Mount Subasio Walk

This past week Assisi had its share of wind, rain and cold, as if Spring was patiently awaiting a chance to arrive.

Gradually, the sun has been gaining an upper hand.

With the weather starting to improve, I set out early yesterday for a hike on Mount Subasio. With the clocks changing last Sunday, it was still dark passing through town and not a soul was in sight. The road starting up Subasio was empty as well, which made for some good solitary walking. Keeping a good pace, I arrived at the Eremo delle Carceri in less than an hour.
The Eremo has been a sacred place since well before the time of Saint Francis. Set in a dense forest on the side of the mountain, it's where he and his followers used to go for quiet and prayer. Over the centuries, the hermitage there has been added onto, although it is still a very simple and peaceful structure.

Leaving behind my silent trek for a place of silence, I passed through the entry gate and approached the hermitage.

Then continued down a walkway to where my first encounter of the day was with one of the friars. 

No picture taking is allowed inside. However, I entered the small church there just before morning prayers and a Mass were to begin. The church is literally built into the side of the mountain. I sat next to  a rock cropping jutting into the nave. I stayed for the services, a "pellegrino con uno zaino" sharing a special experience with three friars and seven nuns.
Back to hiking, the morning was cold and cloudy, rather good conditions for an uphill trek. Some wind. With the clouds shifting about, occasionally it was possible to see who else was out on the mountain.

Higher up, the wind picked up and the clouds streamed through in bunches. One minute the visibility might be fifty yards, the next fifty miles. After a couple of hours, finding the summit during an in-cloud spell was a bit easier when markers could be seen.

Well, barely seen. It's the little mound to the right of center in the picture.
Finally came the well marked summit, with great views of clouds in every direction.

Having been there many times before, including in worse conditions, it was hardly disappointing, especially since, starting back, the clouds swiftly moved on, opening up some fine vistas.

Including distant mountains.

After a very enjoyable downhill stroll, I approached the Eremo, where the morning's silence had given way to the arrival of many visitors. The entry gate can be seen just beyond the vehicles.

One nice thing about Italy is that even inappropriate things, like graffiti, can have a charming side. Further down the road toward Assisi, someone defaced this stone wall with a message for all who might notice, "Sei bellissima" or "You are very beautiful."

Hopefully not intended for just one person….
A good hike is best followed by a good meal. A favorite place in town for a wood-fired pizza margherita is the I Monaci restaurant, a pleasant setting for dining.

With excellent pizzas.

Ciao.

Easter in Assisi

In recent days tens of thousands of visitors have arrived in Assisi in anticipation of Easter Sunday. They have been touring the larger churches, keeping shops and restaurants busy and crowding the main  roads through town to the chagrin of those daring enough to drive them. Despite a spell of cold weather, families and tour groups and scout troops could be found outdoors enjoying the intermittent sunshine and the anticipation of an important event. On Good Friday, one scout troop convened on the piazza in front of the Basilica of Saint Clare.

That morning I had joined a few hundred locals and visitors in the "Cristo Morto" procession from the Cathedral of Saint Rufino to the Basilica of Saint Francis, stopping at convents along the way to allow the nuns to venerate Christ, whose image, from a centuries old crucifix, was born through the streets.

Local confraternities help facilitate many feast day and holy day events through the year.

On Saturday the crowds continued to grow.

On Saturday evening I started across town early for the 10:00 p.m. Vigil Mass at the small Church of Santa Margherita, where Franciscans have been celebrating Easter since the Thirteenth Century. I ran into an old friend, Massimo, along the way. From the piazza in front of Santa Margherita, there's a fine view of the great Basilica of Saint Francis, and on this cold and quiet night one could anticipate the approaching Easter celebration.

Turning to Santa Margherita, just one visitor had arrived.

Eventually, the church filled with close to seventy people, mostly locals, for a beautiful celebration. Afterwards, midnight approaching, a bright moon and the joyful sounds of church bells made for a special walk back through town.

Near noon on Easter Sunday a long line of visitors had formed waiting to enter the Basilica of Saint Francis.

The morning service at Santa Margherita had ended, but the Easter decorations were still in place.

Of course, the celebrating extended into the streets, where one could readily access good pastry shops.

The bright Easter choices were colorful.

And numerous.

And delightful. Which would you choose?

Buona Pasqua!

Returning to Assisi and the Church of Santo Stefano

It's good to be back in Assisi. My twenty-six hour trip from California went smoothly, with the last two legs being an Alitalia flight from New York's JFK to Rome's Fiumicino Airport, followed by a short flight from Fiumicino to Sant'Egidio, about seven miles from Assisi. Fiumicino can be challenging to navigate, but all went smoothly, as transferring passengers were sent directly to a bus and transported to the local flights terminal. From there, after boarding a propeller plane and waiting behind a line of departing jets, it was a half hour flight before landing at the Sant'Egidio airport, where the runway was empty.

Once settled back in town, I headed down through the Piazza del Comune to a favorite bar/restaurant, poplar among locals, Pizzeria Otello. It's a great place to go after hiking. Also, they consistently accommodate my requests for "molto pane" (lots of bread) to go with orders of lasagna and "vino rosso della casa" (red house wine). Still catching up on sleep.

Assisi is preparing for Easter, just a few days away. Took some pictures on an afternoon walk. One view of town.

Spring is here, but there's snow atop Mount Subasio. A trace of it was visible from the Piazza del Comune, looking past the cupola of the Cathedral of San Rufino.

One need not leave town to undertake uphill climbs.

The columns of the former Temple of Minerva haven't changed much since last year. Or, for that matter, for the past two thousand and forty years or so.

The pastry shops are ready for Easter.

I stopped by the Church of Santo Stefano, built in the year 1166, not many years before the birth of Saint Francis. The facade of this church has changed little over eight centuries; this basically is what Francis would have seen. The church was built by and for the working people of Assisi, plain but (clearly) good construction.

The inside has been carefully remodeled, but retains much of the original materials, design and spirit. In the front below is the baptismal font.

A nice place to sit on a sunny day is the stone wall that winds above Santo Stefano. Legend has it that the evening Saint Francis passed from this life to the next, the bells of Santo Stefano, seen in the center, spontaneously began to ring.

Ciao.

Assisi Spring Visit

After being away since last May, I'm looking forward to returning to Assisi on March23 for about seven weeks. That's just in time for the Easter Vigil Service at the Church of Santa Margherita and for some wonderful Spring hiking. If you are visiting Assisi for the first time and have questions or would like some advice on all there is to see and do there, please leave a comment at this site so I can get back to you.
Usually, in the past, I've arrived in Assisi via train from Florence or Rome. This year I've extended my Alitalia flights to Umbria's nearby Sant'Egidio airport, with the ticket cost from California being comparable to flying to Rome. Hoping it works out well.
As always, looking forward to being in a very special place. Pace e bene.

Biscina, the Church of Caprignone and a dog named Zanna

In a Walking from Gubbio to Assisi post last year, I wrote about missing a trail marker and having to slog through the mudflats of the Chiascio River. As it turns out, my unintended route may well have been the actual path Saint Francis followed when walking between the two towns.

However, deviating from the main trail meant missing two landmarks, the old castle of Biscina and the Church of Caprignone. This year, pushing the bounds of what constitutes a good day hike, I set out from Assisi at 5:00 a.m. on an out and back trek to explore those two sites. After a few hours of walking and having crossed over the Chiascio near the town of Valfabbrica, the castle of Biscina could be seen in the distance.

I had been walking mostly roads to make good time, but now it was onto some nice trails.

Before actually reaching Biscina, it was clear that the 12th Century castle had seen better days.

As wonderful as the area was for hiking, the overgrown ruins of Biscina weren't much to see.

The castle appeared more idyllic from afar.

Now it was on to the Church of Caprignone, set deep in the woods, but eventually coming into view, as seen in the lower left below.

About half way between Biscina and Caprignone, I passed between a country home and its garden, where an elderly woman was working. A barking black dog, of average size, came running toward me, behaving concerned but not angry, yet not fully at ease. The woman called her, and she retreated again before romping in my direction a few more times. I continued on down the hill toward Caprignone.
The Church of Caprignone is an important Franciscan site. Built near an ancient pagan temple and over the ruins of an 11th Century church, it is supposedly where, in 1223, when Francis was still alive, the Franciscans held their first chapter meeting away from from Assisi.

There are some art treasures within; however, no one was about this day to unlock the doors.

Still, it was a beautiful, quiet location, a good place for a break before starting the long trek back.
On the trail again, there are places where Franciscan routes overlap, and one may also see the Franciscan Tau sign.

The trail was decorated with many interesting signs of Spring.

It wasn't until just after passing the garden where I had encountered the dog that I noticed this sign, written in Italian, English and French.

As the print is not very clear, it says, If you are doing the "Saint Francis Walk" you will see me! I'm the "Saint Francis' wolf" and I really love barking! I'm afraid of walking sticks, so I can be agitated. But if you call me ZANNA, you will see, I will become immediately calm! Maybe I will come with you for a few minutes, but then I will go home! - Zanna -   The "Saint Francis' wolf" would be the one of Gubbio, a town several miles away where, according to legend, Francis tamed a large and dangerous wolf. So, should you ever walk between Biscina and the Church of Caprignone, be sure to greet Zanna by her name and to enjoy her company.
As it was still around midday, I ventured off onto other trails for the long trek home. Eventually reaching Valfabbrica, tired and thirsty, I hoped to refill my water bottle at a fountain there, but the fountain was closed, as was the local market. However, about a mile beyond town, sitting on the side of the trail was a flowing fountain!

A little blessing while walking in the footsteps of Saint Francis. A good drink certainly helped in tackling the steep uphill climb from Valfabbrica.
Finally, Assisi came into sight.

I arrived back home a little before 7:00 p.m., having walked about 36 miles, tired but inspired as usual by the beautiful Umbrian countryside. So, that's the story behind the long title of this post.
Ciao.

Walking Up to the Eremo delle Carceri

Many Assisi visitors inquire about the Eremo delle Carceri, the hermitage on Mount Subasio where Francis and his early followers went seeking solitude and to pray. Eight centuries later it is still a place of prayer, surrounded by a wonderful, forested area where one can walk peaceful trails. However, visitors often ask just how much effort it takes to get up there.
One can take a taxi from town. Or one can hike a steep, rocky trail, slippery when wet, that actually comes out above the Eremo before going back down. However, for a first time visitor, in reasonably good shape, a walk up the road may be the best way to go. (There is no evidence of a young Francis ever having taken a taxi.)
If one starts out at Assisi's Porta Cappuccini gate (a bit of an uphill walk itself), and walks at a moderate pace, it takes takes about an hour to reach the Eremo. Best to start early morning, when it is still quiet and the road is empty, especially during times when hundreds of visitors may show up later in the day. And be sure to bring water. The views from the road are wonderful.

Well, at least they improve as the fog lifts.

The road is steadily uphill. A little past halfway, it enters into a sharp "s" curve. There are a total of three "s" curves, the last one being fairly close to the entrance gate. Here's what the Eremo delle Carceri and its surrounding forest look like from above.

People from around the world visit the Eremo. However, if you happen to be Catholic, for a special visit leave Assisi around 6:00 a.m. and take your time. When you arrive at the entry gate, continue along the dirt path and down the narrow walkway into the hermitage. Be silent. No pictures. On your right is the corridor entrance to a small church. Inside you may find the friars and nuns who live at the Eremo saying morning prayers and preparing for a 7:30 Mass. Notice the Subasio rock jutting into the side of the church. Enjoy participating in the service where you will be made to feel welcomed. After Mass, you can explore the Eremo forest or head further up Mount Subasio by road or trails.
In short, if you have a chance, the Eremo delle Carceri is an invigorating walk and a wonderful place to visit.
Ciao.