Mass under the San Damiano Cross

Arriving a little early for this morning's 7:15 a.m. Mass in the Chapel of the Crucifix in the Basilica of Saint Clare, I found myself alone in prayer before the San Damiano Cross, below which Saint Francis heard a voice asking that he "rebuild my Church."

Actually, I wasn't entirely alone. Out of sight in the right transept the Poor Clares were singing their morning prayers. It is difficult to find words to describe the beauty, clarity and solemnity of the moment. As a Franciscan, it was time close to Francis and Clare. As a Catholic, a time of awareness of the intense, heavenly Love of our Father. As a person, a moment of appreciation of the sanctity of all humanity, and of knowing that God's Love will prevail over all that is misguided and evil in the world today.  

The San Damiano Cross speaks to us, as well. We, too, need to continually work to repair our lives and the Church of which we are a part, with the same humility and love as Francis and Clare.

Three other congregants arrived for Mass, an early start to a day filled with grace and blessings.

Peace and goodness be with you.

Visiting Assisi during the Coronavirus

As travel resumes around the world, questions abound about what's open, what's changed and what are the health safety rules. Here are a few tips and anecdotes from Assisi.

First, if one has an aversion to wearing masks, don't book a flight yet. Masks are required to enter Assisi churches, restaurants, shops... most every public indoor setting. It is not just a suggestion; if one enters a church without a mask on, one may expect to be stopped within seconds and shown the exit door.

Second, certain Masses may not yet be fully accessible to everyone, due to space limitations, keeping seating safely spaced in the churches.

Third, while certain businesses have closed, many excellent restaurants and gift shops remain open. Menu's may be a bit shorter, and seating either spread out or moved outdoors, but there are still plenty of good options.

Fourth, U.S. citizens may be required to show an I.D. and a white vaccination card to enter a restaurant.

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One recent morning the doors didn't even open for the early morning Mass at the Basilica of Saint Clare.

Thankfully, some waiting nuns quickly led the way to the nearby Church of San Quirico for a slightly later Mass.

On a Sunday, as the hour approached for the early Mass at the Basilica of Saint Clare (which is held in a chapel that is home to the San Damiano cross, and can seat perhaps 30-40 safely), a tour group of about 40-50 could be seen filing into the Church, then promptly filing back out. A few minutes later there was no problem entering solo.

Even at the Eremo della Carceri, on the side of Mount Subasio, where Francis and his early followers would go to pray, access to the small chapel for a morning Mass is restricted to a certain safe number. 

Thankfully, following an early morning hike, there was room for one more to join six priests/brothers, three nuns and three other lay people for Mass. 

As for dining, I've only been "white carded" at one restaurant thus far, that being I Monaci.

However, I Monaci's very excellent pizza made it well worthwhile.

The crowds that descend on Assisi around Easter seemed not quite as large this year, but still were substantial, keeping it a very busy place. 

Yet as busy as some days get, early morning walks here are nearly always tranquil and uncrowded.

Of the two gates in this photo, the newer, distant one is about 700 years old, whereas the older, closer one defined the city wall long before the time of Saint Francis.

For over two thousand years Assisi has survived everything from barbarian invasions to plagues (losing about half of its population to the Black Death in 1348). Her residents have been enduring a difficult time, as has much of Italy and the world. However, one can sense a combination of caution and resilience here, as they gradually reopen doors to a prayerful, hopeful and peace-seeking world.

Ciao.

Easter in Assisi 2022

After a three year hiatus, it is good to be back in Assisi. I arrived during Holy Week, and on Good Friday joined a procession through town, beginning at the Cathedral of San Rufino and ending at the Basilica of Saint Francis. The following photos are in front of the Basilica of Saint Clare. Assisi's Bishop Sorrentino took part in the walk.

In remembrance of Christ carrying the cross.

Several of Assisi's Confraternities joined in the procession.

While thousands gathered for Easter Sunday services in Assisi's Cathedral and two Basilicas, Francis might have appreciated the Easter Vigil Mass at the small neighborhood Church of Santa Margherita.

This church was built in 1246, while Clare was still alive; some early congregants likely knew the two saints. Since its beginning, it has been under the pastoral care of the Conventual Franciscan Friars of the Sacred Convent of Saint Francis. The altar table is made of the same stone that was once part of the original altar over the tomb of Saint Francis.

A small piazza in front of the church overlooks the Basilica of Saint Francis.

On a cool, windy night, about thirty persons were present for the Santa Margherita Easter Vigil service, several of whom were Franciscan priests, nuns, and at least one Third Order pilgrim. 

As midnight approached following the service, a bright moon shone over the home of Saints Francis and Clare.

La pace sia con te, e Buona Pasqua!

Peace be with you, and Happy Easter! 

Assisi 2022

After a three year absence, I'm planning to return to Assisi on April 13. Looking forward to being there for Easter, and hopefully doing some posting. Peace and goodness be with you!