Ten Spiritual Things to Do in Assisi

There is no shortage of "Things to Do" lists for Assisi, including dining, art, history, nature and shopping experiences. Since most visitors arrive, at least in part, inspired by the lives of Saints Francis and Clare, the list below is for those seeking to share in Assisi's spiritual life. In no particular order (all are heavenly), are ten spiritual "things to do" in Assisi.

Before starting out, go to the information office at one end of Assisi's central Piazza del Comune and request a free map and a schedule (orario) of church services, which at least includes Mass times for larger churches.

1. Participate in the 9:00 a.m. Sunday Mass at the Church of Santo Stefano. This small neighborhood church, built about two decades before Francis was born, is a place where the saint likely prayed, being not far from his boyhood home. The facade of the Church looks much like it did eight centuries ago. Here, in the very heart of Assisi, one is close to her people, both present and past. On a recent Sunday, the service was being broadcast to share with those homebound during the pandemic.

2. Participate in a 7:15 a.m. weekday Mass under the original San Damiano Cross at the Basilica of Saint Clare. Join the Poor Clares (who are unseen in the right transept) for Mass following their morning prayers. The chapel is built over the foundation of the Church of Saint George, where Saint Francis went to school as a child, to the right of the main entrance in the picture below.

3. Join Franciscan priests, nuns and friars for the 7:15 a.m. weekday Mass in the Basilica of Saint Francis, surrounded by art and history, and before an altar resting over the tomb of Saint Francis. The lower church may be accessed by following the wide walkway down just to the left of the picture below.

4. Rather than filing through the crypt of Saint Francis' tomb with thousands later in the day, be there at 6:00 a.m., when the lower church opens, descend the stairs and join a handful of others in peaceful prayer.

5. Attend Sunday morning Mass at the lovely small neighborhood Church of Santa Margherita, located above and overlooking the Basilica of Saint Francis. This Franciscan church was built a couple of decades following the time of Francis. In the past, Mass has been at 10:00 a.m., but on a recent Sunday the service started earlier.

6. Attend the 6:00 p.m. Mass in the beautiful Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament in the Cathedral of San Rufino, located to the right as you enter the church. If there is singing, the sounds sometimes seem to echo off the ceiling, as if the congregation is being joined by angelic participants. Close by is the baptismal font of Francis and Clare.

7. Travel a couple of miles down the hill to Santa Maria degli Angeli to visit the Porziuncola, or "Little Portion" of Saint Francis, the home of his order, where he lived and prayed. It is a very small church located inside a very large basilica, not difficult to find. Crowded or not, it's a blessing to be able to spend a few moments in prayer inside the Little Portion.

Very close by is the location of the Transitus of Saint Francis, where he passed on to his eternal life. A beautiful painting suggests an image of the moment.

8. From Assisi, walk down and visit the Church of San Damiano, which Saint Francis helped to rebuild, and walk through where Saint Clare and her first followers lived. If off to an early start, share in a 7:30 a.m. Mass there. The walk down and climb back up is fairly steep, affording more time for prayer and contemplation, not to mention exercise.

9. For the truly hardy, leave Assisi around 6:00 a.m., pass under Porta Cappuccini, and walk the Mount Subasio road up to the Eremo della Carceri, where Francis and his earliest followers used to go for quiet and prayer. There is a 7:30 a.m. Mass, and visitors are welcomed to join the Eremo's residents in prayer. The small chapel is actually built into the side of the mountain. It is a place of silence and beauty.

10. Finally, even on days when thousands of visitors are passing through Assisi, it is possible to walk quiet back streets and find places for prayer. The spiritual life of Assisi is found both without and within. And the teachings of Saint Francis are as alive and inspiring today as they were eight centuries ago. Legend has it that Francis preached to the birds. The birds appear to be still listening...

...hopefully we are, too.

La pace sia con te. Peace be with you.

Mass under the San Damiano Cross

Arriving a little early for this morning's 7:15 a.m. Mass in the Chapel of the Crucifix in the Basilica of Saint Clare, I found myself alone in prayer before the San Damiano Cross, below which Saint Francis heard a voice asking that he "rebuild my Church."

Actually, I wasn't entirely alone. Out of sight in the right transept the Poor Clares were singing their morning prayers. It is difficult to find words to describe the beauty, clarity and solemnity of the moment. As a Franciscan, it was time close to Francis and Clare. As a Catholic, a time of awareness of the intense, heavenly Love of our Father. As a person, a moment of appreciation of the sanctity of all humanity, and of knowing that God's Love will prevail over all that is misguided and evil in the world today.  

The San Damiano Cross speaks to us, as well. We, too, need to continually work to repair our lives and the Church of which we are a part, with the same humility and love as Francis and Clare.

Three other congregants arrived for Mass, an early start to a day filled with grace and blessings.

Peace and goodness be with you.

Visiting Assisi during the Coronavirus

As travel resumes around the world, questions abound about what's open, what's changed and what are the health safety rules. Here are a few tips and anecdotes from Assisi.

First, if one has an aversion to wearing masks, don't book a flight yet. Masks are required to enter Assisi churches, restaurants, shops... most every public indoor setting. It is not just a suggestion; if one enters a church without a mask on, one may expect to be stopped within seconds and shown the exit door.

Second, certain Masses may not yet be fully accessible to everyone, due to space limitations, keeping seating safely spaced in the churches.

Third, while certain businesses have closed, many excellent restaurants and gift shops remain open. Menu's may be a bit shorter, and seating either spread out or moved outdoors, but there are still plenty of good options.

Fourth, U.S. citizens may be required to show an I.D. and a white vaccination card to enter a restaurant.

***

One recent morning the doors didn't even open for the early morning Mass at the Basilica of Saint Clare.

Thankfully, some waiting nuns quickly led the way to the nearby Church of San Quirico for a slightly later Mass.

On a Sunday, as the hour approached for the early Mass at the Basilica of Saint Clare (which is held in a chapel that is home to the San Damiano cross, and can seat perhaps 30-40 safely), a tour group of about 40-50 could be seen filing into the Church, then promptly filing back out. A few minutes later there was no problem entering solo.

Even at the Eremo della Carceri, on the side of Mount Subasio, where Francis and his early followers would go to pray, access to the small chapel for a morning Mass is restricted to a certain safe number. 

Thankfully, following an early morning hike, there was room for one more to join six priests/brothers, three nuns and three other lay people for Mass. 

As for dining, I've only been "white carded" at one restaurant thus far, that being I Monaci.

However, I Monaci's very excellent pizza made it well worthwhile.

The crowds that descend on Assisi around Easter seemed not quite as large this year, but still were substantial, keeping it a very busy place. 

Yet as busy as some days get, early morning walks here are nearly always tranquil and uncrowded.

Of the two gates in this photo, the newer, distant one is about 700 years old, whereas the older, closer one defined the city wall long before the time of Saint Francis.

For over two thousand years Assisi has survived everything from barbarian invasions to plagues (losing about half of its population to the Black Death in 1348). Her residents have been enduring a difficult time, as has much of Italy and the world. However, one can sense a combination of caution and resilience here, as they gradually reopen doors to a prayerful, hopeful and peace-seeking world.

Ciao.

Easter in Assisi 2022

After a three year hiatus, it is good to be back in Assisi. I arrived during Holy Week, and on Good Friday joined a procession through town, beginning at the Cathedral of San Rufino and ending at the Basilica of Saint Francis. The following photos are in front of the Basilica of Saint Clare. Assisi's Bishop Sorrentino took part in the walk.

In remembrance of Christ carrying the cross.

Several of Assisi's Confraternities joined in the procession.

While thousands gathered for Easter Sunday services in Assisi's Cathedral and two Basilicas, Francis might have appreciated the Easter Vigil Mass at the small neighborhood Church of Santa Margherita.

This church was built in 1246, while Clare was still alive; some early congregants likely knew the two saints. Since its beginning, it has been under the pastoral care of the Conventual Franciscan Friars of the Sacred Convent of Saint Francis. The altar table is made of the same stone that was once part of the original altar over the tomb of Saint Francis.

A small piazza in front of the church overlooks the Basilica of Saint Francis.

On a cool, windy night, about thirty persons were present for the Santa Margherita Easter Vigil service, several of whom were Franciscan priests, nuns, and at least one Third Order pilgrim. 

As midnight approached following the service, a bright moon shone over the home of Saints Francis and Clare.

La pace sia con te, e Buona Pasqua!

Peace be with you, and Happy Easter! 

Assisi 2022

After a three year absence, I'm planning to return to Assisi on April 13. Looking forward to being there for Easter, and hopefully doing some posting. Peace and goodness be with you!