Saturday, March 24, 2018

Snow on Mount Subasio - Part I

According to the calendar, Spring has arrived in Assisi. However, Winter is having trouble letting go. A couple of days ago the rains started letting up, only to be replaced by cold temperatures and strong winds. At times, the clouds would break and one could glimpse the top of Mount Subasio, which appeared rather more like a Nepal peak than a gentle Apennine. When the visibility improved, the higher reaches of the mountain were still coated in white.
So, it was time to trek up there and check matters out. In March, on any given day the top of Subasio can be sunny and pleasant, excellent hiking weather. The next day can be stormy, fogged in, freezing and unwelcoming. Hikers should check forecasts and dress accordingly, keeping in mind how conditions can change rapidly. The road near the Eremo delle Carceri provided a view of a snow dusted Colle San Rufino.
There were a few other hikers out on the lower part of the mountain, and one grazing bovine, interested primarily in the roadside dining opportunities.
About a mile further up the ground had a light snow cover, as did the trees, making for a pretty setting.
Interestingly, the snow only took to one side of the trees, probably the result of strong winds, moist flakes and fast dropping temperatures.
Soon the wide, rolling upper part of Subasio was in view.
From this point on conditions worsened, with a raw cold and near constant wind gusts. In some places underfoot was caked with ice and snow. Plus, clouds were gathering in a not-terribly-threatening but not-very-encouraging manner. 
The views toward the summit called for continuing upward. 
However, with a freezing temperature and wind gusts above 40 miles per hour, it was time to turn back. When conditions deteriorate and clouds suddenly swallow up the visibility, the top of Subasio is not a particularly safe place to be. 
Once beyond the ice, I began a rapid descent, but not before taking in a view of Colle San Rufino, where some of this region's earliest settlers lived.
Further down was the Eremo delle Carceri.
Here's a closer picture of where Francis and his followers would retreat to the forest to pray, as his followers do to this day.
And finally, on the lower road, Assisi is back in view.
Being on Subasio in March can mean weather extremes, both good and bad. For hikers interested in going to the top, April and May offer more opportunities. During dryer weather, Subasio has many wonderful trails, some with few visitors. It's a fine place to seek and find tranquility, as Francis discovered eight centuries ago.
Ciao.

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