Assisi Diary - Day 33 - Vicolo Fortezza

After yesterday's long hike, and with another one possible tomorrow, today is a day for taking it easy.  I did walk down to Santa Maria degli Angeli this morning to pick up a few things, about six miles round trip.  Clouds began gathering overhead, again, leaving me feeling a bit like Joe Btfsplk, although I've been fairly lucky about not getting caught in downpours.  Upon returning I walked over to a local store to pick up some fresh bread, and watched as groups of tourists followed their flag-carrying leaders up into town, accompanied by a flash of lightening.  Fortunately, the forecast is for much sunshine in the days ahead.

This is what Assisi looks like out a front window on a rainy day.

I live on Vicolo Fortezza, which means "fortress alley", a likely reference to the fact that if one climbs up those stairs in the picture, plus many, many more stairs and walkways, one eventually arrives at the Rocca Maggiore fortress.  If one goes down about fifty stairs descending to the right, one arrives at the fountain in the Piazza del Comune.  In Italy the word "alley" does not necessarily carry negative "dark alley" connotations as in the U.S.  Here an alley is essentially a pedestrian street, or a road without cars, a vicolo without vehicles.  As Assisi pre-dates motorized traffic by many centuries, most of the streets with vehicular traffic in town are narrow and one-way. (Although it is not uncommon to see people driving rapidly backwards down one-way streets in the wrong direction).

My understanding is that a part of the wall of the building in the center-right part of the picture goes back to Roman times.  This being one of the oldest parts of the city, extending up from the the Piazza del Comune past San Rufino to the Porta Perlici area, there are many remains dating back two thousand or more years.

Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 32 - In the Clouds

At the start of the day my plan was to hike up Subasio and explore some trails above the treeline.  The weather forecast for Assisi was partly cloudy and mild.  I set out just after 6:00 a.m. and soon saw the "partly" involved openings over the valley but not the mountain.  Optimistically I hoped the clouds would give way to sun on the mountain.  However, an hour later, approaching the Eremo, the sky overhead was drizzly and ominous.
Recalling there is a 7:30 mass at the Eremo, I made my way through the gate, along a path and down toward the chapel.

Silence is requested at the Eremo.  The chapel is beautiful, built so close to the mountain that some of the Subasio stone actually projects into the nave.  There were 19 people there for this morning's service, including 9 nuns, 3 priests or brothers, a group of 6 six lay people who appeared to be brought there by the priest who said mass, and a guy carrying a day pack as if on a hike, this latter fellow being the only non-Italian.  The mass, too, was quite beautiful, with guitar and violin music.

My hope was this hour and a half visit would allow for weather conditions to improve.  They did not; but, inasmuch as hope springs eternal, I continued on upwards, stopping to look back at this view of the Eremo.

Notice the clouds at the top of the picture.  From my vantage point, I looked down on a sunlit valley, and up at a dense white.  After a while the paved road ended, the temperature dropped sharply, a strong wind picked up and I entered into the whiteness, following a dirt road that would, in a couple of miles, pass fairly close to the summit.

Setting off on trails was no longer an alternative.  The visibility varied, but generally was about ten yards.  Here's one of the better views.

My hope was the sky would clear, the wind would diminish, the temperature rise... none of which was happening.  Occasionally the whiteness would brighten, giving, uh, hope of a breakthrough, but by the time the summit drew near, the dense clouds, cold and wind were all in force, making it seem more like February in the Appenines than April in Umbria. 

The last couple of hundred yards to the summit one must leave the road and walk across an open grassy area (no trail), normally an easy stroll with the end in sight.  Today, however, the summit was no place close to being in sight.  So, I set off across the frozen tundra... okay, it wasn't quite that bad... but close, trying to walk in a steadily higher direction since summits, as a rule, tend to be high points, and ambled along through the clouds until finally encountering a trail marker from a different direction and from there altering my course until the summit marker came into view.

Didn't see any other hikers about (of course).  The stroll back to the road was uncertain, as well, although I eventually came upon it in a more favorable spot than what I was looking for.  By now any thoughts of exploring nearby trails were gone.  In fact, most of the next hour felt even more windy and bitter cold.  Finally, descending out of the clouds, I left the road for warmer trails that led back down to Assisi.

So, while the day did not turn out as planned, one might say that with a visit to the Eremo, a summit adventure and a safe return, things turned out even better than one might have hoped.

Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 31 - Flags and a Facade

Finally back in the apartment, home for the next couple of weeks. 

Family flags have begun to appear around town, perhaps in anticipation of Calendimaggio, when the upper and lower parts of town will meet in friendly competitions, a holdover from centuries past when the competitions weren't so friendly.

Much of Assisi will don period costumes, and drums and floats and crossbows will be in evidence, with parades and festivities.

I've read someplace that, while people in the U.S. identify closely with being Americans, Italians identify most strongly with extended family, then with home town, and relatively less strongly with their nation.  Such a theory is not to be tested during World Cup soccer competitions.

Took some pictures of the facade of San Rufino today.  The first church at this location was built early in the 5th Century.  The current church, or rather cathedral, is 13th Century.  The facade is amazingly and intricately detailed.  Here are a few examples, with notes from Guide to Assisi History and Art, the first being the largest portal, "illustrated with a series of allegorical figures referring to the Apocalypse."

Next is from below the portal on the right, where "in the architrave are the Symbols of the Evangelists shown next to the Mystical Lamb and in the lunette are two peacocks drinking from a vase."

I don't know the age of these doors; however, just inside them is the font where Saint Francis, Saint Clare and probably Frederick II were baptized.

Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 30 - Moving Again

Today I moved out of Saint Anthony’s Guest House as 31 Danes with a long-standing reservation were due to arrive.  Since the apartment is not available again until tomorrow, I’m spending tonight at the La Fortezza Hotel.  Here's looking out from the hotel window.

Went to mass this evening at the Basilica of Saint Clare.  There was a nun there last year helping out before and during mass who I remembered because she smiled so much, appearing truly happy about her work.  There she was again this year, still smiling and seeming to enjoy every moment of her existence.  While much of the world is searching for happiness in other places, she seems to have found it living among the Poor Clares, materially poor, but not without a wealth of blessings.

Need to catch up on picture taking.  Here’s a glimpse of the brick sidewalk that extends from Santa Maria degli Angeli to Assisi.

Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 29 - Rain vs. Gelato

Today, after mass at the Basilica of Saint Francis, I had an opportunity to study the Sepulchral Monument of John of Brienne, King of Jerusalem and Emperor of Constantinople, still later in life a Third Order Franciscan, a friend of Francis and, from the little I’ve read, one of History’s more interesting characters.  But his is another story.  Afterwards I walked down through Assisi’s cemetery, very beautifully decorated with flowers, then around and up to the higher end of town.

After having some lunch, I finished reading Dicken’s Hard Times, an excellent book (although Bleak House is still a favorite).  Then, it was decision time.  For days I had been putting off having some gelato, waiting for the perfect combination of a quiet, carefree, warm and sunny afternoon.  This afternoon was quiet, and relatively carefree and, while clouds darkened the sky to the south, the west, the north and the east, directly overhead the sun was shining brightly.  Bundling up against a chilly wind, one could even feign warmth in the sun’s path.  The opportunity was too good to pass up.  I grabbed an umbrella (as not having one would be courting disaster), and set out.

The preferred gelato place being about a ten or fifteen minute walk, I strolled through the Piazza del Comune and up a narrow main road between high buildings.  Drawing close to my destination, I came to a spot where the views open up far towards Perugia, and it was in that direction there appeared heavy black clouds.  But now the die was cast.  The gelato store owner recognized and greeted me with a cheerful “Ciao” and I proceeded to study the various flavors available containing large, small or, for that matter, any portions of chocolate.  In the end, I went with a cup half chocolate and half a flavor called “kiss”, that is basically chocolate with a few other good things thrown in.  The owner made comment on my inclinations toward chocolate and served up a good portion.

Stepping out onto the street, I decided to take my treat over to the wall above the Church of San Stefano, a short ways away, and one of the prettiest places to sit in Assisi.  The wall and the gelato, a happy combination.

Looking up, far across the valley rain was falling heavily.  Looking up again shortly thereafter, the rain was falling heavily less far across the valley.  Further observation was unnecessary.  Gelato in hand, it was back through town at a brisk pace, somewhat diminishing the leisurely component of the gelato experience, although chocolate is good at any speed.  Through the piazza, up the street and into the house, dry.  Although a close call; before I was up to my room, rain was pelting off the windows. 

Not the perfect gelato experience, but a sweet, successful endeavor nonetheless, escaping both the rain and a fate of having to ponder a gelato that might have been.   

Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 28 - Services and Scenes Around Town

As today started out sunny, I headed down to Santa Maria degli Angeli to attend mass and pick up some groceries.  A couple of observations on how liturgical services seem to differ here from the U.S.   First, in Italy, while people generally rise, sit or kneel in unison, often part of the congregation may be kneeling while another part may be standing, or one may find kneeling, sitting and standing all going on at once.  Also, while one may fairly well anticipate how long a service will last in the U.S., things here seem less predictable.  One afternoon I stopped by for a 5:30 p.m. service at the Basilica of Saint Clare, only to find it packed full, with firemen in uniform wandering about.  There appeared so much anticipation, it seemed the Pope might arrive.  When the mass began, with much incense and a procession of about 20 clerics, I realized looked to be a very long service, and quietly left for another one at San Rufino beginning at six o'clock.

Today, however, the 9:00 a.m. mass at Santa Maria degli Angeli, with perhaps 40 in attendance, and including a sermon, moved along so briskly that afterwards I walked to the grocery store, picked up a few items, and was part way back to Assisi when 10:00 a.m. rolled around. 

That's not to suggest that brevity (the soul of wit) or lengthiness (thoroughness) make for a better mass.  The essence of the mass is not to be improved upon.  However, a well-thought out sermon, or a well-presented liturgy, tend to inspire in wonderful ways, regardless of length, adding in a fine way to the graces received.  (I’ll confess to having witnessed sermons in Italian, understanding little, that were presented with such sincere enthusiasm that every time the word “pace” was spoken, I felt joyfully uplifted by a spirit of peace.)

Speaking of wit, one of my favorite mass observations occurs at the little church of Santa Margherita.  There the priest, at the end of the weeknight mass, while leaving the altar, invariably leans up and blows out the Easter Candle, then proceeds back to the sacristy.  I suppose, having lit small flames in the hearts of the congregation, there’s no need to hesitate in closing up for the evening.

Here’s a few scenes around town.  Dog in window.

Nun assisting elder and budding soccer player.

Group travel.

Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 27 - Ponte d'Annibale

Set out on a moderate length hike today that turned out shorter than anticipated.  The Tescio River valley runs along to the north of Assisi, far below Rocca Maggiore.  The cliffs in that area form a natural part of the fortress, and there’s a section of river with no paved roads nearby.  From certain viewpoints in Assisi, one can look down and see olive groves and, in one spot, an old bridge. 

I left Assisi by Porta San Giacomo and followed a steep road down to the old (but recently restored) Santa Croce Church.  Then it was over the Tescio on the bridge Charlemagne’s troops had crossed, although one could have easily walked across the riverbed, as it was now dry.  From there I picked up a trail and walked through woods and olive groves, far below the Rocca, which rose up to the right.  One interesting grove was planted in three circles, next to an old tower with an Italian flag flying over it.  A sign indicated it was a work of art, providing an explanation for this interesting configuration I had noticed in the past looking down from Assisi.  Eventually, the trail led to an old and dilapidated bridge, Ponte d’Annibale (Hannibal's Bridge).

Not much left here to cross over.

Beyond the bridge, the trail quickly deteriorated with much overgrowth.  After brushing through it for a ways without seeing much improvement, I decided against trying to continue on to Costa di Trex, and turned back in the direction from which I had come.   It was a fine enough adventure without adding scrapes and scratches in the Umbrian wilds.

Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 26 - Rivotorto

After breakfast this morning, having heard the day would be sunny, I set off down toward Rivotorto.  Almost at once I felt a cool mist, then a cold wind.  While every day Spring seems to be catching more of a hold, Winter is doing its best to hang on.  In fact, this little seasonal conflict is making for some good hiking weather, if one is willing to risk having a mass of dark clouds creep around Subasio and let loose a torrent.

As I was going along a road behind San Damiano, a man carrying a staff stepped out a short ways in front of me.  He carefully surveyed the road up and down, then suddenly a large flock of sheep appeared behind him.  He and his dog shepherded them quickly across; although, once the first few passed over the others seemed to follow, well, like sheep.  The dog stopped and took an interest in me; however, that was short lived when another dog appeared down the road.

How many sheep?  Feel free to count.

Rivotorto is where Francis and his earliest followers lived for a short while in what is perhaps best described as a “hovel”.  The staple of their diet was wild turnips, as they happily set out to do good deeds in their newfound poverty.

One day this idyllic existence was cut short when a farmer arrived and decided the hovel would serve well as a shelter for his donkey.  As he literally attempted to move it in, Francis, either in charity or in frustration, announced that it was not God’s intention that he serve as an innkeeper for the animal, and from there he and his followers moved on to the Porziuncola.
There’s a large church now where these events took place and, inside, built in and below the rear of the nave, are a couple of stone “hovels” commemorating this special location.  It’s an interesting place to visit, about an hour’s walk down from Assisi.  Here’s how it appears from a distance.

Soon after returning to town I went to a late morning mass in a chapel of the lower church of the Basilica of Saint Francis.  Regardless of whether Spring weather has taken hold, since Easter the numbers of visitors to Assisi seems to keep growing and growing, especially on the main road connecting the Basilicas of Saints Francis and Clare, and within the passageways of those sacred places.

Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 25 - Dining Out

While at Saint Anthony’s, I’ll be eating out often.  Last evening I dined at an old favorite, Pizzeria Otello, a rustic but warm restaurant that seems to receive much business from local families.  I had skewered, roasted vegetables on a bed of lettuce, along with a baked potato drenched in olive oil.  I say “drenched” as the olive oil is so excellent, and applied so liberally, that it complements the entire meal.  Fresh baked bread came with the meal.  Italians tend not to add butter or condiments to their bread, which instead can draw added taste from the entrée, in this case absorbing the olive oil and other flavors.  Quite good, too, was a glass of the red house wine.

Tonight, after mass at Santa Margherita, I’m hoping to stop by I Monaci (The Monks), a somewhat hidden restaurant down a wide stepped alley, then down a narrow staircase, that opens into a large dining area and a kitchen with a wood fired pizza oven.  The pizza there, of course, is quite delicious.  This is the place where, when dining with friends, I enjoyed a vegetarian pizza that included unpitted olives. 

Although the weather hasn’t fully committed to springtime, more visitors are evident.  I was talking with a fellow from Texas today who, with his wife, has been coming to Assisi for thirty years.  One might wonder what could draw people for so long from so far away, unless one has already experienced being here. 

Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 24 - Saint Anthony's Guest House

Today, because some folks from Holland had rented a year in advance, I had to vacate my apartment for a week.  No problem.  I’m now happily settled in a small room at Saint Anthony’s Guest House, a welcoming place provided by the Franciscan Sisters of the Atonement.   While my room is simple and basic, the lone window offers a magnificent view over the Basilica of Saint Clare to the Spoleto Valley below.  With no television, radio or (alas) internet access, it creates an atmosphere conducive to contemplation, reading or just daydreaming.  It’s a quiet refuge in an unquiet world.

Also, in the event of rainy days, Saint Anthony’s has a fine library bordered on three sides by large windows, affording still more beautiful views of Assisi and the surrounding countryside.  While the guest house has been in operation for over seventy-five years, its downstairs breakfast room goes back a bit further, to the 12^th Century, the century Francis was born.  Of course, there is an 11:00 p.m. curfew, which could put a damper on one’s nightlife, if one were so inclined to come to Assisi for the nightlife, but it does lend to being on time when breakfast is served at 7:30 a.m.

By the way, here’s one of my favorite cars about town.

It's cherry red in color and has a bumper that could probably withstand the simultaneous impact of a dozen mosquitos.  Not to mention the sun roof.  And likely high kilometers per liter.  And ability to turn on a dime... without flattening it.

Putt... putt... Ciao.