Gifts and Souvenirs in Assisi

With millions of visitors annually, Assisi has its share of gift and souvenir shops. Most are modest and oriented toward serving pilgrims and tourists, with a few exceptions. Some of the following places and gift ideas, involving acquaintances or vendors from whom I've made purchases, may be included among Assisi's best shopping options.
For special gifts, Ferdinando Tontino has a nice ceramics shop at Via Portica 31.

It's just down the street from the Piazza del Comune in the direction of the Basilica of Saint Francis. Head down the hill to where the road forks and look for his place on the left. 

He has a wide selection of beautiful Deruta ceramics, and also carries works by Assisi artist Claudio Carli. 

A great place to shop, on the Piazza del Comune, across from the Church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, is Zubboli's Bookstore.

Step inside and check out the range of books and stationery products, including what I consider the best book on Assisi art and history, aptly titled Guide to Assisi History and Art. Also, check out the nice advent calendars in one of the glass display cases. And, here too may be found a wide assortment of maps, including a trail map for hiking Mount Subasio.

Another very nice gift shop, Alice (pronounced ah-lee-chay), is located across from the Chiesa Nuova (New Church) just below the fountain end of the Piazza del Comune.

Here may be found may unique hand-made gifts, including colorful Assisi-oriented artwork and clothing for children.

For more standard souvenir shoppers, a good place to find a range of religious items, from trinkets to books, statues and more, is behind the Basilica of Saint Francis, where there is a fairly large gift shop. 

To get there, one may enter and pass through the upper church, then descend the stairs to the side of the apse, or enter and pass through the lower church, then climb the stairs to the side of the apse. Either way, one will arrive outdoors, turning and looking up at the exterior of the church (above) and, off to the side, will find the gift shop.

In terms of standard souvenir shops along the main road through town, perhaps the one with the widest selection is located just across the road from the fountain in front of the Basilica of Saint Clare.

Whether searching for postcards, sweatshirts, small memorabilia or other gifts, there's a good chance you'll find it here.

Of course, the best gifts Assisi visitors take home are spiritual in nature, and are both free and priceless.

Ciao.

Not the Best Trail

Of the many trails in Subasio National Park, it would be difficult to name a favorite. All are rich in natural beauty with wonderful views. Personally, however, choosing a least favorite trail is not so difficult.
Trail #62 begins at the San Vettorino Bridge below Assisi and follows the Tescio River for about 14 kilometers to the town of Armenzano, on the side of Mount Subasio. It offers some fine views and some rugged terrain for hikers interested in something other than well-worn paths. Or even slightly worn paths.
I've now hiked segments of Trail #62 on three occasions, the first time picking up the trail near the restored Church of Santa Croce below Assisi and turning back after a couple of kilometers when the trail basically petered out in overgrown brush. The second time I followed it from Ponte Marchetto to Armenzano, again passing through rugged terrain before finally approaching the ancient fortress town, where a dog on a chain, a very long chain, ran across a dirt road to sink his teeth into my calf. But the views were nice.
Recently, having noticed a new trail sign along the road, perhaps an indicator of some trail maintenance, I again set out from above the Santa Croce Church in the direction of Armenzano, hoping to make it at least as far as Costa di Trex.
Almost immediately there was a fork in the trail. With intuition saying go left, and the red/white markings clearly indicating the the path to the right, I went right, and proceeded to climb up and up, back in the direction of Assisi. There was a nice view of the Basilica of Saint Francis.

And a fine wide view over the Tescio River valley.

However, eventually it became clear that this was not Trail #62, so it was back down the steep path to the fork, where the other path went for some ways before offering more markings. Soon I arrived at Ponte d'Annibale (Hannibal's Bridge), supposedly where the invader crossed the Tescio in 217 B.C. following the Battle of Lake Trasimeno.

It's an interesting old bridge, still walkable, although apparently it hasn't been resurfaced since about 217 B.C.

And on this day, the view from the bridge of the Tescio River was…. well, let's just say the Tescio wasn't exactly overflowing its banks.

There hasn't been much rain of late. Actually, the Tescio can turn into quite a torrent under heavy rain conditions, with its flow eventually meeting up with the Chiascio River, which leads to the Tevere (Tiber) River, which, of course, flows through Rome. The depth (or lack thereof) of the Tescio on this day would come into play a little further along.
As with my first attempt at Trail #62, the path soon began to fade into the surrounding vegetation.

Still, in most places it was not too difficult to follow, or at least to guess where the next trail marker might be, though there was a significant amount of thorny brush needing to be pushed back to avoid tears. What was interesting was that the trail began to traverse back and forth over the river bed. Not a problem, as long as the bed is dry. Eventually I came to what was once a mill on the river, now a residence. Laundry day.

In such rural settings hikers may anticipate hearing from the family dog. Or in this case, the family dogs, which took to barking loudly but, thankfully, did not present themselves. Not sure how many were announcing my arrival/departure, but a nearby scene provided a hint.

A little ways along some puddles appeared in the Tescio, followed by a small trickle, followed by a modest flow. The pleasant surprise of having water in the river was quickly tempered by a realization that the riverbed trail crossings were likely to continue ahead. Sure enough, they did.

At first, they just involved some rock hopping, a bit of caution to avoid wet feet. Besides, when not in the river, the trail had turned back into a good path.

A good path that eventually was blocked off with barbed wire intended to prevent people from entering the area I had just walked. I carefully worked around this obstacle and turned back to read the sign posted on it.

Which mean, Attention! Animals in the pasture. Closed. Thank you. Which is fine, although I hadn't noticed any animals in the pasture or, for that matter any pasture worth grazing, since shortly after leaving Assisi. Even if there were animals in a pasture, not sure why the trail would need to be closed, unless the animals were of a sort that don't appreciate visitors….
The Tescio was growing prettier and deeper.

Unfortunately, the trail soon took another turn for the worse, with increasing slopes, thorny brush and more rough terrain. I passed a spot where there was a small side trail that looked like it might lead up and out of the river basin. After going a bit farther, seeing the river continue to widen, and able to guess from the surrounding hills that Costa di Trex was nearby, I decided to backtrack and try the side trail.

First, a bit of uphill slope, followed by a gradual climb.

Then finally up out of the brush to some local views near Costa di Trex, and a road leading back to Assisi

So, Trail #62 is a bit of an adventure. Perhaps one day I'll revisit it again, or at least sections I've not yet walked. The Marchetto Ravine, also reachable by another trail, is well worth seeing. However, hikers beware, Trail #62 poses some challenges and dangers, not the least of which would be rising waters during rainy times. And there are plenty of other fine walking options throughout Subasio Park.
Ciao.

The Boat in Front of the Basilica of Saint Francis

Currently there's a boat in the courtyard in front of the upper church of the Basilica of Saint Francis in Assisi.

Next to the boat there's a modest sign with a message. I'll try to translate and summarize it here.

The boat and hope

A seven meter boat traveled on the Mediterranean Sea for a long time. Its nine passengers arrived safely on the Island of Lampedusa in March of 2014.

In the same days other boats shipwrecked and seven people fleeing Syria drowned in the Aegean Sea, forty-two people fleeing Yemen drowned in the Gulf of Aden and two hundred and fifty-one persons fleeing the Congo drowned in Lake Albert. Refugees, men and women, fleeing war, violence and death. And children, as well, fifty-seven in the Lake drownings alone. Time passes but things haven't changed. The boats continue to transport those who make it to Europe, while hundreds drown and die, including many children.

The photograph of little Aylan lying on the shore of a Turkish beach seemed to have awakened consciences and it seemed that something could truly change. But the child with the red jersey was only one of many. After him they have continued to die by the hundreds in the same water.

Little four year old Sena drowned at the end of November. Her mother spoke her name continuously while looking for reassurances while boarding the boat with nineteen people, as recalled by the few survivors of the shipwreck. They remembered little Sena. Their words accompanied the photo of Turkish soldiers carrying her with the other bodies of victims.

The children continue to die. They have numbered seven hundred of the thirty-six hundred drowning deaths in the Mediterranean since the beginning of this year. And we ourselves live to look at their photographs, confused by the terror that hit home with the Paris massacre.

Fear blinds and pushes for closing the borders, where perhaps some terrorists have passed, but where certainly one finds thousands of victims of the horrors some profess to define as "religious", that slaughter every day and cause thousands of people to flee. And to abandon everything and to accept the notion of a likely death at sea to escape certain death in the country where they were born.

The boat is red with a white strip across it and the deck is blue like the sea and the sky. It had a forty horsepower motor and went swiftly until three miles from the coast of Lampedusa, where it was aided by the Coast Guard.

Now in Assisi it is moored in front of the Sacred Convent of Saint Francis to represent all of the boats that carry the living to Europe and all of the boats lost at sea.

It's a boat without a name on which only nine traveled, but it represents all of the thousands of persons who ask for help and have a need and a right to have international protection.

Visiting the Eremo delle Carceri

The Eremo delle Carceri is in an isolated forest setting part way up Mount Subasio. It's where Francis and his followers used to go for solitude and prayer. Much is available online or in print about the Eremo, so I'll just share a few extra thoughts for those contemplating a visit. While most Eremo pilgrims drive or take a taxi up a country road to get there, many walk. Francis walked. The road from Assisi's Porta Cappuccini is a steady climb of a couple of miles, fairly straight at first, then three switchbacks after the halfway mark. The most direct hiking trail starts at the same gate and involves some steep, loose rock sections. If in doubt, take the road; the views are great. Carry water.
If one sets out late morning on a sunny weekend one may encounter crowds, and will not likely find much solitude. The Eremo is still wonderful to see; just not quite as peaceful when hundreds are present.
I recently took an alternative trail up from the town of Viole.  Met just one other hiker. The trail was steep in places, but was generally a modest climb, even easy along one wide and straight stretch.

There are numerous shrines on or around Mount Subasio.

Approaching the Eremo, it became necessary to hike up a narrower section of trail to get to the road leading to the entrance. On this section was a marker with an arrow pointing to Rome.

Below the arrow, helpful for any disoriented pilgrim walking through the Umbrian woods in search of the Eternal City, appeared the words, "Se la strada no c'e, inventala!" Assuming both wisdom and humor, I think this means, "If the road doesn't exist, make one!"

On to the Eremo.

"Eremo delle Carceri" may be translated as "Hermitage of the Prisons." However, going back to hermits found there even before the time of Francis, Carceri may be better understood to mean small, isolated places. When Francis and his followers arrived, they would branch off into the woods and find their own separate little caves in which to pray and contemplate.

Back in the Thirteenth Century, there was just one modest stone building here. What one finds today is the result of gradual add-ons over several centuries. 

The Eremo is literally built of stone, on stone, as can be seen in this lower section.

Upon entering the Eremo grounds, one passes in silence through an older section of the structure. From there one may follow various forest trails. For example, there's this one, that goes down steep switchbacks to caves named after some of Francis' followers.

I enjoy trail signs with existential messages. The white one above says (in Italian) Trail 150 meters. Grotto of the companions of Saint Francis and finally, senza via di uscita, which is translated on the sign itself as no way out. Perhaps this means the switchbacks you walk down, you must walk back up. Perhaps it means you follow Saint Francis and there is no escaping his goodness.

As for the caves…

Since the adjoining stone walls are dated centuries after Francis, it seems the Franciscan named on each cave may not have been its actual occupant. However, the insides are kept simple and thoughtful as a place of solitude and prayer.

After visiting the grotto, it was time to retrace steps up the steep no way out path.

On another easier path through the Eremo woods one finds a "Tau" altar, with Tau being the Greek letter Francis adopted as a sign of the Cross.

Further along is a nice setting for outdoor services.

Heading back to the Eremo, by the time the sun reaches this hidden hermitage, some of its occupants are ready to warm up.

Here's a "chiesetta" or small church added on a few centuries ago.

When is the Eremo most peaceful and least crowded? Recently I walked up early on a weekday morning and arrived in time for Matins (7:10 a.m.) and Mass (7:30 a.m.) with the four Franciscan brothers and three Poor Clare nuns who call the Eremo home. No other visitors. While the small church in which they hold their services is closed to the day's crowd of tourists, they are very welcoming to those who come to share in their prayers and services. The church itself is built into the side of the mountain; a rock section of which extends into the nave.

Even much of the way down from the Eremo the views are wonderful.

Finally, a favorite 1930's description tying together the Eremo delle Carceri, Saint Francis and the natural beauty of Mount Subasio, by the French philosopher Simone Weil, reads, "Little had I dreamt that such a marvelous place existed. I would have stayed for the rest of my life - if only women were accepted - at the tiny monastery of the Carceri, an hour and fourteen minutes walk up the mountainside from Assisi. No more heavenly and tranquilizing sight exists than Umbria as seen from up there. Saint Francis certainly knew how to choose the most ravishing spots in which to practice poverty: He was far from being an ascetic…."

Ciao.

Assisi Views

Here are a few pictures from around Assisi in recent days, no single theme. A view of Mount Subasio from the valley floor.

And an early morning one from town.

A nice terra-cotta work over a streetlamp.

Early morning, the Basilica of Saint Francis.

The entry to the lower church of the Basilica, later in the day.

An interesting window frame.

This last one comes with an explanation. I've written before about the window messages on this building, the Palazzo Bonacquisti, located on the Piazza del Comune. But I've learned a bit more about this first in a row of messages. The Palazzo Bonacquisti was built in the 16th Century by Galeazzo Filippo Pomponio Bonacquisti, Count of Panzo, which I know thanks to a fine book entitled, Guide to Assisi History and Art, which can be purchased, coincidently, at the bookstore on the ground floor of the Palazzo Bonacquisti. Now, if you look closely at the letters above the shutters, you'll see they closely resemble Galezzo's family name, but are different. He appears to have made an intentional play on words. The letters read, BONA ACQUISITA, basically meaning, DO GOOD. (Or perhaps, more broadly, acquire goodness.) Good name; good message.
So, bona acquisita e ciao!

Hiking Mount Subasio

Assisi, for those who have never visited, sits on the side of Mount Subasio. One can hardly approach the town from any direction without being impressed by this distinct and singular mountain. Assisi slants upward in her direction. Climbing Subasio on foot begins before even passing through the city's upper gate.

Subasio is rich in natural beauty and history, has numerous hiking trails, and has long served as a spiritual haven. Many hikers contemplating visits to Assisi may wonder about the nature and accessibility of Subasio's trails. Is it a challenging hike to the Eremo delle Carceri? Are there ways leading to the summit? What are the weather conditions like?
Let's begin with this last question. The summer brings mild, even hot days to the mountain, while winter brings icy cold winds and snow. Spring brings both. So, for example, you may awake in late March to see the summit coated with snow, or you may awake to a near perfect cool, clear hiking day. On a partly sunny day in Assisi the mountain may be enveloped in dense clouds offering just a few yards of visibility. So, watching the weather and choosing trails carefully are important before setting out. If the forecast looks bad, stay closer to town and enjoy the flowers.

Subasio's lower trails are easily accessible from locations around the base of the mountain. From Assisi,  the closest way to begin is by passing through Porta Cappuccini, the highest city gate. Recently, new trail signs were placed on Subasio, and one of them stands just beyond the gate.

From there, on Trail #50 a walker may start out for the Eremo dell Carceri or for the high country. There are even some unofficial Franciscan trail markers, as observed by this Peace of Tau blog.

The lower part of the trail is rocky and steep in places, and in rainy or hot weather walkers hoping to reach the Eremo might find following the country road more manageable. With most any path, road or trail, you will have good views back of Assisi.

Those wishing to bypass the Eremo and head directly for the high country may want to turn left onto Trail #53 where it intersects with Trail #50 after a steep section of climbing. From higher up on Trail #53 one can either follow the dirt road to the summit, or continue on the trail and pick up Trail #61, which also leads to the top.
For those walking the road, with a brisk pace, the Eremo can be reached in less than an hour, and it takes about two hours to approach the tree line.
The trails leading to the tree line do have steep, rocky sections, but generally involve gradual climbing on good paths.

By late March there are no shortage of wildflowers along the trails.

When the pavement ends for road walkers, and trail hikers come out of the forests, the views open wide. The view below, just above the tree line, includes the summit area in the distance to the left of center, Colle San Rufino to the right, and a mountain sculpture to the far left.

This day was a bit hazy, but the off mountain views were still fine.

While usually there are few hikers about in March, one does encounter other high country visitors.

There is much to see high up on Subasio, including natural formations called mortari that resemble sinkholes in appearance.

Here's Mortaro Grande, a nice "hike within a hike" to reach the bottom.

Subasio's summit can be approached from any direction and it is well marked. It sits on a grassy rise with spectacular views in every direction. On a clear day it's an easy approach, roughly 3 - 4 hours above Assisi. On a day when the summit is clouded and visibility low, it can be a challenge to find, even from the dirt road that passes high over the mountain.

When starting back down there are a few trail options, including those heading to Assisi, to the Eremo or to Costa di Trex (a few miles from Assisi). There's also the dirt road, the path of choice when the weather is suspect. Starting down this day on Trail #50, which can be picked up below the dirt road between the summit and the radio towers, I observed someone who had recently taken flight.

That's one way to descend the mountain. A stretch of great views included a glimpse of Assisi from just off the trail.

Trail #50 eventually passes through an area of gentle hills.

Here there are usually horses about, grazing or getting a refreshing drink at an old stable.

Finally, after a couple of hours descending, it's back through Porta Cappuccini into town, ready for a pizza at the I Monaci restaurant.

***

Here's a few tips for first time hikers. 

• Try to pick up a trail map before starting out. Zubboli's Bookstore on Assisi's Piazza del Comune may have them available, or the nearby Tourist Information Office may know where one can be found.
• Check the weather forecast, then be prepared for the worst case scenario. Subasio can cloud in with strong winds, severe cold, rain or snow during much of the year. Wear layers, as a cold morning can turn into a mild and sunny afternoon.
• If you only have a few hours, enjoy walking up to and exploring the Eremo delle Carceri. If you have more time, consider heading off on some of Subasio's more remote trails, exploring the mortari, searching for the abandoned town of Gabbiano Vecchio, climbing on Colle San Rufino (where some of Assisi earliest settlers lived and where a makeshift shrine may be found), or simply heading up trails or dirt roads to the summit. 
• Hang gliding? You're on your own.
• Bring plenty of food and, especially, water. Seeing pilgrims trying to make their way up to the Eremo around noon on a warm, sunny day without water is not a pretty site.
• Start out early, at about daylight for a climb to the summit. A cool uphill climb is easier and there's essentially no early morning traffic on the lower road. In fact, you may not encounter anyone on foot or in vehicles, and you'll get to experience the serenity of Subasio from the moment you pass through Porta Cappuccini. You'll also have more time to explore.

Ciao.