Friday, April 27, 2012

Assisi Diary - Day 36 - Back on Subasio

Four days ago Mount Subasio was bitter cold, with strong gusts and clouds so dense the visibility dropped to about ten yards.  Today, it may as well have been four months later rather than four days, with June-like weather replacing the February-like conditions.  This was an excellent day for hiking and exploring.
I set out a little before 6:00 a.m., passed the Eremo in less than an hour and was above the tree line not long after.  Left the main dirt road to search for a trail I had been hoping to follow earlier in the week.  This led to some cross-country uphill meadow walking with magnificent views.  Eventually I found the trail.  Most of Subasio's park trails are well marked.
After a while I came upon a water trough, as horses, cattle and sheep all graze on parts of the mountain.
Finding the summit was substantially easier than on Monday.  Here's the marker, placed there by the "Friend's of the Mountain Association"
Now for some exploring.  I had heard that Subasio has sinkholes that in centuries past were packed with snow to form ice for use in the summer.  My destination, not very far from the summit but off the main path, was the "Mortaro Grande" or "Big Sinkhole." (Hope you can stand the suspense.)  Actually, I wasn't sure what to expect.  But, as it turned out, the Mortaro Grande would have lived up to its billing, if it had had one.  An approach view to build some anticipation.
Drawing closer and looking in.
At last, a view of the very deep bottom.
I didn't take the steep makeshift trail to the bottom, not wanting to disturb the not-so-natural rock formations set in place by persons seeking the noteriety of having their names spelled out in stone at the base of the Big Sinkhole.  Besides, it reminded me of the kind of place Princess Buttercup and Wesley might have fallen into in The Princess Bride.

Plenty of wonderful views from high up today.
After the sinkhole I headed in a more southerly direction down to Fonte Bregno and a trail that follows near the treeline in the direction of Assisi.  In places the trail ran next to barbed wire fences, necessitating some caution to avoid snags.
However, after a while, this trail too offered great views.  Colle San Rufino is in the distance.
 At one point there is a cross on a high rock outcropping.  Assisi can be seen down to the right.
From there the trail descended in the direction of the Eremo. 
Having encountered no other hikers for over six hours, I knew the quiet was about to end.  Below the Eremo would be groups and individuals walking up from or back down to Assisi.  Nevertheless, seeing many cheerful (or parched and tired) pilgrims was nice, too, a good way to finish a fine day on the mountain.

Ciao. 

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