Norcia

Traveling from Assisi to Norcia involved walking down to the Santa Maria degli Angeli train station to take a half hour train ride to Spoleto, and from there riding a bus for about an hour up a narrow, winding and scenic road. Norcia sits on a high plain by Sibillini Mountains National Park, a rugged and beautiful part of central Italy.

For many years, travelers to Norcia could look forward to visiting a well preserved Umbrian walled city with much history, perhaps most notably being the home of twin-sibling Saints Benedict and Scholastica, born in the year 480. However, in the summer and autumn of 2016, Norcia was struck by devastating earthquakes, resulting in extensive damage to the town. One need not even pass through one of Norcia's gates to begin to witness the impact of the quakes.

Prior to setting out, I had studied a map to determine, from the bus stop, which gate to enter and how to weave through Norcia's streets to the center of town where the remains of the Basilica of Saint Benedict are located. However, just inside the walls it became clear that the maze of old streets had become a complex entanglement of blockades.

Many streets, including all inside of this gate, were blocked on this day. Typically, signs would indicate a "Zona Rossa" or "Red Zone" with entry prohibited.

Even streets that appeared safe could have buildings in danger of falling. I walked back out onto the perimeter road and hiked up to and through a second gate. There too many streets were blocked. Seeking to find a way to the center of town, I stopped and asked a lady for directions. She pointed the way I was heading, but said one must be very careful because of falling debris. I thanked her and walked a bit further, to where two men were working. As there was a barrier across the road to prevent vehicle traffic, I asked them if I could pass through. Their response was an unequivocal "No."
Having reached a dead end, I started back up to the second gate, only to have the lady with whom I had spoken pull up in a car. After a moment's discussion she indicated that I should hop in and she would take me to where I could reach the main square.
We rode further around the perimeter road, past more scenes of loss, and finally came to a guarded but open gate and a main road leading directly to the main square. I thanked my guide for her help and kindness, got out and started along the street, one of the few places in town that seemed recovered enough for normal activity.

Ahead was a statue of Saint Benedict.

But also a disheartening scene.

While the facade of the Basilica of Saint Benedict remains standing, the church itself was mostly leveled.

The extensive staging may help in preserving the facade, but it is clear that rebuilding the Basilica will take years. Next to the remains of the Basilica is the Palazzo Comunale and bell tower, which also appears in a precipitous state.

As if losing a treasure like the Basilica of Saint Benedict wasn't enough, other churches in town also sustained major damage. Earlier, when going around the perimeter road, my helpful driver had pointed out the Church of San Giovanni, which turned out to be accessible via a few open streets.

Here, too, was a discouraging scene. There was a large hole in a side wall of the Church.

Despite so much devastation, the people of Norcia may pray thankfully, being spared loss of life as occurred in other nearby communities.

On the higher end of town, reconstruction and preservation efforts were underway on the Church of Saint Anthony. Heavy beams were being lifted into place.

The oldest structures in town seemed the hardest hit, likely due to less sturdy construction practices in centuries past. In a town where many residences also are centuries old, parts of homes were destroyed as well. One building that appeared to survive intact was the town theater.

Another interesting observation, while I'm not sure how the earthquakes impacted banks within Norcia's walls, now modular banking facilities have been set up in a parking lot outside of those walls.

I mentioned Norcia being by Sibillini Mountains National Park. There are beautiful views in all directions, and undoubtedly good hiking nearby.

Finally, who were Saints Scholastica and Benedict of Nursia? (Nursia was the Latin name of Norcia) Twins born in the Fifth Century, Benedict is perhaps best known for the Rule of Saint Benedict, guidelines for the monks who followed him and for many future religious orders, while Scholastica established the first Benedictine community for women. Benedict is considered the father of Western monasticism. Some seven centuries after the time of Benedict, his followers would be instrumental in turning over old churches to be repaired by a young man from Assisi named Francis.

As Benedict's legendary status seems to overshadow his sister's holy life, I was pleased to notice the name of the small square where I waited to start my return trip home.

Before leaving Norcia, I was speaking with a local and observed how, despite all of the destruction, it was still a beautiful town. He agreed, but wondered how much it mattered with all that had been lost and how community life had been impacted. Nevertheless, on this day Norcia edged one step forward on the long journey of recovery, and one could sense the faith and hope of its residents, still blessed from above.

Ciao.