Thursday, March 31, 2016

Mount Subasio Walk

This past week Assisi had its share of wind, rain and cold, as if Spring was patiently awaiting a chance to arrive.
Gradually, the sun has been gaining an upper hand.
With the weather starting to improve, I set out early yesterday for a hike on Mount Subasio. With the clocks changing last Sunday, it was still dark passing through town and not a soul was in sight. The road starting up Subasio was empty as well, which made for some good solitary walking. Keeping a good pace, I arrived at the Eremo delle Carceri in less than an hour.
The Eremo has been a sacred place since well before the time of Saint Francis. Set in a dense forest on the side of the mountain, it's where he and his followers used to go for quiet and prayer. Over the centuries, the hermitage there has been added onto, although it is still a very simple and peaceful structure.
Leaving behind my silent trek for a place of silence, I passed through the entry gate and approached the hermitage.
Then continued down a walkway to where my first encounter of the day was with one of the friars. 
No picture taking is allowed inside. However, I entered the small church there just before morning prayers and a Mass were to begin. The church is literally built into the side of the mountain. I sat next to  a rock cropping jutting into the nave. I stayed for the services, a "pellegrino con uno zaino" sharing a special experience with three friars and seven nuns.
Back to hiking, the morning was cold and cloudy, rather good conditions for an uphill trek. Some wind. With the clouds shifting about, occasionally it was possible to see who else was out on the mountain.
Higher up, the wind picked up and the clouds streamed through in bunches. One minute the visibility might be fifty yards, the next fifty miles. After a couple of hours, finding the summit during an in-cloud spell was a bit easier when markers could be seen.
Well, barely seen. It's the little mound to the right of center in the picture.
Finally came the well marked summit, with great views of clouds in every direction.
Having been there many times before, including in worse conditions, it was hardly disappointing, especially since, starting back, the clouds swiftly moved on, opening up some fine vistas.
Including distant mountains.
After a very enjoyable downhill stroll, I approached the Eremo, where the morning's silence had given way to the arrival of many visitors. The entry gate can be seen just beyond the vehicles.
One nice thing about Italy is that even inappropriate things, like graffiti, can have a charming side. Further down the road toward Assisi, someone defaced this stone wall with a message for all who might notice, "Sei bellissima" or "You are very beautiful."
Hopefully not intended for just one person….
A good hike is best followed by a good meal. A favorite place in town for a wood-fired pizza margherita is the I Monaci restaurant, a pleasant setting for dining.
With excellent pizzas.
Ciao.

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