteriorating 17th Century frescos. The unmarked trail into town no longer amounts to much.
Nor does the town itself, after many years of overgrowth.
But the Chiesa di Sant'Antonio is still standing.
Then came a surprise, more good than bad. For years I've been concerned that a lack of maintenance and security for the church are resulting in the deterioration of Sant'Antonio's frescos. The roof is falling in; the entry door disappeared a couple of years ago. Now, someone has taken steps to secure the church with a metal plate.
A good first step. No signs of any repairs, but at least someone has taken notice. Of course, this encouraging finding also meant a trace of disappointment at not getting to view the frescos again. Here's a photo from a 2015 visit.
From Gabbiano Vecchio it was back into the woods in the direction of Monte Pietrolungo, a smaller mountain located in the Spello - Collepino region. I had seen Monte Pietrolungo on maps and had hiked past it on many occasions, but had never seen signposts for a summit trail.
Crossing through the forest, I came across a sign… of peace. Even lesser known paths here can have their Franciscan graffiti.
At one point, my map indicated a lago, or lake. Here it was, humble in size but resting in a tranquil morning setting.
Reaching the road that traverses Mount Subasio, I started downhill, searching for a dirt way that the map indicated went up Monte Pietrolungo. The only realistic option seemed to be this unmarked (other than a sign restricting vehicle access) path, plenty wide with a gentle slope.
I had heard that there was a cross atop Monte Pietrolungo, but wasn't prepared for what would come into view after a comfortable uphill climb.
Though the day was a bit hazy, the views of the Apennines, the valley and towns all the way to Perugia were terrific. Of course, the cross was impressive, as well.
It was time to head back to Assisi. I decided on a different route that involved climbing part way up Subasio and crossing over past Fonte Bregno. On this higher trail it was possible to look back over Monte Pietrolungo. If you have a large enough monitor and look closely, the cross can be seen to the right of center.
From that point it was a long but pleasant stroll back to Assisi, with no shortage of Spring's red poppies along the way.
Ciao.