Visiting the Eremo delle Carceri

The Eremo delle Carceri is in an isolated forest setting part way up Mount Subasio. It's where Francis and his followers used to go for solitude and prayer. Much is available online or in print about the Eremo, so I'll just share a few extra thoughts for those contemplating a visit. While most Eremo pilgrims drive or take a taxi up a country road to get there, many walk. Francis walked. The road from Assisi's Porta Cappuccini is a steady climb of a couple of miles, fairly straight at first, then three switchbacks after the halfway mark. The most direct hiking trail starts at the same gate and involves some steep, loose rock sections. If in doubt, take the road; the views are great. Carry water.
If one sets out late morning on a sunny weekend one may encounter crowds, and will not likely find much solitude. The Eremo is still wonderful to see; just not quite as peaceful when hundreds are present.
I recently took an alternative trail up from the town of Viole.  Met just one other hiker. The trail was steep in places, but was generally a modest climb, even easy along one wide and straight stretch.

There are numerous shrines on or around Mount Subasio.

Approaching the Eremo, it became necessary to hike up a narrower section of trail to get to the road leading to the entrance. On this section was a marker with an arrow pointing to Rome.

Below the arrow, helpful for any disoriented pilgrim walking through the Umbrian woods in search of the Eternal City, appeared the words, "Se la strada no c'e, inventala!" Assuming both wisdom and humor, I think this means, "If the road doesn't exist, make one!"

On to the Eremo.

"Eremo delle Carceri" may be translated as "Hermitage of the Prisons." However, going back to hermits found there even before the time of Francis, Carceri may be better understood to mean small, isolated places. When Francis and his followers arrived, they would branch off into the woods and find their own separate little caves in which to pray and contemplate.

Back in the Thirteenth Century, there was just one modest stone building here. What one finds today is the result of gradual add-ons over several centuries. 

The Eremo is literally built of stone, on stone, as can be seen in this lower section.

Upon entering the Eremo grounds, one passes in silence through an older section of the structure. From there one may follow various forest trails. For example, there's this one, that goes down steep switchbacks to caves named after some of Francis' followers.

I enjoy trail signs with existential messages. The white one above says (in Italian) Trail 150 meters. Grotto of the companions of Saint Francis and finally, senza via di uscita, which is translated on the sign itself as no way out. Perhaps this means the switchbacks you walk down, you must walk back up. Perhaps it means you follow Saint Francis and there is no escaping his goodness.

As for the caves…

Since the adjoining stone walls are dated centuries after Francis, it seems the Franciscan named on each cave may not have been its actual occupant. However, the insides are kept simple and thoughtful as a place of solitude and prayer.

After visiting the grotto, it was time to retrace steps up the steep no way out path.

On another easier path through the Eremo woods one finds a "Tau" altar, with Tau being the Greek letter Francis adopted as a sign of the Cross.

Further along is a nice setting for outdoor services.

Heading back to the Eremo, by the time the sun reaches this hidden hermitage, some of its occupants are ready to warm up.

Here's a "chiesetta" or small church added on a few centuries ago.

When is the Eremo most peaceful and least crowded? Recently I walked up early on a weekday morning and arrived in time for Matins (7:10 a.m.) and Mass (7:30 a.m.) with the four Franciscan brothers and three Poor Clare nuns who call the Eremo home. No other visitors. While the small church in which they hold their services is closed to the day's crowd of tourists, they are very welcoming to those who come to share in their prayers and services. The church itself is built into the side of the mountain; a rock section of which extends into the nave.

Even much of the way down from the Eremo the views are wonderful.

Finally, a favorite 1930's description tying together the Eremo delle Carceri, Saint Francis and the natural beauty of Mount Subasio, by the French philosopher Simone Weil, reads, "Little had I dreamt that such a marvelous place existed. I would have stayed for the rest of my life - if only women were accepted - at the tiny monastery of the Carceri, an hour and fourteen minutes walk up the mountainside from Assisi. No more heavenly and tranquilizing sight exists than Umbria as seen from up there. Saint Francis certainly knew how to choose the most ravishing spots in which to practice poverty: He was far from being an ascetic…."

Ciao.