Assisi Diary - Day 39 - Santa Croce and Flowers

Went to mass this morning at the Monastero di Santa Croce delle Suore Tedesche, a convent of German Capuchin Poor Clare nuns.  I've long admired the pretty, quiet walkway, Via Santa Croce, that extends along the upper part of Assisi, then down under an archway past this convent.  The church has an open section and a cloistered section. 

There's a shrine with flowers where the stairs begin winding back down to town.

After mentioning recently how there seems fewer wildflowers than usual on Subasio this spring, yesterday's trek included miles of country roads in full bloom.

Flowers everywhere.

In pretty combinations.

Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 38 - Gabbiano Vecchio

If one looks at a highly detailed map of Umbria, between the town of Spello and Monte Subasio, where the elevation starts to climb but is still well below the treeline, in a deeply forested area, one may find the words "Gabbiano Vecchio".  A long time ago there was a settlement there, just large enough to have it's own small church, la Chiesetta di Sant' Antonio, dedicated to Saint Anthony.  Not far away from Gabbiano Vecchio, or "Old Gull", is a fountain, Fonte Sermattei, from which water still flows.  But Gabbiano Vecchio was abandoned long ago.  The forest reclaimed the land and anyone hiking nearby could easily miss what remains there.  There are no nearby signs and barely more than a path through the brush off a dirt road for anyone seeking to explore.

With good weather I set off early this morning to look for Gabbiano Vecchio, taking a route past the old Abbazia di San Benedetto, a center of Benedictine life during the time of Francis and much earlier.

Then through the woods past Sasso Rosso, where Clare spent her childhood summers.  Little remains of the castle that stood here eight centuries ago, but there are some signs, like this small section of wall.

Then it was down through the forest, by an area with the reassuring name of Passo del Lupo (Pass of the Wolf).  The trail was steep in places, fairly level in others, with occasional views, generally good for walking.  Although, as time passed, I became concerned about possibly missing my intended destination.  Then came a view through the trees.

I continued on the trail until coming to a dirt road that allowed for doubling back, then found a bit of a path into Gabbiano Vecchio.

Here is what is left of a couple of houses.

Then there is the Chiesetta di Sant'Antonio.

The real treasures are inside.  This is the altar wall.

A closer view of Saint Anthony.

A window on the back wall.  Knowing little about fresco techniques, at best I can say the design work is painted on.

Unfortunately, the roof is badly damaged.  Above one can see some interior decoration, some exterior roofing, and some sky.

Thus far I haven't found much on the history of Gabbiano Vecchio or the Chiesetta.  They are mentioned in some hiking publications for Mount Subasio.  Will look forward to doing research.

Not far away is Fonte Sermattei, one of Subasio's many water sources.

I followed old dirt roads to gravel roads and eventually to paved roads to make my way back to Assisi.  After a while, good signage made getting lost unlikely.

Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 37 - Subasio Sculptures and Wildflowers

Among the interesting sights on Subasio are works by the Italian sculptor Fiorenzo Bacci.  One of them sits high on the mountain and is called "Frate Vento", or "Brother Wind".

A second one is set in Fonte Bregno, and is called "Sora Acqua", or "Sister Water"".

While the late Spring seems to have lessened the numbers of wildflowers on Subasio this year, there are still thousands of them.

Of varying bright colors.

Another pleasant thing about Subasio is that one can be walking or driving along and suddenly come across a nice place for a picnic.  It's as if somehow there are people whose job it is to find and prepare idyllic spots for weary travelers to stop and enjoy their lunches.  This one is close by the Eremo.

It's not uncommon to see families dining well at these pretty locations, enjoying the food and the views.

In town today much work is underway in preparation for the Calendimaggio celebrations.  Will have pictures in the days ahead.

Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 36 - Back on Subasio

Four days ago Mount Subasio was bitter cold, with strong gusts and clouds so dense the visibility dropped to about ten yards.  Today, it may as well have been four months later rather than four days, with June-like weather replacing the February-like conditions.  This was an excellent day for hiking and exploring.
I set out a little before 6:00 a.m., passed the Eremo in less than an hour and was above the tree line not long after.  Left the main dirt road to search for a trail I had been hoping to follow earlier in the week.  This led to some cross-country uphill meadow walking with magnificent views.  Eventually I found the trail.  Most of Subasio's park trails are well marked.

After a while I came upon a water trough, as horses, cattle and sheep all graze on parts of the mountain.

Finding the summit was substantially easier than on Monday.  Here's the marker, placed there by the "Friend's of the Mountain Association"

Now for some exploring.  I had heard that Subasio has sinkholes that in centuries past were packed with snow to form ice for use in the summer.  My destination, not very far from the summit but off the main path, was the "Mortaro Grande" or "Big Sinkhole." (Hope you can stand the suspense.)  Actually, I wasn't sure what to expect.  But, as it turned out, the Mortaro Grande would have lived up to its billing, if it had had one.  An approach view to build some anticipation.

Drawing closer and looking in.

At last, a view of the very deep bottom.

I didn't take the steep makeshift trail to the bottom, not wanting to disturb the not-so-natural rock formations set in place by persons seeking the noteriety of having their names spelled out in stone at the base of the Big Sinkhole.  Besides, it reminded me of the kind of place Princess Buttercup and Wesley might have fallen into in The Princess Bride.

Plenty of wonderful views from high up today.

After the sinkhole I headed in a more southerly direction down to Fonte Bregno and a trail that follows near the treeline in the direction of Assisi.  In places the trail ran next to barbed wire fences, necessitating some caution to avoid snags.

However, after a while, this trail too offered great views.  Colle San Rufino is in the distance.

 At one point there is a cross on a high rock outcropping.  Assisi can be seen down to the right.

From there the trail descended in the direction of the Eremo. 

Having encountered no other hikers for over six hours, I knew the quiet was about to end.  Below the Eremo would be groups and individuals walking up from or back down to Assisi.  Nevertheless, seeing many cheerful (or parched and tired) pilgrims was nice, too, a good way to finish a fine day on the mountain.

Ciao. 

Assisi Diary - Day 35 - Bettona, Part II

In Bettona, the 14th Century Oratorio di San Andrea is not too impressive on the outside.

Far more interesting inside.

Here's a better view of the lower fresco on the left.

So much of the art and so many of the structures in Umbria were in place well before Columbus set sail.  Here's another one of the city gates, more impressive than the pedestrian one I entered.  While the gate, with its coats of arms, is old, I'm not at all sure about the little star ornament sitting atop it.  Let's just call it "post-Roman decorative".

Part of the wall encircling Bettona is Etruscan.  Since Etruscan civilization came to an end around the first century B.C., this wall would be at least 2,100 years old, likely a few centuries older.

Well, it is beginning to show some wear. 

On this quiet morning in town I was passed a few times by a girl on a bike, with her dog, who would stop and talk with people or call up to them at their windows.

In a storefront was an interesting poster for a memorial event taking place that day. 

There were plenty of signs of why Bettona is considered such a beautiful place.

This gate once housed a drawbridge.  No signs of a moat or water to cross.  Perhaps it was just a handy way to descend from a higher elevation.

After spending a while longer roaming around Bettona, I set out to retrace my steps across the valley.  Now, instead of Bettona, it was Assisi growing closer with each mile.  Following a stop in Santa Maria degli Angeli, home was not far away.

After yesterday's Bettona trek, and a likely outing on Subasio tomorrow, this afternoon's agenda is topped by a gelato expedition.

Ciao.

Assisi Diary - Day 34 - Bettona, Part I

Set out early this morning for Bettona, which sits across the valley from Assisi, also strategically high on a hill.  Bettona goes back to pre-Roman Etruscan times, prior to the first century B.C.  A principal concern on this 20+ mile round trip was the roads and how safe they would be for walking.  As it turned out, there were several tight spots; however, despite the narrowness, there was room enough to go forward.  A good two-thirds of the distance was on level terrain crossing the valley.
In the early light descending from Assisi one can see Bettona in the distance.  Look for a white area just above and to the right of the dome of Santa Maria degli Angeli.

Part way there I came upon a tiny 13th Century church, San Francesco dei Mietitori, or San Francescuccio, which, according to the Little Flowers of Saint Francis, was built on a spot where Francis brought forth water to quench the thirst of nearby laborers.

An image on one of the walls.

With the light early morning traffic, within a couple of hours I found myself entering the wider Comune of Bettona.

The city itself is in the distance to the right of the sign.  Bettona was recognized not very long ago as one of the towns "piu belli", or "most beautiful" in Italy.  Given the competition, that's quite a compliment.  The sign also indicates, I think, that it was an "Etruscan fortress to the left of the Tevere river", which undoubtedly is of historical significance.  Also noted for its olive "olio."

Glancing back, the sun was finally gracing Mount Subasio.

A view of Bettona from the three kilometer road ascending from the valley.

A little under three hours from setting out, I walked along Bettona's outer wall.

And found a gate to enter.

Bettona is not nearly as large as Assisi; probably a fifteen minute walk from one end of town to the other.  Shortly after entering I came upon the Church of Sant Maria, part of which goes back to the 13th Century.

The interior of the church is quite beautiful in design and artwork.  Nearby was the Oratorio di San Andrea, where I was able to take a few pictures.

To be continued....