Assisi Diary - Day 9 - Rocca Maggiore

On this pleasant, sunny day I walked up to the Rocca Maggiore, the fortress that sits atop the rise that is Assisi on the side of Mount Subasio.  Naturally, or unnaturally, the Rocca has a long military history, which I won't go into here.  It has been around for well over 800 years, in various states of repair and disrepair, being added onto over the centuries to fortify its protection of or dominion over Assisi.
But there not appearing to be any imminent invasions, today was a day for enjoying the views.
Here's what the Rocca looks like from a garden area inside the walls.

Next is, well, not really much of a view.  The interior circular stairs up a tower are shaped like wedges of cheese.

Here's looking out from atop a fortress wall.

And here's the view looking down on the Basilica of Saint Francis.

Below appear invading forces, momentarily disarmed by the spell of a Spring day.

Looking out over Assisi to Santa Maria degli Angeli.

Finally, through a hole in the Rocca wall, looking down on the Basilica of Saint Clare.

Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 8 - More About Town

Saw friends off to Rome today and spent much of the day taking care of odds and ends.  Went to the fruit and vegetable market and picked up lettuce, a tomato, two apples and a banana for under 2 euro.  Later went for a stroll and took a few pictures.  Here's the remains of a fresco on a building which, in part, dates back to Roman times.  For a while it was a church, but is no longer.

Next is the fountain in the Piazza del Comune, with local bird in flight.

Here's the front of San Stefano, a church built in 1166, less than 20 years before Francis was born.  It was built by the working classes, and the facade appears pretty much the same today as it did back then.

 Here is some pretty stonework on the outside of the apse of San Stefano.

Here's a remaining segment of another fresco on a main street through town.

And some trees behind a wall.

Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 7 - About Town

Today included a pleasant spring walk up to the Rocca Maggiore, a very old fortress that was built and torn down and rebuilt over the centuries.  We went up there for the views.  At the time of Francis' birth, occupying forces controlled the Rocca.  As a youth, he may well have had a role in tearing it down when the townspeople of Assisi rebelled against outside authorities.  It was built again about a century and a half later, and off and on for centuries was a strategic outpost.  Finally, during the 1800's, rumors of treasures led the townspeople to do some ransacking.  Today, a substantial part of the fortress remains and can be explored for a modest admission fee.  Fortunately, the Rocca no longer serves a military purpose, as thick and high stone walls don't provide quite the security they once did.  Here's a picture of Assisi looking down from the path up to the Rocca.

We explored other parts of Assisi, as well, including Francis' boyhood home, at least according to tradition, which now has a church built over it.
One meets interesting people here.  There is a gentleman who occasionally sits on the front step of my apartment to eat his lunch.  His name is Massimo, he was born in Foligno (where Francis sold his father's cloths), he belongs to a group that aspire to follow Saint Benedict, and he goes about barefoot and in a sackcloth.  Perhaps the best I can describe the sackcloth is to say it seems very much like a large converted burlap bag.  Massimo speaks English fairly well, is an interesting conversationalist, and has a cheerful smile.  I was asked by someone if it bothered me to have him sitting on my steps.  I laughed and replied, "This is Assisi!  It would bother me if it bothered me to have him sitting on my steps."

Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 6 - The Porziuncola

Rising earlier now.  After breakfast went into town to pick up some fresh bread.  Mid-morning walked with friends down to Santa Maria degli Angeli so they could see the Porziuncola (a word meaning "small portion").  This tiny church, home to Saint Francis in the latter years of his life and where his followers would gather, now sits inside a very large church.  Generally it seems the Porziuncola (the original "Santa Maria degli Angeli") is recognized as being a gem, while the church built around it is recognized as being, well, big.  There is some beautiful artwork around the main altar and in some side chapels, but much of the three naves are not decorated, and the exterior of the church perhaps lacks some of the architectual attractiveness of many Italian churches.  However, still, if large is impressive, then it is impressive.
The interior of the Porziuncola, on the other hand, has seating for approximately 14-16 individuals.  Once again, the humble Francis shines through.  Inside seems a special, sacred place.  I watched one young man press what appeared to be a gift bag against the inner wall, against a stone perhaps put in place by Francis.  I can hardly imagine what was in the bag or who it was for, but the recipient will likely receive a gift wrapped in a prayer.
Francis was intent on not owning property.  He loved poverty.  He named his brothers "Friars Minor", a diminutive term.  Many of his followers loved poverty, although other well-intentioned ones perhaps felt great and glorious structures were the best way to honor this humble beggar.  I think Francis knew that the most magnificent structures men could build pale in comparison to his beautiful message, or even to a single act of love.
Before walking out of the large church, I noticed an elderly woman raise up a camera to take a photograph.  An usher was quickly at her side, telling her picture taking is not allowed.  She asked if she could just take one.  His answer was no.  The rule is understandable, as many in the church were engaged in prayer.  Yet, it would have been nice for her.
Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 5 - The Eremo and Subasio

This was a day on the mountain. I hiked with friends up to the Eremo delle Carceri, a hidden retreat on Mount Subasio dating back to early Christian times.  This is where Francis and some of his closest followers used to go to pray in simple, primitive caves.  While the Eremo has expanded some over the centuries, it remains a beautiful, peaceful place.  After visiting here in the 1930's, Simone Weil wrote, "Little had I dreamt that such a marvellous place existed.  I would have stayed for the rest of my life - if only women were accepted - at the tiny monastery of the Carceri, an hour and fourteen minutes walk up the mountainside from Assisi.  No more heavenly and tranquilizing sight exists than Umbria as seen from up there.  St. Francis certainly knew how to choose the most ravishing spots in which to practice poverty:  He was far from being an ascetic...."

From there we continued up to the summit of the mountain.  We were rewarded with magnificent Umbrian views.  But the tiny signs of spring were just as wonderful.

On the way back down, we stopped at a secluded place I discovered a couple of years ago off on a rise named Colle San Rufino, higher up than the Eremo delle Carceri.  Here among abandoned ruins, over many years, visitors had created a kind of shrine, just by leaving small icons or pictures or words.

One example:

The words mean, I think, "Who gives, gives to God."

As it is late, I'll leave you with a cute if not existential sign from a path at the Eremo.

Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 4 - Visiting Churches

Still sleeping in late, but doing a little better each day.  Assisi is so beautiful for morning walks that if I'm not up by 6:00, I feel I'm missing something.  Today my friends and I visited three churches.  Late morning we went down to San Damiano, the first church Saint Francis rebuilt and the home of Saint Clare for many years thereafter.

What Francis rebuilt was much smaller than what you see here.  The main entrance of his church was the wooden doors with the circular window up above.  During the time Clare lived there with her followers a dormitory was added over the church. 
Next we visited the very simple and beautiful San Stefano Church, built by the working people of Assisi about 1166, or less than 20 years before Francis was born.  Legend has it that the bells of San Stefano range spontaneously when Francis died some distance away.

Finally, we went to the huge Basilica of Saint Francis, with its wonderful Giotto frescoes, its remarkable portrait of Francis by Cimabue, its many finely decorated chapels and its solemn crypt, where Francis now rests in peace.
What would Francis think of these three inspiring places?  We know he was pleased that San Damiano would serve as a home for Clare and her followers in service to God.  We can guess that this humble servant of God would not have been happy to have a very grand basilica dedicated in his name.  But I suspect seeing San Stefano, not much changed after 800 years, might bring a tear of joy.  Eight centuries of simple and sincere devotion by many generations of his townspeople would mean more to Francis, I think, than glorious fine art or grand cathedrals.
Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 3 - A Good Meal

This will be a short post at the end of a long but good day.  Friends, on their first trip to Italy, were coming by train after taking in the wonders of Florence.  The train station for Assisi is in Santa Maria degli Angeli, a couple of miles from here.  I decided to walk down early and do some grocery shopping, then welcome them and ride back up with them on a local bus.  All went smoothly.  Once they were settled in at a convent, Saint Anthony's Guest House, we set out to explore some of Assisi.  One might have trouble imagining anything comparable to the art treasures of Florence; however, Assisi's treasures are special in a different way, as anyone moved by seeing, for example, the San Damiano Cross can relate.  We dined at I Monaci, a local restaurant with a wood-fired pizza oven.  I had a vegetarian pizza that had on it, among other tasty things, unpitted olives.  But the pizza was excellent, and the company even better.  A fine meal shared with friends at the end of a good day.

Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 2 - A Walk Through Town

After catching up on sleep I rose late today.  Walked to Franco's Market for some fresh bread.  The main street seemed less crowded than usual for a Saturday in May, although there still were plenty of visitors about.  Of the millions who visit Assisi each year, most are here for but a day and seem to stay on or very close to the main road that connects the basilicas of Saints Francis and Clare.  Today I decided to walk that road, perhaps a mile or so.  If you were to arrive on a tour bus, as many do, you might then enter on foot through Porta Nuova on the east end of town.

It might be said that Assisi is a prototype "gated community", perhaps understandable when the unwelcome visitors tended to be of a marauding barbarian nature.  The road ahead would take you past a newer section of town, only several hundred years old.

At the end of this section of road, you would pass under another gate.  Each gate was added as Assisi grew, so as one approaches the older center of town, one passes under older gates.  To the left you would see the rear apse portion of the Basilica of Saint Clare, along with its campanile, or bell tower, the highest in Assisi.

Passing through the second gate, you would come around to the front of the Basilica with its simple facade and impressive pink Subasio stone and butresses.

Off to the south you would have beautiful views.

Then you would pas through a third gate into the center of town.

Among this days tourists today are some young scouts with cute beetle hats.

Along many parts of the main road are shops selling everything from fine art to junk trinkets, from beautifully embroidered linens to religious momentos, and food, including wonderful pastries.  Sometimes these categories overlap, and you can end up with, for example, fine religious pastries.

You would pass by pretty walkways.

And finally come to the fountain at the Piazza del Commune, the center of town.  (I live near the top of the steps in the middle of the picture.)

Passing through the Piazza you would see the two thousand year old columns of what was a Roman temple, dedicated to Minerva.

The road narrows.  You would pass many more shops.  This one has nice linens.

Oops, back a little ways is a place specializing in merangues.

Didn't want you to miss that.  You would also find yourself passing by some beautiful architecture.

With a careful eye, you might detect a faded treasure from centuries past.

Glancing to the side you might notice why some people do not just wander off the main road.

Soon the Basilica of Saint Francis would come into view, or at least the upper church.

Here's another view.

So, having reached this end of town, you would have seen most of what most visitors see, but also would hardly have begun to discover all of Assisi's many treasures.  Today there might have been a thousand visitors on the main road through town, but as I returned most of the way home along other walkways I encountered but one other person

Had pizza for lunch at an old favorite place.  Tonight I'm hoping to attend a vigil mass at San Rufino.  Then it will be time to finish catching up on sleep, as the weather forecast looks good for adventures in the days ahead. 

Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 1 - Arrival

Buon Giorno:
Just as the first floor of an Italian hotel is found on the second level, my first post comes on the second day.  It's a beautiful Umbrian spring morning.  The hills are in bloom; the temperature will climb to about 70, with much sunshine.  Geographically, Assisi sits part way up Mount Subasio, offering wonderful views of farmlands, orchards and distant Italian towns.  It spirit she sits somewhere just above earth, slightly closer to heaven.

Being here makes yesterday's 26 hours of travel all worthwhile.  You ask, how can a day have 26 hours?  Well, I suppose it was actually just two very long days running together, blended (or blurred) across many time zones.  It involved a car ride to the airport, two long flights and one shorter one, a train ride, a crowded tram ride, a short walk in Rome, a car ride from Rome to Assisi and, finally, climbing up about 54 steps to the apartment.

After settling in yesterday evening, with a good pasta dinner, sleep won out over posting a first entry. 

Speaking of pasta... the Italian word for cord or string is "spago".  For a narrower cord or piece of string, one would add a diminutive "etto".  But to keep the hard "g" sound in Italian, one must add an "h".  Thus, a single piece of string would be a "spaghetto".  But, what if you had in front of you a plate full of strings?  To indicate the plural, the "o" at the end of "spaghetto" would change to an "i", and you would have... a fine meal.

Ciao.