Assisi 2020 - VI

This is the sixth in a series of posts sharing information and perspectives on the lives of Saints Francis and Clare, life in Assisi and seeking to follow Franciscan values in today's world.

Gospel Quote - Matthew 7: 1-2. "Do not judge, so that you in turn may not be judged. For you will be judged in the same way that you judge others, and the measure that you use for others will be used to measure you."

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Umbrian Adventures - Many people are familiar with the story of how Francis returned his earthly possessions to his earthly father, intent on following his Father in Heaven. Following this encounter, Francis set out for the town of Gubbio, about 31 miles north of Assisi. Trails now trace the paths he likely followed. The following updated post is from 2017.

Three years ago (2014), I wrote about a hike along the trails connecting the Umbrian towns of Gubbio and Assisi. These trails are special because they follow the footsteps of Saint Francis, who traversed the forests, hills and valleys separating the two ancient towns many times. Much of the way is still rural and pristine enough that one can imagine sharing the paths and dirt roads with the young Francis, sharing in the natural beauty of Umbria.
On my first hike, a missed trail turn led to a challenging stretch of walking through mud flats of the Chiascio River. While that oozing experience turned out well (apparently Francis, too, made his way through the Chiascio's mud), it was a bit disappointing to miss a section of forest paths before linking back up with the main trails. So, when an opportunity recently arose to again hike from Gubbio to Assisi, there was no turning it down.
I set out at 5:30 a.m. from the Church of the Vittorina, built where Francis tamed the wolf of Gubbio. For those not familiar with this legend, a large wolf had been terrorizing Gubbio for some time, even killing its citizens. Francis, who loved animals, went outside the city walls to talk with the wolf, in the name of God, and tamed him, laying out an understanding that the people of Gubbio would give the wolf food in exchange for being left in peace. A postscript to this Thirteenth Century legend is that, in 1872, some laborers, doing renovation work in the area where the tamed animal supposedly was buried, dug up the centuries-old remains of a large wolf.
It was still dark when I began walking from the Church of the Vittorino.

The first stretch of trail, basically a flat combination of dirt and paved roads through the pleasant town of Ponte d'Assi, led to a few turns and crossings before the road began to climb, moving through farmland.

A bit of morning fog actually made for nice walking conditions. The path became steeper approaching the high forest ridge, but once over the top the dirt road became even more scenic and tranquil.

A plus of hiking in the Spring is Umbria's wildflowers.

This would be a long post indeed if it included all of the old churches, ancient ruins and historic landmarks between Gubbio and Assisi. I had already walked past a number of such sites. However, one special gem worth visiting, located in the forest far from anything else, is the tiny church of the Madonna delle Ripe.

This is a place where pilgrims may pray. It also appears to be a place where people leave their small written petitions or mementos or keepsakes, as if seeking to keep alive special prayers or memories by leaving something tangible there.

Everything from rosaries to ribbons to crosses to flowers adorn the entry gate. Inside is an altar and a well-preserved segment of a fresco.

After a brief but inspiring stop, I continued along a dirt road at a brisk pace, eventually going past the hermitage of San Pietro in Vigneto, a large stone structure set back from a closed gate, built by Benedictines and dating back to at least the Fourteenth Century. Here the trail descended into dense woods. A small wild boar scampered by. This was where, three years earlier, I had missed a trail marker and ended up down by the Chiascio River. Things went better this time, although the path soon turned steep and narrow as it ascended after a stream crossing. At around 9:40 a.m. I came upon the Church of Caprignone.
This important landmark in Franciscan history was where in 1223, when Francis was still alive, his followers held their first chapter meeting away from Assisi.

This church is actually built over the remains of an earlier church, and nearby are the remains of an even earlier pagan temple. The old wooden door was locked closed, but a large crack near the bottom of the door provided just enough of an opening to take a picture of the interior.

Would sure like a chance to go inside and take a closer look at the fresco work on the right. After a short break, it was more uphill climbing in the direction of the Castle of Biscina. I've mentioned "trails" in the plural, as their are a few different pathways one may follow, with different markings. Here was a place where four ran together and their markings managed to appear on a single rock outcrop.

The Castle of Biscina was a strategically located outpost between Gubbio and Perugia, of critical importance during a Thirteenth Century conflict between those states. On a north-south hike, it is easily viewed from a distance in either direction.

It is an impressive landmark when viewed from afar, less so from up close where, like several other structures along the trail, it is slowly giving way to the elements. Damages from a 1984 earthquake did not help matters. Beyond Biscina, the trail continued to curve around deep ravines, occasionally dropping down before climbing back up. In some steep places steps were constructed to make the trail passable in rainy weather.

This was a particularly beautiful section of the trail, with no shortage of wildflowers.

After a long stretch of forested trail, I crossed onto a section of paved road that led up to the small Church of Sambuco. The date being April 25, Liberation Day in Italy, a large number of extended family members with ties to the hamlet of Sambuco were gathered in and around the church, as they are every year on this date. It was nice to see such a spirited gathering, even as a sermon from within the Church was being broadcast over a loudspeaker. However, with it being midday and with many miles to go, I continued on back into the forest. After a rugged uphill stretch of trail, the views opened back up.

Where the land extends out from the top left of the above picture is the Castle of Biscina, in the middle is the Chiascio River, and to the right is the Eleventh Century Church of Coccorano.
The Church of Coccorano currently is undergoing a long-term renovation, although noticeable progress has been made over the past three years. An adjoining castle did not fare so well, as little remains of it. From here it was back into the forest, then down to a country road with more wildflowers.
Approaching Valfabbrica, the one large town between Gubbio and Assisi, I passed the Church of San Benedetto e Paolino, which was around before the time of Francis, and was likely a stopping point on his travels.

Before reaching the edge of town, a country residence caught my eye, with an excellent entry gate and a nice old car on the driveway.

The Latin "Pax et bonum", or Italian "Pace e bene" or "Peace and goodness" were the words Francis used to greet people. On the gate they are complemented with a dove with an olive branch. The car appears to be a late 1960's or 1970's Citroen, a classy classic automobile. Although, not quite as fine a mode of transportation as walking. In Valfabbrica, at around 2:30 p.m., the sun was warming and it was a bit disappointing to find a fountain not working, as my water bottles were running low.

I passed through this mostly quiet town quickly. "Mostly quiet" because there is a fruit and vegetable vendor who drives about town in a truck, announcing his arrival in various neighborhoods over a loudspeaker. Sort of like an ice cream truck, only healthier.
The next stretch of walking proved a bit challenging. I was now counting on filling a water bottle at a fountain at the foot of a steep trail ascending to a ridge from where Assisi would be visible in the distance. Unfortunately, this fountain also was dry and, being well beyond Valfabbrica, turning back to look for a market was not a good option. So, the next hour was a slow, steep and thirsty trek, leading to the top where, thankfully, a third fountain gave forth a nice flow of cold water.
Assisi was in sight. The last few miles of walking offered some fine views.
The trail was now a well maintained dirt road and would be mostly downhill until the last mile. Assisi's Rocca Maggiore could be seen on a distant hilltop.

By the small old Church of Santa Croce at the foot of the road leading up to Assisi, Irises were growing next to a stone wall.

Here's a view back of the countryside after crossing over the ridge that separates Valfabbrica and Assisi.

And, finally, close to 6:00 p.m., it was time to enter Assisi through one of its gates, Porta San Giacomo.

For those considering this walk, Gubbio to Assisi is typically a two day trek, with hikers often spending the night in Valfabbrica. That's a good option for those seeking to maintain an easy pace with some extra time to explore. Single day hikers are well advised to choose a day with long hours of daylight, when rain has not fallen for a couple of days and is not in the forecast, nor are extremes of heat, cold or wind. In short, pick a day with great weather and start out at the first sign of light. Carry plenty of water and food. You may want to visit   http://www.caigubbio.it/francescano/GPS/francescano_gps.html    and print out the maps of the various trail sections. They can be very useful in uncertain situations. Also, before starting out, read up on Saint Francis and the events of his life transpiring between Assisi and Gubbio. The walk is best made following in his steps both on foot and in spirit. 

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Reflections - I recently finished rereading I Promessi Sposi (The Betrothed) by Alessandro Manzoni, one of the most popular novels in Italian literature, along with Dante's Divine Comedy. It contains a lengthy and detailed description of the plague which brought extensive suffering and death to Milan around the year 1630. In some ways the uncertainties, fears, rumors and examples of both selfishness and selflessness are not all that different than what we have been experiencing with the coronavirus. Manzoni reveals much about faith, love and human nature. Some of the closing words of I Promessi Sposi are worthy of reflection... "misfortunes most commonly happen to us from our own misconduct or imprudence; but sometimes from causes independent of ourselves; that the most innocent and prudent conduct cannot always preserve us from them; and that, whether they arise from our own fault or not, trust in God softens them, and renders them useful in preparing us for a better life." 

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Something Franciscan - The original San Damiano Cross may now be found in a chapel of the Basilica of Saint Clare in Assisi. On weekdays, there is a 7:15 a.m. Mass, occasionally attended by groups of pilgrims, but regularly celebrated by Franciscans in the presence of cloistered Poor Clare nuns and a handful of devout locals. 

All Masses are sacred; to celebrate and reflect in the presence of this Cross can be inspiring.

Pax et bonum.