East Venice Neighborhoods

The main "island" of Venice is actually some 118 islands connected by footbridges. People generally arrive on the west side, either by sea or by crossing a long bridge in a train or other vehicle. Cars, trucks and trains go no further than the western edge. As a result, the crowds are heavy near the bus and train stations, and remain heavy going eastward along the Grand Canal, all the way to Saint Mark's Square. Between Saint Mark's and the more eastern section of Castello where I'm staying, there are seven footbridges over canals. The first one becomes almost impassable at midday, as people vie for views of the Bridge of Sighs. The second and third also are very busy, but then the foot traffic starts to taper off, and by the time one crosses bridge number seven to reach Via Garibaldi, the danger of being swept away by massive tour groups is greatly diminished. Still further east is Sant' Elena, which is actually a part of Castello.
This post leaves behind the crowds to provide a glimpse of eastern Castello, a more residential part of Venice. However, it's not all residential. Close by where I'm staying is Arsenale, Venice's historic shipbuilding complex, started some nine centuries ago. It was the largest industrial complex anywhere before the industrial revolution. While its history of military might is long past, it still has an imposing main entrance.

Here's a closer view.

The Arsenale is just over a canal from the end of my alley. Going in that direction and then turning left to walk along the canal, one encounters this corner enterprise.

The local chapter of the Italian Communist Party. There appeared to be some type of social(ist?) event going on when I first noticed it. I snapped this picture, then had second thoughts, but decided my red day pack and Red Sox cap probably muddled any assumptions about where my sympathies might lie. Here's a second picture taken later. There's a Che Guevara poster inside, and there's also a nice shrine on the front wall. It may be that religious, social and political lines are drawn quite differently here than in the U.S.

Looking down on that same canal, a delivery boat is passing by.

Note, in the picture below, the fellow pushing a metal cart. There is a distinct and pleasant silence along most walkways due to the absence of cars, trucks and buses... and garbage trucks. When one does hear a loud rattling noise along one's alley, there's a good chance it's a trash pickup cart like the one this fellow is commandeering. People set out their trash in small plastic bags (no room for trash cans), and workers pass by picking up the neighborhood. Once the metal cart is full, the trash is transferred onto a canal barge for removal.

Moving east toward Sant' Elena, one sees a rare sight in much of Venice: trees!

And where there are parks, there are bound to be statues. Not sure who this is, but where other than Venice would the subject be astride a lion?

Looking back, it's about a mile to Saint Mark's.

In the Sant' Elena neighborhoods the absence of vehicle noise is even more noticeable. One can hear another person's footsteps a block away. There are some pretty buildings here.

 Many decorate the outside of their homes with flowers.

A corner fruit and vegetable stand.

One probably would not want to stay this far out without a vaporetto pass, as it's a good trek to get to many of the tourist destinations. However, to see where many locals live and to escape the crowds, Sant' Elena is a nice place for a walk. Finally, people are not the only ones to enjoy the tranquility of this end of Venice.

  Ciao.