Visiting Assisi during the Coronavirus

As travel resumes around the world, questions abound about what's open, what's changed and what are the health safety rules. Here are a few tips and anecdotes from Assisi.

First, if one has an aversion to wearing masks, don't book a flight yet. Masks are required to enter Assisi churches, restaurants, shops... most every public indoor setting. It is not just a suggestion; if one enters a church without a mask on, one may expect to be stopped within seconds and shown the exit door.

Second, certain Masses may not yet be fully accessible to everyone, due to space limitations, keeping seating safely spaced in the churches.

Third, while certain businesses have closed, many excellent restaurants and gift shops remain open. Menu's may be a bit shorter, and seating either spread out or moved outdoors, but there are still plenty of good options.

Fourth, U.S. citizens may be required to show an I.D. and a white vaccination card to enter a restaurant.

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One recent morning the doors didn't even open for the early morning Mass at the Basilica of Saint Clare.

Thankfully, some waiting nuns quickly led the way to the nearby Church of San Quirico for a slightly later Mass.

On a Sunday, as the hour approached for the early Mass at the Basilica of Saint Clare (which is held in a chapel that is home to the San Damiano cross, and can seat perhaps 30-40 safely), a tour group of about 40-50 could be seen filing into the Church, then promptly filing back out. A few minutes later there was no problem entering solo.

Even at the Eremo della Carceri, on the side of Mount Subasio, where Francis and his early followers would go to pray, access to the small chapel for a morning Mass is restricted to a certain safe number. 

Thankfully, following an early morning hike, there was room for one more to join six priests/brothers, three nuns and three other lay people for Mass. 

As for dining, I've only been "white carded" at one restaurant thus far, that being I Monaci.

However, I Monaci's very excellent pizza made it well worthwhile.

The crowds that descend on Assisi around Easter seemed not quite as large this year, but still were substantial, keeping it a very busy place. 

Yet as busy as some days get, early morning walks here are nearly always tranquil and uncrowded.

Of the two gates in this photo, the newer, distant one is about 700 years old, whereas the older, closer one defined the city wall long before the time of Saint Francis.

For over two thousand years Assisi has survived everything from barbarian invasions to plagues (losing about half of its population to the Black Death in 1348). Her residents have been enduring a difficult time, as has much of Italy and the world. However, one can sense a combination of caution and resilience here, as they gradually reopen doors to a prayerful, hopeful and peace-seeking world.

Ciao.