Assisi 2020 - X

This is the Tenth and final post in a series sharing information and perspectives on the lives of Saints Francis and Clare, life in Assisi and seeking to follow Franciscan values in today's world. Hopefully, in the not-too-distant future, I'll be posting again from Assisi. La pace sia con te.

Gospel Quote - Luke 17: 5-6. The apostles said to the Lord, "Increase our faith." The Lord replied, "If you had faith as tiny as a mustard seed, you could say to this mulberry tree, 'Be uprooted and planted in the sea,' and it would obey you."

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Umbrian Adventure - When the weather allows, one may walk out the door in Assisi and begin a trek up Mount Subasio. The follow is from a 2016 post.
Assisi, for those who have never visited, sits on the side of Mount Subasio. One can hardly approach the town from any direction without being impressed by this singular mountain. Assisi slants upward in her direction. Climbing Subasio on foot begins before even passing through the city's upper gate.

Subasio is rich in natural beauty and history, has numerous hiking trails, and has long served as a spiritual haven. Hikers contemplating visits to Assisi may wonder about the nature and accessibility of Subasio's trails. Is it a challenging hike to the Eremo delle Carceri? Are there trails leading to the summit? What are the weather conditions like?
Let's begin with this last question. The summer brings mild, even hot days to the mountain, while winter brings icy cold winds and snow. Spring brings both. So, for example, you may awake in late March to see the summit coated with snow, or you may awake to a near perfect cool, clear hiking day. On a partly sunny day in Assisi, the mountain may be enveloped in dense clouds offering just a few yards of visibility. So, watching the weather and choosing trails carefully are important before setting out. If the forecast looks bad, stay closer to town and enjoy the flowers.

Subasio's lower trails are easily accessible from locations around the base of the mountain. From Assisi,  the closest way to begin is by passing through Porta Cappuccini, the highest city gate. Recently, new trail signs were placed on Subasio, and one of them stands just beyond the gate.

From there, on Trail #50 a walker may start out for the Eremo dell Carceri or for the high country. There are even some unofficial Franciscan trail markers, as observed by this Peace of Tau blog.

The lower part of the trail is rocky and steep in places, and in rainy or hot weather walkers hoping to reach the Eremo might find following the country road more manageable. With most any path, road or trail, you will have good views of Assisi.

Those wishing to bypass the Eremo and head directly for the high country may want to turn left onto Trail #53 where it intersects with Trail #50 after a steep section of climbing. From higher up on Trail #53 one can either follow the dirt road to the summit, or continue on the trail and pick up Trail #61, which also leads to the top.
For those walking the road, with a brisk pace, the Eremo can be reached in less than an hour, and it takes about two hours to approach the tree line.
The trails leading to the tree line do have steep, rocky sections, but generally involve gradual climbing on good paths.

By late March there are no shortage of wildflowers along the trails.

When the pavement ends for road walkers, and trail hikers come out of the forests, the views open wide. The view below, just above the tree line, includes the summit area in the distance to the left of center, Colle San Rufino to the right, and a mountain sculpture to the far left.

This day was a bit hazy, but the Apennine views were still fine.

While usually there are few hikers about in March, one does encounter other high country visitors.

There is much to see high up on Subasio, including natural formations called mortari that resemble sinkholes in appearance.

Here's Mortaro Grande, a nice "hike within a hike" to reach the bottom.

Subasio's summit can be approached from any direction and it is well marked. It sits on a grassy rise with spectacular views in every direction. On a clear day it's an easy approach, roughly 3 - 4 hours above Assisi. On a day when the summit is clouded and visibility low, it can be a challenge to find, even from the dirt road that passes high over the mountain.

When starting back down there are a few trail options, including those heading to Assisi, to the Eremo or to Costa di Trex (a few miles from Assisi). There's also the dirt road, the path of choice when the weather is suspect. Starting down this day on Trail #50, which can be picked up below the dirt road between the summit and the radio towers, I observed someone who had recently taken flight.

That's one way to descend the mountain. A stretch of great views included a glimpse of Assisi from just off the trail.

Trail #50 eventually passes through an area of gentle hills.

Here there are usually horses about, grazing or getting a refreshing drink at an old stable.

Finally, after a couple of hours descending, it's back through Porta Cappuccini into town, ready for a pizza at the I Monaci restaurant.
Here's a few tips for first time hikers.
*Try to pick up a trail map before starting out. Zubboli's Bookstore on Assisi's Piazza del Comune may have them available, or the nearby Tourist Information Office may know where one can be found.
*Check the weather forecast, then be prepared for the worst case scenario. Subasio can cloud in with strong winds, severe cold, rain or snow during much of the year. Wear layers, as a cold morning can turn into a mild and sunny afternoon.
*If you only have a few hours, enjoy walking up to and exploring the Eremo delle Carceri. If you have more time, consider heading off on some of Subasio's more remote trails, exploring the mortari, searching for the abandoned town of Gabbiano Vecchio, climbing on Colle San Rufino (where some of Assisi earliest settlers lived and where a makeshift shrine may be found), or simply heading up trails or dirt roads to the summit.
*Hang gliding? You're on your own.
*Bring plenty of food and, especially, water. Seeing pilgrims trying to make their way up to the Eremo around noon on a warm, sunny day without water is not a pretty site.
*Start out early, at about daylight for a climb to the summit. A cool uphill climb is easier and there's essentially no early morning traffic on the lower road. In fact, you may not encounter anyone on foot or in vehicles, and you'll get to experience the serenity of Subasio from the moment you pass through Porta Cappuccini. You'll also have more time to explore.

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Reflections - One of the wonderful "Little Flower" legends of Saint Francis involves his sharing with Brother Leo how to find perfect joy. First Francis lists several special deeds that would not bring perfect joy, including setting examples of holiness, making the lame to walk, chasing away demons, giving sight to the blind, hearing to the deaf, speech to the dumb, raising the dead after four days, explaining all Scripture; speaking with the tongues of angels, converting all infidels to the faith of Christ, and much more.
When Brother Leo begs, “Father, I pray thee teach me wherein is perfect joy.” Francis explains how if, after a rainy, cold and exhausting journey, they are turned away from their own home, accused of being imposters, and are abused and cast out into the snow and rain, and if they, "accept such injustice, such cruelty and such contempt ... and bear all these injuries with patience and joy, thinking of the sufferings of our Blessed Lord, which we would share out of love for him, write, O Brother Leo, that here, finally, is perfect joy."
Then Francis explains, "Above all the graces and all the gifts of the Holy Spirit which Christ grants to his friends, is the grace of overcoming oneself, and accepting willingly, out of love for Christ, all suffering, injury, discomfort and contempt; for in all other gifts of God we cannot glory, seeing they proceed not from ourselves but from God, according to the words of the Apostle, ‘What hast thou that thou hast not received from God? and if thou hast received it, why dost thou glory as if thou hadst not received it?’ But in the cross of tribulation and affliction we may glory, because, as the Apostle says again, ‘I will not glory save in the cross of our Lord Jesus Christ.’ Amen.”

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Something Franciscan - It took time for Francis to gain his first follower. Now, eight centuries later, he has many more. There are three Franciscan orders. The First Order includes consecrated male religious who are Observants (Order of Friars Minor), or Conventuals (Order of Friars Minor Conventuals), or Capuchins (Order of Friars Minor Capuchins). The Second Order, the Order of Saint Clare, includes consecrated female religious. The Third Order includes both the Third Order Regular (various congregations of religious) and the Third Order Secular (lay persons). Worldwide, close to half a million persons belong to one of the Orders of Saint Francis.

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Thank you for reading. Hopefully I'll be posting more in the not-distant future... from Assisi.

Pax et bonum.

Assisi 2020 - IX

This is the Ninth in a series of posts sharing information and perspectives on the lives of Saints Francis and Clare, life in Assisi and seeking to follow Franciscan values in today's world.

Gospel Quote - Matthew 11: 4-6. "Go back and tell John what you hear and see: the blind receive their sight, the lame walk, those who have leprosy are cured, the deaf hear, the dead are raised to life, and the poor have the good news proclaimed to them. And blessed is anyone who takes no offense at me."

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Umbrian Adventure - For those interested in a vigorous day trek from Assisi, a fine town to visit is Spello. Here's an updated description from past posts.
It's a fairly straight trek of about six miles each way between Assisi and Spello, going along the foothills of Mount Subasio. About two hours at a brisk pace (and two more to return). The section after the village of Viole is quite rural, without many vehicles and with plenty of wildflowers.

And occasional bystanders.

The last section of road before Spello is called, "The Way of the Olive Trees." I'm not sure of the correct Italian spelling. Here's one street sign:

Here's another:

Either way, it's a beautiful place for walking through olive groves.

Before entering the town, I hoped to find Spello's Roman amphitheater, which turned out to be fenced off and showing twenty centuries of wear.

An interesting historical finding is that most of Umbria's amphitheaters were built up from flat ground, rather than taking advantage of natural contours in the land.
Up the hill from the amphitheater is one of Spello's main gates.

Spello goes back to Etruscan times and, like Assisi, is a well preserved town with much to see. Special treasures include paintings of Perugino and Pinturicchio found in local churches. Also, there is the Twelfth Century San Severino Church, which has an interesting interior and history.
A special out-of-the-way find is the small Thirteenth Century Chiesa di Sant'Anna, which on this day was closed off and locked up.

Fortunately, one could still view beyond the latticework.

A fresco dating back to at least the Sixteenth Century, with the Blessed Mother and Child with Saint Anne.

Another section of the fresco, an angel.

Inside Spello's walls there's much to see, do and explore. Here are just a few images. First, part of the carved wooden entry door of the Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore.

Second, the interior of the Chiesa di Sant'Andrea.

Some of the artwork of this church includes a 16th Century Enthroned Madonna and Child with saints by Pinturicchio and some of his followers. (Note the stigmata on Saint Francis' feet and hands.)

And a portion of a 16th Century fresco with Saints Joachim and Anne, by Dono Doni.

A 13th or 14th Century Madonna and Child embedded in the wall.

Probably could do a dozen posts on Spello. However, for now will leave you with a typical Spello store window.

A typical Spello cat with flowers.

And a typical Spello... not sure what it is, but it has a good smile!

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Reflections - Art inspires. Here are some examples from Italy (including public domain photos in the USA) with a few added comments.
The first is the Apparition of The Virgin to Saint Bernard by Filippino Lippi (c 1486), to be found in the Badia Fiorentina in Florence. Capturing a miraculous moment for Bernard of Clairvaux, whose writings often focused on Mary.

Second is Cimabue's depiction of Saint Francis, part of his late Thirteenth Century Madonna Enthroned with Saint Francis, to be found in the lower church of the Basilica of Saint Francis in Assisi. A humble Francis, with stigmata wounds, in the latter years of his life.

Third is Domenico Bruschi's Death of Saint Francis (c 1886), to be found in the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli by where Francis died. Angels arrive to accompany him to Heaven

Finally is Fra Angelico's The Annunciation (c 1440-1445), to be found in the Church of San Marco in Florence. The first joyful mystery of the angel Gabriel's visit to Mary to share miraculous news.

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Something Franciscan - The specifics of the early history of Francis' Third Order have been debated. Possibly the Third order began in the Italian town of Cannara around 1221, with its first followers being called the Brothers and Sisters of Penance. In the Thirteenth Century the "Penitents" were also referred to as "Tertiaries". Over time the Third Order differentiated between "Seculars" and "Regulars". In 1883 the Third Order Seculars received a new rule, which was superseded by a 1978 revised "Rule of the Secular Franciscan Order", which is followed today. The abbreviated "OFS" title of Secular Franciscans stands for the Latin phrase "Ordo Franciscanus Saecularis". The order consists of Catholic men and women who seek to observe the Gospel of Jesus by following the example of Francis of Assisi.

Pax et bonum.

Assisi 2020 - VIII

This is the eighth in a series of posts sharing information and perspectives on the lives of Saints Francis and Clare, life in Assisi and seeking to follow Franciscan values in today's world.

Gospel Quote - Matthew 17:20.  "Amen, I say to you, if you have faith as tiny as a mustard seed, you will be able to say to this mountain: 'Move from here to there,' and it will move. Nothing will be impossible for you."  It's easy to overlook the power of faith, hope and love during challenging times. Alone one may feel helpless, but one need not be alone.

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Umbrian Adventure - High on the side of Mount Subasio, above the Eremo delle Carceri, rests a hill named Calle San Rufino. Hidden from view of those passing by is a makeshift shrine. The following notes are from visits there over the past several years.
The trek back down from the summit included crossing over the top of Colle San Rufino and revisiting an interesting, unmarked location carved into the rocky hillside, that some person or persons years ago transformed into a rough shrine. Here are a few pictures, the first looking down from above.

Next from the side.

Here are some closer pictures, starting with a partial manger scene.

Another manger scene, sheltered by plastic.

 Two venerated saints.

A quote (trans: Two things in the world will never abandon you: the eye of God that always sees you, the heart of the Mother that always follows you) and a cross.

Saint Catherine of Siena.

The Basilica of Saint Francis in Assisi.

Here's a closer look at a couple of tiles, the right one including the Canticle of the Creatures in Italian.

Finally, one of many nice messages.

"Who gives, gives to God."
With inspiring views of Subasio above and the valley below, Colle San Rufino is a special place to visit.

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Reflections - The Gospel quote above brought to mind a story told in Venice. I've written in the past about a lovely girl named Contessa Tagliapietra, who was born in 1288 and died after a long illness in 1308. Her family lived in Campo San Vio, along the Grand Canal. Contessa, whose royal-sounding name was attributed to her family's role in a war with Genoa, was very devout as a child. She would often cross the Grand Canal in a gondola to pray in the Church of San Maurizio, located on the opposite side. As she grew older, her father became concerned that his daughter might be too devout, which could impact the marriage he hoped for her. Unable to dissuade her from her frequent trips to the Church of San Maurizio, he finally instructed all of the nearby gondoliers to refuse to transport her.

The next time that she set out to cross the Grand Canal to pray, every gondolier she approached denied her request for a ride. Finally, she went to the edge of the canal, took a linen cloth and, stretching it out on the water, stepped onto it and floated across.

For centuries Contessa's story has been the subject of studies and debates on miracles and myths, cults and devotions. For a long time Venetian mothers would set their infants over the entombed remains of Contessa, praying for their safety in avoiding drowning in the canals. 

Apparently no proof was ever been found of a miracle having occurred.

On the other hand, if Contessa had faith as tiny as a mustard seed....

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Something Franciscan - Within Assisi's walls there are treasures most visitors never see.  First, one would need to know they existed; then, one would need to know if, when and how they might be accessed. One of them is the beautiful small 14th Century Church, or Oratory, of San Vitale, atop a flight of stairs accessed by passing through an often closed wooden door.

Another is the 13th Century Church of Sant'Andrea, under the care of an order of Franciscan nuns. Then, close by the Piazza del Comune, there is the 11th Century Church of San Paolo, maintained by one of Assisi's confraternities, with its art treasures.
Also from the 11th Century is the Church of San Giacomo di Murorupto (Saint James of the Broken Wall - a reference to an old broken wall in the area.) This, too, is under the care of Franciscan nuns, and requires permission to visit.

Francis may well have prayed in the latter two Churches.

Pax et bonum.