Rainy Day in Assisi

What to do in Assisi on a rainy day?
The past few weeks in Italy have been marked by rain, rain and more rain. For Assisi visitors, this can limit opportunities to hike on Mount Subasio, to explore the surrounding Umbrian countryside, to leisurely stroll back streets or to enjoy an outdoor cappuccino on the Piazza del Comune. This post is for potentially deluged visitors seeking mostly dry ways to spend a day. Here are some options.

• Visit the Basilica of Saint Francis  -  There's an incredible amount to take in here, starting with Giotto's frescos in the upper church. In the lower church are depictions of Francis and Clare mentioned in my last post, as well as a small room off the back with items from the time of Francis. Anyone spending more than a few days in Assisi might want to pick up a copy of the Guide to Assisi History and Art (available in English in Assisi bookstores) for an opportunity to appreciate, in depth, the art of the Basilica and other locations. Below the lower church is the crypt of Saint Francis, a special place to spend quiet time. Finally, behind the basilica, part way up from the lower to the upper church, is a gift store with a wide selection of items. 

• Spend time browsing in shops on or near the Piazza del Comune  -  A couple worth visiting are Zubboli, which carries a wide selection of books and paper goods (check out the Advent calendars), and Alice (pronounced ah-lee-chay), which offers nice hand-painted shirts and other handicrafts.

• Enjoy a cappuccino at Bar Sensi or a pizza at I Monaci  -  Bar Sensi is a fine spot to enjoy a morning cappuccino, located part way between the Basilica of Saint Clare and the Piazza del Comune. For an early afternoon or evening wood-fired pizza, visit I Monaci, located about one third of the way down from the Piazza del Comune on the way to the Basilica of Saint Francis, part way down a flight of stairs off the small Piazzetta Verdi.

• Visit the museum at the Cathedral of San Rufino  -  Besides housing the baptismal font of Saints Francis and Clare, Assisi's Cathedral has much art and a beautiful side chapel reserved for prayer. However, it also houses a special museum in ancient rooms below the church, containing frescos, paintings, precious objects, even part of a third century sarcophagus. It's a very interesting place to visit rain or shine. There's a 3 euro entry fee for the museum, which is entered by descending steps towards the back of the church.

• Take in the frescos at the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, or the quiet at the Church of Santo Stefano. A nice thing about Assisi's local churches is that (at appropriate times) cameras are allowed. Definitely bring a camera if you visit the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, as it contains several beautiful frescos, some partial and some recovered and restored after a 1997 earthquake. A quarter mile away, weaving uphill through alleys to the west, is the Church of Santo Stefano, a good place for quiet contemplation. Santo Stefano dates back to before the birth of Saint Francis.

As you enjoy the above, keep an eye on the sky. The sun has a way of breaking through suddenly in Assisi.
Ciao.