This is the seventh in a series of posts sharing information and perspectives on the lives of Saints Francis and Clare, life in Assisi and seeking to follow Franciscan values in today's world.
Gospel Quote - Mark 2: 16-17. Some scribes who were Pharisees noticed that Jesus was eating with sinners and tax collectors, and they asked his disciples, "Why does he eat with tax collectors and sinners?" When Jesus overheard this remark, he said, "It is not the healthy who need a physician, but rather those who are sick. I have come to call not the righteous but sinners."
***
Umbrian Adventure - Saints Francis and Clare were born at a time when the Benedictines were very active in Umbria, having been around for centuries. Norcia in Umbria, birthplace of Saints Benedict and Scholastica, was devastated by an earthquake in 2016. The following is an update on a 2017 visit there.
Traveling from Assisi to Norcia involved walking down to the Santa Maria degli Angeli train station to take a half hour train ride to Spoleto, and from there riding a bus for about an hour up a narrow, winding and scenic road. Norcia sits on a high plain by Sibillini Mountains National Park, a rugged and beautiful part of central Italy.
For many years, travelers to Norcia could look forward to visiting a well preserved Umbrian walled city with much history, perhaps most notably being the home of twin-sibling Saints Benedict and Scholastica, born in the year 480. However, in the summer and autumn of 2016, Norcia was struck by devastating earthquakes, resulting in extensive damage to the town. One need not even pass through one of Norcia's gates to begin to witness the impact of the quakes.
Prior to setting out, I had studied a map to determine, from the bus stop, which gate to enter and how to weave through Norcia's streets to the center of town where the remains of the Basilica of Saint Benedict are located. However, just inside the walls it became clear that the maze of old streets had become a complex entanglement of blockades.
Many streets, including all inside of this gate, were blocked on this day. Typically, signs would indicate a "Zona Rossa" or "Red Zone" with entry prohibited.
Even streets that appeared safe could have buildings in danger of falling. I walked back out onto the perimeter road and hiked up to and through a second gate. There too many streets were blocked. Seeking to find a way to the center of town, I stopped and asked a lady for directions. She pointed the way I was heading, but said one must be very careful because of falling debris. I thanked her and walked a bit further, to where two men were working. As there was a barrier across the road to prevent vehicle traffic, I asked them if I could pass through. Their response was an unequivocal "No."
Having reached a dead end, I started back up to the second gate, only to have the lady with whom I had spoken pull up in a car. After a moment's discussion she indicated that I should hop in and she would take me to where I could reach the main square.
We rode further around the perimeter road, past more scenes of loss, and finally came to a guarded but open gate and a main road leading directly to the main square. I thanked my guide for her help and kindness, got out and started along the street, one of the few places in town that seemed recovered enough for normal activity.
Ahead was a statue of Saint Benedict, but also a disheartening scene. While the facade of the Basilica of Saint Benedict remains standing, the church itself was mostly leveled.
The extensive staging may help in preserving the facade, but it is clear that rebuilding the Basilica will take years. Next to the remains of the Basilica is the Palazzo Comunale and bell tower, which also appears in a precipitous state.
As if losing a treasure like the Basilica of Saint Benedict wasn't enough, other churches in town also sustained major damage. Earlier, when going around the perimeter road, my helpful driver had pointed out the Church of San Giovanni, which turned out to be accessible via a few open streets.
Here, too, was a discouraging scene. There was a large hole in a side wall of the Church.
Despite so much devastation, the people of Norcia may pray thankfully, being spared loss of life as occurred in other nearby communities. On the higher end of town, reconstruction and preservation efforts were underway on the Church of Saint Anthony. Heavy beams were being lifted into place.
The oldest structures in town seemed the hardest hit, likely due to less sturdy construction practices in centuries past. In a town where many residences also are centuries old, parts of homes were destroyed as well. One building that appeared to survive intact was the town theater.
Also of interest, while I'm not sure how the earthquakes impacted banks within Norcia's walls, now modular banking facilities have been set up in a parking lot outside of those walls.
I mentioned Norcia being by Sibillini Mountains National Park. There are beautiful views in all directions, and undoubtedly good hiking nearby.
Finally, who were Saints Scholastica and Benedict of Nursia? (Nursia was the Latin name of Norcia) Twins born in the Fifth Century, Benedict is perhaps best known for the Rule of Saint Benedict, guidelines for the monks who followed him and for many future religious orders, while Scholastica established the first Benedictine community for women. Benedict is considered the father of Western monasticism. Some seven centuries after the time of Benedict, his followers would be instrumental in turning over old churches to be repaired by a young man from Assisi named Francis.
As Benedict's legendary status seems to overshadow his sister's holy life, I was pleased to notice the name of the small square where I waited to start my return trip home.
Before leaving Norcia, I was speaking with a local and observed how, despite all of the destruction, it was still a beautiful town. He agreed, but wondered how much it mattered with all that had been lost and how community life had been impacted. Nevertheless, with each day Norcia edges a step forward on the long journey of recovery, and one could sense the faith and hope of its residents, still blessed from above.
Four years have passed since the earthquake, and efforts to reconstruct the town of Norcia continue. A webcam view of the Basilica of Saint Benedict and the bell tower indicate substantial work remains.
***
Reflections - Often in Assisi I run into a penitent friend named Massimo. Many a visitor may recall him as the fellow dressed in sackcloth who sometimes preaches on the Piazza del Comune. He is a kind and thoughtful person.
One time I noticed he appeared worn down, so I inquired about his health. He responded with, "What matters is the health of the soul." A good reminder, even during this time of pandemic, when concerns about physical well-being are so strong.
Another time I saw him during Assisi's annual Calendimaggio event, a time of much revelry, drinking and celebration. As he seemed concerned about what was going on around us, I mentioned that Francis, in his youth, was among the foremost of Assisi's revelers. Massimo responded, "That's the problem. People know how to imitate the young Francis, but they haven't learned to imitate the older Francis." Another good point.
***
Something Franciscan - Many Assisi pilgrims visit San Damiano and the adjacent monastery, where Clare and her followers lived, prayed and worked. However, other than stepping into a small shrine at the location of her childhood home by the Cathedral of San Rufino, few ever see other places in the future saint's life. One was high up on a densely wooded part of Mount Subasio, a place called Sasso Rosso (red rock), where Clare's family had a castle and where she spent parts of her childhood. Getting there requires a bit of a trek over a narrow trail, and little is left of the castle, although sections of stone remain.
Clare would have enjoyed some beautiful views from this home.
A second special place is the Church of San Paolo delle Abbadesse, in nearby Bastia Umbra, where Clare sought refuge with Benedictine nuns the night she slipped away from her parent's home in Assisi to become a follower of Francis.
Clare's Uncle Monaldo showed up at San Paolo to try to drag her home, and the scene became a bit much for the nuns. Under the protection of Francis and his early followers, Clare soon had to flee again, this time to a monastery about two kilometers from Assisi called Sant'Angelo in Panzo.
Clare was joined there by one of her sisters, who had taken the name Agnes. Uncle Monaldo showed up again, with help, determined to literally carry Agnes home. His henchmen set her down for a moment on the way out, only to find that, miraculously, they could no longer lift her off the ground. Monaldo and his men abandoned their efforts in frustration. The two sisters went on to become two of Assisi's Saints, Chiara and Agnese.
Pax et bonum.
No comments:
Post a Comment