Wednesday, March 28, 2012

Assisi Diary - Day 6 - The Porziuncola

Rising earlier now.  After breakfast went into town to pick up some fresh bread.  Mid-morning walked with friends down to Santa Maria degli Angeli so they could see the Porziuncola (a word meaning "small portion").  This tiny church, home to Saint Francis in the latter years of his life and where his followers would gather, now sits inside a very large church.  Generally it seems the Porziuncola (the original "Santa Maria degli Angeli") is recognized as being a gem, while the church built around it is recognized as being, well, big.  There is some beautiful artwork around the main altar and in some side chapels, but much of the three naves are not decorated, and the exterior of the church perhaps lacks some of the architectual attractiveness of many Italian churches.  However, still, if large is impressive, then it is impressive.
The interior of the Porziuncola, on the other hand, has seating for approximately 14-16 individuals.  Once again, the humble Francis shines through.  Inside seems a special, sacred place.  I watched one young man press what appeared to be a gift bag against the inner wall, against a stone perhaps put in place by Francis.  I can hardly imagine what was in the bag or who it was for, but the recipient will likely receive a gift wrapped in a prayer.
Francis was intent on not owning property.  He loved poverty.  He named his brothers "Friars Minor", a diminutive term.  Many of his followers loved poverty, although other well-intentioned ones perhaps felt great and glorious structures were the best way to honor this humble beggar.  I think Francis knew that the most magnificent structures men could build pale in comparison to his beautiful message, or even to a single act of love.
Before walking out of the large church, I noticed an elderly woman raise up a camera to take a photograph.  An usher was quickly at her side, telling her picture taking is not allowed.  She asked if she could just take one.  His answer was no.  The rule is understandable, as many in the church were engaged in prayer.  Yet, it would have been nice for her.
Ciao.

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