Assisi 2020 - IV

This is the fourth in a series of posts sharing information and perspectives on the lives of Saints Francis and Clare, life in Assisi and seeking to follow Franciscan values in today's world.

Gospel Quote - Matthew 5:3.  Blessed are the poor in spirit, for theirs is the kingdom of heaven. 

Jesus' first words to His disciples from the Sermon on the Mount.

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Umbrian Adventures - This post, updated from May of last year, describes visiting the Eremo delle Carceri, on  Mount Subasio.

The Eremo delle Carceri (Hermitage of the Prisons) is a beautiful forested area on the side of Mount Subasio where Francis and his early followers went to pray in silence. Like hermits in earlier centuries, they would retire into tiny caves, or "prisons", to spend quiet time in contemplation. Following the time of Francis, the hermitage building was expanded, while the surrounding forest remains a place of peaceful trails, small caves and natural beauty. The Eremo is a popular destination for Assisi visitors. Often, by midday, the area outside the entrance gate is crowded with parked cars, taxis and small buses, while many more are hiking the two-plus mile steadily uphill road from Assisi. At such times, while inside is still a peaceful place, the Eremo paths tend not to be quite as tranquil.

For those seeking something closer to what Francis experienced, there's an early morning  alternative for visiting. If you set out from Assisi's Porta Cappuccini around 6:00 a.m. and start walking up the road at a moderate pace, it takes only about an hour to reach the Eremo entrance gate. Carry water. On the upper part of the road, there are three switchbacks, the first of which is just over halfway there. (Those unable to make the vigorous uphill climb may want to arrange for an early morning - about 6:50 a.m. - taxi ride from town.)

Upon arrival, the gate should be open, with few if any people about. Walk through and continue along the path to the hermitage building. If it is before 7:10 a.m., you may have arrived in time for morning prayers with the friars and nuns who live at the hermitage. If it's a bit later, morning Mass begins at 7:30 a.m.

Proceed down the walkway and through the door.

From this point on, no cameras, no pets, no phones, no food and drink, and no noise. In a word, silence. Just to your right, as you enter onto a small piazza, there is an entry to a hallway. At the end of the hallway is a small church, built into the side of Mount Subasio, with rock actually projecting into the nave area. Here, the six or seven Franciscan occupants of the Eremo, plus any early morning visitors, celebrate Mass in an intimate and inspiring setting. Don't hesitate to enter when Mass is about to begin, as those inside are very welcoming.

After Mass, you may continue through hermitage rooms and stairways, past settings from centuries past, coming out onto the forest trails. Now, on most days at this hour, you may find a path to walk and pray in silence, with few if any other persons about.

In prior posts I've quoted French philosopher Simone Weil, writing about her visit to Assisi in the 1930's, descriptive words worth repeating,“When I got to Assisi, Milan, Florence, Rome and all the rest completely disappeared from my memory, so captivated was I by the gentle landscape, so miraculously evangelical and Franciscan, by the delightful churches, by a wealth of happy memories and by those noble examples of humanity- the Umbrian country folk, rich in beauty, physical strength, joy and kindness. Little had I dreamt such a marvelous place existed. I would have stayed for the rest of my life – if only women were accepted - at the tiny monastery of the Carceri, an hour and fourteen minutes walk up the mountainside from Assisi. No more heavenly and tranquil sight exists than Umbria as seen from up there. Saint Francis certainly knew how to choose the most ravishing spots to practice poverty: He was far from being an ascetic….”

Finally, if by mid-morning you are not quite ready to return to town, more trails and natural wonders await on Mount Subasio.

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Reflections - Simone Weil also thoughtfully observed,"One cannot imagine Saint Francis of Assisi talking about rights." How is it that one of the most caring souls who ever lived, who gave away all he had to the poor, who loved society's outcasts and embraced lepers, was not an outspoken advocate for human rights? How is it that he begged goodness from others rather than demanding respect and equality? Why did he choose a different path than so many other famous leaders and promoters of social change? Perhaps Saint Francis humbly realized that the rights established by a society, good or otherwise, are temporary, worldly values, a reflection of fallible human efforts, not to be confused with one's obligations in a deeper, more-personal relationship with God. To Saint Francis, societal rights would be secondary to God's all-encompassing love for humanity, and would gain or lose merit within the context of our true calling to love everyone, including our enemies. The humility of Saint Francis suggests we have few inherent rights beyond the perfect freedom to love, a right given to us through God’s infinite mercy. In the end, souls are not saved through the establishment of societal standards, but through love.In a world of jumbled demands for conflicting rights, Catholics are wise to focus, as Saint Francis did, on God's call to love everyone, especially the least among us. There is a beautiful consistency in the message that all life is precious. All justifications for war, exploitation, abortion, capital punishment, and other forms of violence crumble before the humble belief that each and every soul is a special creation of God. And there is a true fairness and equality in an ethic based not on the latest trends or opinion polls, but on a divine message as old as mankind. For the humble, the right that matters most is the right to love, a right society has the ability neither to impart nor to take away. (adapted from a 2012 essay in U.S. Catholic Online)

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Something Franciscan - Earlier I wrote about Dante Alighieri as one of history's third order Franciscans. Others include Michelangelo, King Louis IX of Francis, Queen Elizabeth of Hungary, Joan of Arc, King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella of Spain, Christopher Columbus, St. Thomas More, Franz Liszt, Louis Pasteur, and Arlo Guthrie. It is heartening to consider that each, regardless of earthly notoriety or fame, sought in their life to follow the humble Poverello of Assisi.

Pax et bonum.

Assisi 2020 - III

This is the third in a series of posts sharing information and perspectives on the lives of Saints Francis and Clare, life in Assisi and seeking to follow Franciscan values in today's world.

Gospel Quote - Matthew 5: 43-45. "You have heard that it was said: 'You shall love your neighbor and hate your enemy.' But I say to you: Love your enemies and pray for those who persecute you. This will make you children of your heavenly Father."

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Umbrian Adventures - This post, updated from March 2014, shares a little about an Italian ghost town, with its own frescos....

Deep in the forest on the Spello side of Mount Subasio, unmarked by any signs and accessible only by a narrow path, lies the remains of a town called Gabbiano Vecchio (Old Seagull). I've posted about it in the past and revisited it on a recent hike. Thus far, I've been able to discover little of the history of Gabbiano Vecchio. What remains are parts of a few structures, the gem of which is the Chiesa di Sant'Antonio (Church of Saint Anthony). I'm told by an art historian that the frescos within are likely 17th Century. The church is in a time of decay, so its treasures may not not be around much longer. Here's Gabbiano Vecchio, as seen from the forest.

Approaching the church.

The altar area.

Saint Anthony, and likely Saint Clare.

The dilapidated ceiling.

A word of advice to any hikers: there are poisonous viper snakes in this area. I've never seen one, but it would be wise to avoid stepping or reaching into dark places or dense growth. With an ounce of caution you should have no problems.
2020 update - Have since learned that Gabbiano Vecchio still had residents early in the Twentieth Century, and have seen data from a census conducted a century prior. A few years ago the Chiesa di Sant'Antonio was secured, so access to the frescos now probably requires permission from the current landowner. Unknown if the roof has been repaired.

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Reflections - The following words of Francis of Assisi are from The First Version of the Letter to the Faithful. This document is considered of importance in the initial creation of Francis' third order, the Brothers and Sisters of Penance, from which blossomed today's Secular Franciscan Order.

"1. All those who love the Lord with their whole heart, with their whole soul and mind, with their whole strength (cf. Mk 12:30) and love their neighbors as themselves (cf. Mt 22:39) 2. and hate their bodies with their vices and sins, 3. and receive the Body and Blood of our Lord Jesus Christ, 4. and produce worthy fruits of penance: 5. Oh, how happy and blessed are these men and women when they do these things and persevere in doing them...."

In a world with ever changing norms and values, the above words, based on the Gospels, remain as remarkably poignant, timely and inspiring as when they were written over eight hundred years ago. Like sunlight streaming through a clouded sky.

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Something Franciscan - Benedetto Sinigardi (1190-1282) heard Francis of Assisi speak in the main square of Arezzo in the year 1211. He chose to become a Franciscan, and in time Fra Benedetto di Arezzo served in Turkey, Greece, Romania and the Holy Land. Fra Benedetto is remembered as the author of a special prayer, The Angelus.

The Angelus (1857-1859) - Jean-Francois Millet - Musee d'Orsay

Pax et bonum.

Assisi 2020 - II

This is the second in a series of posts sharing information and perspectives on the lives of Saints Francis and Clare, life in Assisi and seeking to follow Franciscan values in today's world.

Gospel Quote - Luke 12: 34. For where your treasure is, there will your heart also be. 

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Umbrian Adventures - This post, updated from March 2016, shares some background on a small Assisi church.

Today I stopped by the Church of Santo Stefano, which was built in the year 1166, not many years before the birth of Saint Francis. The facade of this church has changed little over eight centuries; the photo below is basically what Francis would have seen. The church was built by and for the working people of Assisi. It's plain in appearance, but clearly well-constructed.

The inside has been carefully remodeled, but retains much of the original materials, design and spirit. In the front of the photo below is the baptismal font. Portions of frescos remain on the left wall. On Sundays, neighborhood residents gather for mass here, celebrated by a Franciscan priest.

The stone wall that winds above Santo Stefano is a nice place to rest on a sunny day. Legend has it that the evening Saint Francis passed from this life to the next, the bells of Santo Stefano, seen in the center, spontaneously began to ring.

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Reflections - Many American Catholics are familiar with the works and writings of Dorothy Day, who helped found the Catholic Worker Movement. Day, in turn, was close to Jacques and Raissa Maritain, influential French writers and converts to Catholicism. Jacques Maritain brought life and depth to the discipline of Philosophy through the teachings of Saint Thomas Aquinas. Jacques and Raissa found their way to Catholicism by way of a French writer named Leon Bloy, whom they befriended early in their careers.
Leon Bloy lived in poverty and tended to be harshly critical of others, leaving him less than popular in some circles. He wrote a novel, The Woman Who Was Poor, that tells the story of Clotilde, a woman who was born into poverty, was abused in her childhood, and suffered numerous misfortunes, including loss of her child, her husband, and a person who treated her kindly. (Her story is so unrelentingly harsh, I've been reluctant to even recommend the book to others, despite a beautiful underlying theme.) Regardless of all of her suffering, Clotilde remains faithful to God.
Is there a Franciscan theme to this story? Yes.
First, near the end of the novel, Bloy writes of Clotilde, almost in passing, "A Tertiary of Saint Francis, she has just finished reading the Office of Our Lady by the last declining rays of daylight, and now she is thinking of God and listening to 'the sweet footfalls of night.'"
More important are the last words of Clotilde, "There is only one misery, and that is not to be saints." Clotilde's worldly poverty not only reflects choices made by Francis and Clare, she also realizes that there is no human pursuit so precious as saving souls. This is a very Franciscan message, a message of deep and eternal love.

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Something Franciscan - Below Assisi sits the town of Santa Maria degli Angeli, home to one of the small churches Francis repaired. This one, called the Porziuncola (Little Portion) or, more formally, Saint Mary of the Angels, dates back to the Fourth Century, when it was constructed by traveling hermits from the Middle East. During Francis' lifetime, it became the center of Franciscan life. The Porziuncola now sits inside the large Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli, where it continues to be a principal Franciscan gathering place.

In 1769, a Spanish Franciscan missionary in California came across a river and named it after this Franciscan landmark, and a town grew up there that was aptly (if not concisely) given the Spanish name El Pueblo de Nuestra Senora La Reina de Los Angeles de Porciuncola (the town of Our Lady the Queen of the Angels of the Porziuncola). As time went by, people started shortening the name of their town, until it finally was honed down to... Los Angeles.
A couple of other California cities seem to have similar Franciscan origins, they being Santa Clara (Saint Clare) and, of course, San Francisco.

Pax et bonum

Assisi 2020 - I

This is the first in a series of posts sharing information and perspectives on the lives of Saints Francis and Clare, life in Assisi, and seeking to follow Franciscan values in today's world.

Gospel Quote - Luke 8: 22-25. One day, Jesus got into a boat with his disciples and said to them, "Let us cross over to the other side of the lake." And so they set forth, and as they sailed he fell asleep. Then a windstorm swept down on the lake. As a result, the boat was becoming filled with water, and they were in danger. So they went to him and awakened him, saying "Master! Master! We are perishing!"
Then he awakened and rebuked the wind and the turbulent waves. They subsided and there was calm. He said to them, "Where is your faith?"
Faith is a wonderful gift, especially in times of danger and uncertainty.

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Umbrian Adventures - Since travel has been postponed by the coronavirus, this section will share stories from years past. In April 2013, while wandering about the rugged countryside northeast of Mount Subasio....

It was at this point that I came across one of those gems one sometimes encounters in rural Umbria. Next to the road was a small chapel dedicated to Saint Leonard of Noblac, also known as Saint Leonard of Limonges, with the location of this particular chapel resulting in it being named San Leonardo Montarelle.

Who was San Leonardo? He was a noble Fifth and Sixth Century Frenchman who converted to Christianity in the year 496. He gave up power and authority, except for a right to free worthy prisoners, which he gained a reputation for doing. He then became a hermit, lived in the forest and founded an abbey. In the Twelfth Century, San Leonardo became very popular throughout Western Europe, with at least 177 churches dedicated to him. In Italy alone over 200 places bear his name, including this little chapel.

According to a nearby sign, "Popular tradition decrees that the oil used to light the lamp opposite the altar in the chapel could cure 'bone aches'", and San Leonardo "has been the patron of woodland, prisoners, miners and pregnant women." An interesting combination. An internet check confirmed his patronage also includes captives and horses. Although the chapel seen here is fairly new, there are nearby ruins and documentation of a church at this location in the year 1354. Apparently at one point it was decorated with frescos. In the front windows of the current chapel are some votive candles with images of Padre Pio on them.

I don't want to leave the little chapel of San Leonardo Montarelle without sharing a story. You may assume it fiction, unless it is not. According to a writer at a site near Assisi (Brigolante Guest Apartments), legend has it there once was a farmer named Rufinetto who would pass the San Leonardo chapel each day on his way to town, and would ask San Leonardo for permission to remove one penny from the offerings there for his daily cigar. Interpreting silence as implied consent, Rufinetto would pick up a penny and continue on to town for his cigar. Word got out about the farmer's habit and eventually one of his neighbors decided to hide behind the chapel. When Rufinetto stopped in and politely asked San Leonardo for a penny for his daily cigar, a voice responded with a resounding, "No!" A worried Rufinetto hastened away, concerned at how ornery San Leonardo had become.

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Reflections - When Saint Francis was young he was deathly afraid of lepers. He would go to great lengths to avoid having any contact with them. However, as his faith grew, one day he encountered a leper along the road. Suddenly, he felt compelled to stop trying to escape, to embrace the leper and to help him. As soon as he had done so, he felt the peace and joy of a person who has served Jesus.
Francis placed himself at risk, as leprosy was both contagious and deadly. However, he realized the life of his soul was more important.
One might well ask during this time of coronavirus, also contagious and deadly, does this mean we are to take unnecessary risks?
The essence of Francis' important transformation was not risk-taking, but loving and overcoming fear. What mattered most was that he chose to start loving and caring for persons with leprosy, as opposed to having nothing to do with them.
So it should be with us. While being cautious to not spread the deadly virus, we should make a strong effort, through our prayers, involvement and works of charity, to ensure those at-risk of or suffering from the coronavirus are receiving the loving care they need. And we should pray for and be supportive of those on the front lines, who indeed are risking their lives in service, often in the spirit of Saints Francis and Clare.

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Something Franciscan - According to tradition, the Italian poet Dante Alighieri was a third order Franciscan. He was educated in the Franciscan school in the Santa Croce church in Florence, and was buried in a Franciscan church in Ravenna. His daughter became a Franciscan nun. What did he have to say about Francis? This excerpt from the Divine Comedy, Paradiso, Canto XI (Longfellow trans.) conveys a part of what Dante shared. It's a little long, but it takes us from Francis' love of Poverty, through his life, to today's followers of Francis. (notes: Bernard, Giles and Sylvester were among Francis' earliest followers. Peter Bernardone was his earthly father. Innocent and Honorius were popes. An archimandrite is the head of a monastery. "Sultan" refers to Al-Kamil, the Muslim ruler who Francis sought to convert during the Fifth Crusade.)

But that too darkly I may not proceed,
  Francis and Poverty for these two lovers
  Take thou henceforward in my speech diffuse.
Their concord and their joyous semblances,
  The love, the wonder, and the sweet regard,
  They made to be the cause of holy thoughts;
So much so that the venerable Bernard
  First bared his feet, and after so great peace
  Ran, and, in running, thought himself too slow.
O wealth unknown! O veritable good!
  Giles bares his feet, and bares his feet Sylvester
  Behind the bridegroom, so doth please the bride!
Then goes his way that father and that master,
  He and his Lady and that family
  Which now was girding on the humble cord;
Nor cowardice of heart weighed down his brow
  At being son of Peter Bernardone,
  Nor for appearing marvellously scorned;
But regally his hard determination
  To Innocent he opened, and from him
  Received the primal seal upon his Order.
After the people mendicant increased
  Behind this man, whose admirable life
  Better in glory of the heavens were sung,
Incoronated with a second crown
  Was through Honorius by the Eternal Spirit
  The holy purpose of this Archimandrite.
And when he had, through thirst of martyrdom,
  In the proud presence of the Sultan preached
  Christ and the others who came after him,
And, finding for conversion too unripe
  The folk, and not to tarry there in vain,
  Returned to fruit of the Italic grass,
On the rude rock 'twixt Tiber and the Arno
  From Christ did he receive the final seal,
  Which during two whole years his members bore.
When He, who chose him unto so much good,
  Was pleased to draw him up to the reward
  That he had merited by being lowly,
Unto his friars, as to the rightful heirs,
  His most dear Lady did he recommend,
  And bade that they should love her faithfully;
And from her bosom the illustrious soul
  Wished to depart, returning to its realm,
  And for its body wished no other bier.
Think now what man was he, who was a fit
  Companion over the high seas to keep
  The bark of Peter to its proper bearings.
And this man was our Patriarch; hence whoever
  Doth follow him as he commands can see
  That he is laden with good merchandise.

Pax et bonum.

Assisi Postings

The Covid-19 pandemic has disrupted life worldwide, with Italy being one of the earliest and most severely impacted countries. As I write, the daily new cases in Italy have begun to level off and perhaps diminish, although the road ahead remains long and challenging. Please keep the Italian people in your prayers, as a loving and merciful God listens to our pleas.
Usually this time of year I'm posting from Assisi, with stories about her spiritual life, art, history, cuisine, and hiking and exploring Umbria. Now I write from California, "socially distanced", as advised, with postponed travel plans.
However, one need not be physically in Assisi to be there in heart and spirit, praying for friends and reflecting on the lives of Francis and Clare.
Rather than settle for being "geographically distanced", I've decided to resume some Assisi postings, sharing past and new stories and thoughts.
Writing in the spirit of Francis requires an ongoing awareness of the joys and blessings of life, even during the most difficult of times. While deeply concerned for everyone's physical well-being, in the words of an Assisi friend, "What matters is the health of the soul."  His words serve as a reminder of what is most important, and where true peace is to be found.
Each post may contain a gospel quote for reflection, a story from past Assisi travels, thoughts to ponder from a Franciscan perspective on literature, the media or current events, and perhaps some information about past and current followers of Saints Francis and Clare. Hope you will join me; please keep me in your prayers. Grazie.