Sunday, April 29, 2012

Assisi Diary - Day 38 - Gabbiano Vecchio

If one looks at a highly detailed map of Umbria, between the town of Spello and Monte Subasio, where the elevation starts to climb but is still well below the treeline, in a deeply forested area, one may find the words "Gabbiano Vecchio".  A long time ago there was a settlement there, just large enough to have it's own small church, la Chiesetta di Sant' Antonio, dedicated to Saint Anthony.  Not far away from Gabbiano Vecchio, or "Old Gull", is a fountain, Fonte Sermattei, from which water still flows.  But Gabbiano Vecchio was abandoned long ago.  The forest reclaimed the land and anyone hiking nearby could easily miss what remains there.  There are no nearby signs and barely more than a path through the brush off a dirt road for anyone seeking to explore.

With good weather I set off early this morning to look for Gabbiano Vecchio, taking a route past the old Abbazia di San Benedetto, a center of Benedictine life during the time of Francis and much earlier.
Then through the woods past Sasso Rosso, where Clare spent her childhood summers.  Little remains of the castle that stood here eight centuries ago, but there are some signs, like this small section of wall.
Then it was down through the forest, by an area with the reassuring name of Passo del Lupo (Pass of the Wolf).  The trail was steep in places, fairly level in others, with occasional views, generally good for walking.  Although, as time passed, I became concerned about possibly missing my intended destination.  Then came a view through the trees.
I continued on the trail until coming to a dirt road that allowed for doubling back, then found a bit of a path into Gabbiano Vecchio.
Here is what is left of a couple of houses.
Then there is the Chiesetta di Sant'Antonio.
The real treasures are inside.  This is the altar wall.
A closer view of Saint Anthony.
A window on the back wall.  Knowing little about fresco techniques, at best I can say the design work is painted on.
Unfortunately, the roof is badly damaged.  Above one can see some interior decoration, some exterior roofing, and some sky.
Thus far I haven't found much on the history of Gabbiano Vecchio or the Chiesetta.  They are mentioned in some hiking publications for Mount Subasio.  Will look forward to doing research.

Not far away is Fonte Sermattei, one of Subasio's many water sources.
I followed old dirt roads to gravel roads and eventually to paved roads to make my way back to Assisi.  After a while, good signage made getting lost unlikely.
Ciao.

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