Assisi, for those who have never visited, sits on the side of Mount Subasio. One can hardly approach the town from any direction without being impressed by this distinct and singular mountain. Assisi slants upward in her direction. Climbing Subasio on foot begins before even passing through the city's upper gate.
Subasio is rich in natural beauty and history, has numerous hiking trails, and has long served as a spiritual haven. Many hikers contemplating visits to Assisi may wonder about the nature and accessibility of Subasio's trails. Is it a challenging hike to the Eremo delle Carceri? Are there ways leading to the summit? What are the weather conditions like?
Let's begin with this last question. The summer brings mild, even hot days to the mountain, while winter brings icy cold winds and snow. Spring brings both. So, for example, you may awake in late March to see the summit coated with snow, or you may awake to a near perfect cool, clear hiking day. On a partly sunny day in Assisi the mountain may be enveloped in dense clouds offering just a few yards of visibility. So, watching the weather and choosing trails carefully are important before setting out. If the forecast looks bad, stay closer to town and enjoy the flowers.
Subasio's lower trails are easily accessible from locations around the base of the mountain. From Assisi, the closest way to begin is by passing through Porta Cappuccini, the highest city gate. Recently, new trail signs were placed on Subasio, and one of them stands just beyond the gate.
From there, on Trail #50 a walker may start out for the Eremo dell Carceri or for the high country. There are even some unofficial Franciscan trail markers, as observed by this Peace of Tau blog.
The lower part of the trail is rocky and steep in places, and in rainy or hot weather walkers hoping to reach the Eremo might find following the country road more manageable. With most any path, road or trail, you will have good views back of Assisi.
Those wishing to bypass the Eremo and head directly for the high country may want to turn left onto Trail #53 where it intersects with Trail #50 after a steep section of climbing. From higher up on Trail #53 one can either follow the dirt road to the summit, or continue on the trail and pick up Trail #61, which also leads to the top.
For those walking the road, with a brisk pace, the Eremo can be reached in less than an hour, and it takes about two hours to approach the tree line.
The trails leading to the tree line do have steep, rocky sections, but generally involve gradual climbing on good paths.
By late March there are no shortage of wildflowers along the trails.
When the pavement ends for road walkers, and trail hikers come out of the forests, the views open wide. The view below, just above the tree line, includes the summit area in the distance to the left of center, Colle San Rufino to the right, and a mountain sculpture to the far left.
This day was a bit hazy, but the off mountain views were still fine.
While usually there are few hikers about in March, one does encounter other high country visitors.
There is much to see high up on Subasio, including natural formations called mortari that resemble sinkholes in appearance.
Here's Mortaro Grande, a nice "hike within a hike" to reach the bottom.
Subasio's summit can be approached from any direction and it is well marked. It sits on a grassy rise with spectacular views in every direction. On a clear day it's an easy approach, roughly 3 - 4 hours above Assisi. On a day when the summit is clouded and visibility low, it can be a challenge to find, even from the dirt road that passes high over the mountain.
When starting back down there are a few trail options, including those heading to Assisi, to the Eremo or to Costa di Trex (a few miles from Assisi). There's also the dirt road, the path of choice when the weather is suspect. Starting down this day on Trail #50, which can be picked up below the dirt road between the summit and the radio towers, I observed someone who had recently taken flight.
That's one way to descend the mountain. A stretch of great views included a glimpse of Assisi from just off the trail.
Trail #50 eventually passes through an area of gentle hills.
Here there are usually horses about, grazing or getting a refreshing drink at an old stable.
Finally, after a couple of hours descending, it's back through Porta Cappuccini into town, ready for a pizza at the I Monaci restaurant.
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Here's a few tips for first time hikers.
- Try to pick up a trail map before starting out. Zubboli's Bookstore on Assisi's Piazza del Comune may have them available, or the nearby Tourist Information Office may know where one can be found.
- Check the weather forecast, then be prepared for the worst case scenario. Subasio can cloud in with strong winds, severe cold, rain or snow during much of the year. Wear layers, as a cold morning can turn into a mild and sunny afternoon.
- If you only have a few hours, enjoy walking up to and exploring the Eremo delle Carceri. If you have more time, consider heading off on some of Subasio's more remote trails, exploring the mortari, searching for the abandoned town of Gabbiano Vecchio, climbing on Colle San Rufino (where some of Assisi earliest settlers lived and where a makeshift shrine may be found), or simply heading up trails or dirt roads to the summit.
- Hang gliding? You're on your own.
- Bring plenty of food and, especially, water. Seeing pilgrims trying to make their way up to the Eremo around noon on a warm, sunny day without water is not a pretty site.
- Start out early, at about daylight for a climb to the summit. A cool uphill climb is easier and there's essentially no early morning traffic on the lower road. In fact, you may not encounter anyone on foot or in vehicles, and you'll get to experience the serenity of Subasio from the moment you pass through Porta Cappuccini. You'll also have more time to explore.
Ciao.
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