Ten Spiritual Things to Do in Assisi

There is no shortage of "Things to Do" lists for Assisi, including dining, art, history, nature and shopping experiences. Since most visitors arrive, at least in part, inspired by the lives of Saints Francis and Clare, the list below is for those seeking to share in Assisi's spiritual life. In no particular order (all are heavenly), are ten spiritual "things to do" in Assisi.

Before starting out, go to the information office at one end of Assisi's central Piazza del Comune and request a free map and a schedule (orario) of church services, which at least includes Mass times for larger churches.

1. Participate in the 9:00 a.m. Sunday Mass at the Church of Santo Stefano. This small neighborhood church, built about two decades before Francis was born, is a place where the saint likely prayed, being not far from his boyhood home. The facade of the Church looks much like it did eight centuries ago. Here, in the very heart of Assisi, one is close to her people, both present and past. On a recent Sunday, the service was being broadcast to share with those homebound during the pandemic.

2. Participate in a 7:15 a.m. weekday Mass under the original San Damiano Cross at the Basilica of Saint Clare. Join the Poor Clares (who are unseen in the right transept) for Mass following their morning prayers. The chapel is built over the foundation of the Church of Saint George, where Saint Francis went to school as a child, to the right of the main entrance in the picture below.

3. Join Franciscan priests, nuns and friars for the 7:15 a.m. weekday Mass in the Basilica of Saint Francis, surrounded by art and history, and before an altar resting over the tomb of Saint Francis. The lower church may be accessed by following the wide walkway down just to the left of the picture below.

4. Rather than filing through the crypt of Saint Francis' tomb with thousands later in the day, be there at 6:00 a.m., when the lower church opens, descend the stairs and join a handful of others in peaceful prayer.

5. Attend Sunday morning Mass at the lovely small neighborhood Church of Santa Margherita, located above and overlooking the Basilica of Saint Francis. This Franciscan church was built a couple of decades following the time of Francis. In the past, Mass has been at 10:00 a.m., but on a recent Sunday the service started earlier.

6. Attend the 6:00 p.m. Mass in the beautiful Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament in the Cathedral of San Rufino, located to the right as you enter the church. If there is singing, the sounds sometimes seem to echo off the ceiling, as if the congregation is being joined by angelic participants. Close by is the baptismal font of Francis and Clare.

7. Travel a couple of miles down the hill to Santa Maria degli Angeli to visit the Porziuncola, or "Little Portion" of Saint Francis, the home of his order, where he lived and prayed. It is a very small church located inside a very large basilica, not difficult to find. Crowded or not, it's a blessing to be able to spend a few moments in prayer inside the Little Portion.

Very close by is the location of the Transitus of Saint Francis, where he passed on to his eternal life. A beautiful painting suggests an image of the moment.

8. From Assisi, walk down and visit the Church of San Damiano, which Saint Francis helped to rebuild, and walk through where Saint Clare and her first followers lived. If off to an early start, share in a 7:30 a.m. Mass there. The walk down and climb back up is fairly steep, affording more time for prayer and contemplation, not to mention exercise.

9. For the truly hardy, leave Assisi around 6:00 a.m., pass under Porta Cappuccini, and walk the Mount Subasio road up to the Eremo della Carceri, where Francis and his earliest followers used to go for quiet and prayer. There is a 7:30 a.m. Mass, and visitors are welcomed to join the Eremo's residents in prayer. The small chapel is actually built into the side of the mountain. It is a place of silence and beauty.

10. Finally, even on days when thousands of visitors are passing through Assisi, it is possible to walk quiet back streets and find places for prayer. The spiritual life of Assisi is found both without and within. And the teachings of Saint Francis are as alive and inspiring today as they were eight centuries ago. Legend has it that Francis preached to the birds. The birds appear to be still listening...

...hopefully we are, too.

La pace sia con te. Peace be with you.

Mass under the San Damiano Cross

Arriving a little early for this morning's 7:15 a.m. Mass in the Chapel of the Crucifix in the Basilica of Saint Clare, I found myself alone in prayer before the San Damiano Cross, below which Saint Francis heard a voice asking that he "rebuild my Church."

Actually, I wasn't entirely alone. Out of sight in the right transept the Poor Clares were singing their morning prayers. It is difficult to find words to describe the beauty, clarity and solemnity of the moment. As a Franciscan, it was time close to Francis and Clare. As a Catholic, a time of awareness of the intense, heavenly Love of our Father. As a person, a moment of appreciation of the sanctity of all humanity, and of knowing that God's Love will prevail over all that is misguided and evil in the world today.  

The San Damiano Cross speaks to us, as well. We, too, need to continually work to repair our lives and the Church of which we are a part, with the same humility and love as Francis and Clare.

Three other congregants arrived for Mass, an early start to a day filled with grace and blessings.

Peace and goodness be with you.

Visiting Assisi during the Coronavirus

As travel resumes around the world, questions abound about what's open, what's changed and what are the health safety rules. Here are a few tips and anecdotes from Assisi.

First, if one has an aversion to wearing masks, don't book a flight yet. Masks are required to enter Assisi churches, restaurants, shops... most every public indoor setting. It is not just a suggestion; if one enters a church without a mask on, one may expect to be stopped within seconds and shown the exit door.

Second, certain Masses may not yet be fully accessible to everyone, due to space limitations, keeping seating safely spaced in the churches.

Third, while certain businesses have closed, many excellent restaurants and gift shops remain open. Menu's may be a bit shorter, and seating either spread out or moved outdoors, but there are still plenty of good options.

Fourth, U.S. citizens may be required to show an I.D. and a white vaccination card to enter a restaurant.

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One recent morning the doors didn't even open for the early morning Mass at the Basilica of Saint Clare.

Thankfully, some waiting nuns quickly led the way to the nearby Church of San Quirico for a slightly later Mass.

On a Sunday, as the hour approached for the early Mass at the Basilica of Saint Clare (which is held in a chapel that is home to the San Damiano cross, and can seat perhaps 30-40 safely), a tour group of about 40-50 could be seen filing into the Church, then promptly filing back out. A few minutes later there was no problem entering solo.

Even at the Eremo della Carceri, on the side of Mount Subasio, where Francis and his early followers would go to pray, access to the small chapel for a morning Mass is restricted to a certain safe number. 

Thankfully, following an early morning hike, there was room for one more to join six priests/brothers, three nuns and three other lay people for Mass. 

As for dining, I've only been "white carded" at one restaurant thus far, that being I Monaci.

However, I Monaci's very excellent pizza made it well worthwhile.

The crowds that descend on Assisi around Easter seemed not quite as large this year, but still were substantial, keeping it a very busy place. 

Yet as busy as some days get, early morning walks here are nearly always tranquil and uncrowded.

Of the two gates in this photo, the newer, distant one is about 700 years old, whereas the older, closer one defined the city wall long before the time of Saint Francis.

For over two thousand years Assisi has survived everything from barbarian invasions to plagues (losing about half of its population to the Black Death in 1348). Her residents have been enduring a difficult time, as has much of Italy and the world. However, one can sense a combination of caution and resilience here, as they gradually reopen doors to a prayerful, hopeful and peace-seeking world.

Ciao.

Easter in Assisi 2022

After a three year hiatus, it is good to be back in Assisi. I arrived during Holy Week, and on Good Friday joined a procession through town, beginning at the Cathedral of San Rufino and ending at the Basilica of Saint Francis. The following photos are in front of the Basilica of Saint Clare. Assisi's Bishop Sorrentino took part in the walk.

In remembrance of Christ carrying the cross.

Several of Assisi's Confraternities joined in the procession.

While thousands gathered for Easter Sunday services in Assisi's Cathedral and two Basilicas, Francis might have appreciated the Easter Vigil Mass at the small neighborhood Church of Santa Margherita.

This church was built in 1246, while Clare was still alive; some early congregants likely knew the two saints. Since its beginning, it has been under the pastoral care of the Conventual Franciscan Friars of the Sacred Convent of Saint Francis. The altar table is made of the same stone that was once part of the original altar over the tomb of Saint Francis.

A small piazza in front of the church overlooks the Basilica of Saint Francis.

On a cool, windy night, about thirty persons were present for the Santa Margherita Easter Vigil service, several of whom were Franciscan priests, nuns, and at least one Third Order pilgrim. 

As midnight approached following the service, a bright moon shone over the home of Saints Francis and Clare.

La pace sia con te, e Buona Pasqua!

Peace be with you, and Happy Easter! 

Assisi 2022

After a three year absence, I'm planning to return to Assisi on April 13. Looking forward to being there for Easter, and hopefully doing some posting. Peace and goodness be with you!

Assisi 2020 - X

This is the Tenth and final post in a series sharing information and perspectives on the lives of Saints Francis and Clare, life in Assisi and seeking to follow Franciscan values in today's world. Hopefully, in the not-too-distant future, I'll be posting again from Assisi. La pace sia con te.

Gospel Quote - Luke 17: 5-6. The apostles said to the Lord, "Increase our faith." The Lord replied, "If you had faith as tiny as a mustard seed, you could say to this mulberry tree, 'Be uprooted and planted in the sea,' and it would obey you."

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Umbrian Adventure - When the weather allows, one may walk out the door in Assisi and begin a trek up Mount Subasio. The follow is from a 2016 post.
Assisi, for those who have never visited, sits on the side of Mount Subasio. One can hardly approach the town from any direction without being impressed by this singular mountain. Assisi slants upward in her direction. Climbing Subasio on foot begins before even passing through the city's upper gate.

Subasio is rich in natural beauty and history, has numerous hiking trails, and has long served as a spiritual haven. Hikers contemplating visits to Assisi may wonder about the nature and accessibility of Subasio's trails. Is it a challenging hike to the Eremo delle Carceri? Are there trails leading to the summit? What are the weather conditions like?
Let's begin with this last question. The summer brings mild, even hot days to the mountain, while winter brings icy cold winds and snow. Spring brings both. So, for example, you may awake in late March to see the summit coated with snow, or you may awake to a near perfect cool, clear hiking day. On a partly sunny day in Assisi, the mountain may be enveloped in dense clouds offering just a few yards of visibility. So, watching the weather and choosing trails carefully are important before setting out. If the forecast looks bad, stay closer to town and enjoy the flowers.

Subasio's lower trails are easily accessible from locations around the base of the mountain. From Assisi,  the closest way to begin is by passing through Porta Cappuccini, the highest city gate. Recently, new trail signs were placed on Subasio, and one of them stands just beyond the gate.

From there, on Trail #50 a walker may start out for the Eremo dell Carceri or for the high country. There are even some unofficial Franciscan trail markers, as observed by this Peace of Tau blog.

The lower part of the trail is rocky and steep in places, and in rainy or hot weather walkers hoping to reach the Eremo might find following the country road more manageable. With most any path, road or trail, you will have good views of Assisi.

Those wishing to bypass the Eremo and head directly for the high country may want to turn left onto Trail #53 where it intersects with Trail #50 after a steep section of climbing. From higher up on Trail #53 one can either follow the dirt road to the summit, or continue on the trail and pick up Trail #61, which also leads to the top.
For those walking the road, with a brisk pace, the Eremo can be reached in less than an hour, and it takes about two hours to approach the tree line.
The trails leading to the tree line do have steep, rocky sections, but generally involve gradual climbing on good paths.

By late March there are no shortage of wildflowers along the trails.

When the pavement ends for road walkers, and trail hikers come out of the forests, the views open wide. The view below, just above the tree line, includes the summit area in the distance to the left of center, Colle San Rufino to the right, and a mountain sculpture to the far left.

This day was a bit hazy, but the Apennine views were still fine.

While usually there are few hikers about in March, one does encounter other high country visitors.

There is much to see high up on Subasio, including natural formations called mortari that resemble sinkholes in appearance.

Here's Mortaro Grande, a nice "hike within a hike" to reach the bottom.

Subasio's summit can be approached from any direction and it is well marked. It sits on a grassy rise with spectacular views in every direction. On a clear day it's an easy approach, roughly 3 - 4 hours above Assisi. On a day when the summit is clouded and visibility low, it can be a challenge to find, even from the dirt road that passes high over the mountain.

When starting back down there are a few trail options, including those heading to Assisi, to the Eremo or to Costa di Trex (a few miles from Assisi). There's also the dirt road, the path of choice when the weather is suspect. Starting down this day on Trail #50, which can be picked up below the dirt road between the summit and the radio towers, I observed someone who had recently taken flight.

That's one way to descend the mountain. A stretch of great views included a glimpse of Assisi from just off the trail.

Trail #50 eventually passes through an area of gentle hills.

Here there are usually horses about, grazing or getting a refreshing drink at an old stable.

Finally, after a couple of hours descending, it's back through Porta Cappuccini into town, ready for a pizza at the I Monaci restaurant.
Here's a few tips for first time hikers.
*Try to pick up a trail map before starting out. Zubboli's Bookstore on Assisi's Piazza del Comune may have them available, or the nearby Tourist Information Office may know where one can be found.
*Check the weather forecast, then be prepared for the worst case scenario. Subasio can cloud in with strong winds, severe cold, rain or snow during much of the year. Wear layers, as a cold morning can turn into a mild and sunny afternoon.
*If you only have a few hours, enjoy walking up to and exploring the Eremo delle Carceri. If you have more time, consider heading off on some of Subasio's more remote trails, exploring the mortari, searching for the abandoned town of Gabbiano Vecchio, climbing on Colle San Rufino (where some of Assisi earliest settlers lived and where a makeshift shrine may be found), or simply heading up trails or dirt roads to the summit.
*Hang gliding? You're on your own.
*Bring plenty of food and, especially, water. Seeing pilgrims trying to make their way up to the Eremo around noon on a warm, sunny day without water is not a pretty site.
*Start out early, at about daylight for a climb to the summit. A cool uphill climb is easier and there's essentially no early morning traffic on the lower road. In fact, you may not encounter anyone on foot or in vehicles, and you'll get to experience the serenity of Subasio from the moment you pass through Porta Cappuccini. You'll also have more time to explore.

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Reflections - One of the wonderful "Little Flower" legends of Saint Francis involves his sharing with Brother Leo how to find perfect joy. First Francis lists several special deeds that would not bring perfect joy, including setting examples of holiness, making the lame to walk, chasing away demons, giving sight to the blind, hearing to the deaf, speech to the dumb, raising the dead after four days, explaining all Scripture; speaking with the tongues of angels, converting all infidels to the faith of Christ, and much more.
When Brother Leo begs, “Father, I pray thee teach me wherein is perfect joy.” Francis explains how if, after a rainy, cold and exhausting journey, they are turned away from their own home, accused of being imposters, and are abused and cast out into the snow and rain, and if they, "accept such injustice, such cruelty and such contempt ... and bear all these injuries with patience and joy, thinking of the sufferings of our Blessed Lord, which we would share out of love for him, write, O Brother Leo, that here, finally, is perfect joy."
Then Francis explains, "Above all the graces and all the gifts of the Holy Spirit which Christ grants to his friends, is the grace of overcoming oneself, and accepting willingly, out of love for Christ, all suffering, injury, discomfort and contempt; for in all other gifts of God we cannot glory, seeing they proceed not from ourselves but from God, according to the words of the Apostle, ‘What hast thou that thou hast not received from God? and if thou hast received it, why dost thou glory as if thou hadst not received it?’ But in the cross of tribulation and affliction we may glory, because, as the Apostle says again, ‘I will not glory save in the cross of our Lord Jesus Christ.’ Amen.”

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Something Franciscan - It took time for Francis to gain his first follower. Now, eight centuries later, he has many more. There are three Franciscan orders. The First Order includes consecrated male religious who are Observants (Order of Friars Minor), or Conventuals (Order of Friars Minor Conventuals), or Capuchins (Order of Friars Minor Capuchins). The Second Order, the Order of Saint Clare, includes consecrated female religious. The Third Order includes both the Third Order Regular (various congregations of religious) and the Third Order Secular (lay persons). Worldwide, close to half a million persons belong to one of the Orders of Saint Francis.

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Thank you for reading. Hopefully I'll be posting more in the not-distant future... from Assisi.

Pax et bonum.

Assisi 2020 - IX

This is the Ninth in a series of posts sharing information and perspectives on the lives of Saints Francis and Clare, life in Assisi and seeking to follow Franciscan values in today's world.

Gospel Quote - Matthew 11: 4-6. "Go back and tell John what you hear and see: the blind receive their sight, the lame walk, those who have leprosy are cured, the deaf hear, the dead are raised to life, and the poor have the good news proclaimed to them. And blessed is anyone who takes no offense at me."

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Umbrian Adventure - For those interested in a vigorous day trek from Assisi, a fine town to visit is Spello. Here's an updated description from past posts.
It's a fairly straight trek of about six miles each way between Assisi and Spello, going along the foothills of Mount Subasio. About two hours at a brisk pace (and two more to return). The section after the village of Viole is quite rural, without many vehicles and with plenty of wildflowers.

And occasional bystanders.

The last section of road before Spello is called, "The Way of the Olive Trees." I'm not sure of the correct Italian spelling. Here's one street sign:

Here's another:

Either way, it's a beautiful place for walking through olive groves.

Before entering the town, I hoped to find Spello's Roman amphitheater, which turned out to be fenced off and showing twenty centuries of wear.

An interesting historical finding is that most of Umbria's amphitheaters were built up from flat ground, rather than taking advantage of natural contours in the land.
Up the hill from the amphitheater is one of Spello's main gates.

Spello goes back to Etruscan times and, like Assisi, is a well preserved town with much to see. Special treasures include paintings of Perugino and Pinturicchio found in local churches. Also, there is the Twelfth Century San Severino Church, which has an interesting interior and history.
A special out-of-the-way find is the small Thirteenth Century Chiesa di Sant'Anna, which on this day was closed off and locked up.

Fortunately, one could still view beyond the latticework.

A fresco dating back to at least the Sixteenth Century, with the Blessed Mother and Child with Saint Anne.

Another section of the fresco, an angel.

Inside Spello's walls there's much to see, do and explore. Here are just a few images. First, part of the carved wooden entry door of the Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore.

Second, the interior of the Chiesa di Sant'Andrea.

Some of the artwork of this church includes a 16th Century Enthroned Madonna and Child with saints by Pinturicchio and some of his followers. (Note the stigmata on Saint Francis' feet and hands.)

And a portion of a 16th Century fresco with Saints Joachim and Anne, by Dono Doni.

A 13th or 14th Century Madonna and Child embedded in the wall.

Probably could do a dozen posts on Spello. However, for now will leave you with a typical Spello store window.

A typical Spello cat with flowers.

And a typical Spello... not sure what it is, but it has a good smile!

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Reflections - Art inspires. Here are some examples from Italy (including public domain photos in the USA) with a few added comments.
The first is the Apparition of The Virgin to Saint Bernard by Filippino Lippi (c 1486), to be found in the Badia Fiorentina in Florence. Capturing a miraculous moment for Bernard of Clairvaux, whose writings often focused on Mary.

Second is Cimabue's depiction of Saint Francis, part of his late Thirteenth Century Madonna Enthroned with Saint Francis, to be found in the lower church of the Basilica of Saint Francis in Assisi. A humble Francis, with stigmata wounds, in the latter years of his life.

Third is Domenico Bruschi's Death of Saint Francis (c 1886), to be found in the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli by where Francis died. Angels arrive to accompany him to Heaven

Finally is Fra Angelico's The Annunciation (c 1440-1445), to be found in the Church of San Marco in Florence. The first joyful mystery of the angel Gabriel's visit to Mary to share miraculous news.

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Something Franciscan - The specifics of the early history of Francis' Third Order have been debated. Possibly the Third order began in the Italian town of Cannara around 1221, with its first followers being called the Brothers and Sisters of Penance. In the Thirteenth Century the "Penitents" were also referred to as "Tertiaries". Over time the Third Order differentiated between "Seculars" and "Regulars". In 1883 the Third Order Seculars received a new rule, which was superseded by a 1978 revised "Rule of the Secular Franciscan Order", which is followed today. The abbreviated "OFS" title of Secular Franciscans stands for the Latin phrase "Ordo Franciscanus Saecularis". The order consists of Catholic men and women who seek to observe the Gospel of Jesus by following the example of Francis of Assisi.

Pax et bonum.