Before starting out, go to the information office at one end of Assisi's central Piazza del Comune and request a free map and a schedule (orario) of church services, which at least includes Mass times for larger churches.
1. Participate in the 9:00 a.m. Sunday Mass at the Church of Santo Stefano. This small neighborhood church, built about two decades before Francis was born, is a place where the saint likely prayed, being not far from his boyhood home. The facade of the Church looks much like it did eight centuries ago. Here, in the very heart of Assisi, one is close to her people, both present and past. On a recent Sunday, the service was being broadcast to share with those homebound during the pandemic.
2. Participate in a 7:15 a.m. weekday Mass under the original San Damiano Cross at the Basilica of Saint Clare. Join the Poor Clares (who are unseen in the right transept) for Mass following their morning prayers. The chapel is built over the foundation of the Church of Saint George, where Saint Francis went to school as a child, to the right of the main entrance in the picture below.
3. Join Franciscan priests, nuns and friars for the 7:15 a.m. weekday Mass in the Basilica of Saint Francis, surrounded by art and history, and before an altar resting over the tomb of Saint Francis. The lower church may be accessed by following the wide walkway down just to the left of the picture below.
4. Rather than filing through the crypt of Saint Francis' tomb with thousands later in the day, be there at 6:00 a.m., when the lower church opens, descend the stairs and join a handful of others in peaceful prayer.
5. Attend Sunday morning Mass at the lovely small neighborhood Church of Santa Margherita, located above and overlooking the Basilica of Saint Francis. This Franciscan church was built a couple of decades following the time of Francis. In the past, Mass has been at 10:00 a.m., but on a recent Sunday the service started earlier.
6. Attend the 6:00 p.m. Mass in the beautiful Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament in the Cathedral of San Rufino, located to the right as you enter the church. If there is singing, the sounds sometimes seem to echo off the ceiling, as if the congregation is being joined by angelic participants. Close by is the baptismal font of Francis and Clare.
7. Travel a couple of miles down the hill to Santa Maria degli Angeli to visit the Porziuncola, or "Little Portion" of Saint Francis, the home of his order, where he lived and prayed. It is a very small church located inside a very large basilica, not difficult to find. Crowded or not, it's a blessing to be able to spend a few moments in prayer inside the Little Portion.
Very close by is the location of the Transitus of Saint Francis, where he passed on to his eternal life. A beautiful painting suggests an image of the moment.8. From Assisi, walk down and visit the Church of San Damiano, which Saint Francis helped to rebuild, and walk through where Saint Clare and her first followers lived. If off to an early start, share in a 7:30 a.m. Mass there. The walk down and climb back up is fairly steep, affording more time for prayer and contemplation, not to mention exercise.
9. For the truly hardy, leave Assisi around 6:00 a.m., pass under Porta Cappuccini, and walk the Mount Subasio road up to the Eremo della Carceri, where Francis and his earliest followers used to go for quiet and prayer. There is a 7:30 a.m. Mass, and visitors are welcomed to join the Eremo's residents in prayer. The small chapel is actually built into the side of the mountain. It is a place of silence and beauty.
10. Finally, even on days when thousands of visitors are passing through Assisi, it is possible to walk quiet back streets and find places for prayer. The spiritual life of Assisi is found both without and within. And the teachings of Saint Francis are as alive and inspiring today as they were eight centuries ago. Legend has it that Francis preached to the birds. The birds appear to be still listening...
...hopefully we are, too.
La pace sia con te. Peace be with you.
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