Peace of Tau: May 2011

Many travelers to Assisi arrive by bus. Their tour group disembarks either near the Basilica of Saint Francis or, at the other end of town, near the Basilica of Saint Clare. They follow their leader, who waves a flag, banner or umbrella in the air, and march back and forth through town along the main street, visiting the two basilicas along the way. Groups wear matching orange hats or checkered kerchiefs or blue jackets to make staying together easier, so no one is stranded while the others head back to Rome. They see Giotto’s frescoes and a few other things, snap photos, then stop to pick up souvenir trivets, wall hangings, key chains, etc., each with an Assisi name or message. Then it’s back to the bus and down the hill.

Even under structured conditions, Assisi is a nice place to visit.

But what if, in a moment of distraction, a visitor wanders off the main path, charmed by one of Assisi’s less visited alleys, marked by ancient walls and intriguing architecture, decorated by vines and flowers, then is drawn up stairs and around corners to find more treasures before finally realizing the late hour? Racing back through town, the lone straggler in a bright yellow and green kerchief dodges through the crowds, only to see the bus, their bus, driving away in the distance.

What to do?

This article is for the more adventurous who, realizing they have come upon a treasure, promptly decide to take a room for a week (or better, a month). For those willing to stay, Assisi has gems waiting to be experienced. The following are just a few of them. But if one wants to know Assisi, spiritually, artistically, historically, its people and nature and treasures, they may well begin with these Ten Things To Do In Assisi.

1. The Basilica of Saint Francis – Yes, most visitors take in Giotto’s marvelous frescoes in the upper church of the Basilica. But there is much more. In the lower church, walk through the nave to the main altar, turn right and take a few steps into the transept. On the wall to your right, search for the likeness of Saint Francis painted by Cimabue. As this artist knew people who knew Francis, it is perhaps one of the best likenesses of him, and a very intriguing image.

Continuing over to the far corner of the transept, descend the curved stairs into a modest room containing several historic items, including a tunic worn by Francis and items and documents from his time.

Returning to the lower church, go half way back through the nave, then take the stairs down to the crypt, where the saint’s remains are venerated, along with those of some of his closest companions. Best to visit early morning, or a time when crowds are not filing through, as this is a special place for prayer and contemplation.

2. The Basilica of Saint Clare – In a chapel to the right as you enter the Basilica is the original San Damiano Cross, below which Francis was praying eight centuries ago when he heard a voice guiding him to “rebuild My Church”. Best to visit this chapel early morning, as well, when you may find yourself listening to hymns being sung by the cloistered Poor Clare nuns, or you may find yourself alone with the miraculous cross. As with much of Assisi, here the historic, artistic, natural and spiritual are inseparable, and inspirational.

3. Back Streets and Alleys – Pick up a free map at the information office on the west end of the Piazza del Comune. No matter which direction you head, there are streets to explore. Don’t worry about getting lost, that’s part of the adventure. If you head below the Piazza, you’ll walk the alleys where Francis lived and his father operated his cloth business. If you go above, anticipate wonderful views of Mount Subasio and the Umbrian countryside. As you go, you’ll be walking through history, past structures standing during Francis’ time, some since Roman times. There’s an excellent book, Guide to Assisi History and Art, that can be picked up at the bookstore on the Piazza del Comune. The main thing is to wander and explore, and perhaps meet some who call Assisi home.

4. San Damiano – From the Basilica of Saint Clare, walk east through one gate, along a straight road that takes you past Franco’s Market, and through a second gate, Porta Nuova, to the outskirts of the city. After passing through Porta Nuova, bear to the right and look for a sign for San Damiano. Start down and, after traversing an intersection, continue along the downhill path through olive groves to the Church of San Damiano. Time your morning or afternoon visit for when the church is open. It’s about a twenty minute walk.

The church, which Francis helped to rebuild, is a simple, special place. A copy of the San Damiano Cross is above the altar where the original once hung. Facing the altar, you will see a door to the right where you can pass through to view the convent where Clare lived much of her life, including her oratory, chapel and communal room. While the rooms are stark, they maintain much of their character after eight hundred years, leaving one feeling close to those whose humble lives have impacted so many over the centuries.

5. San Rufino – Following a steep walkway up from the Piazza Comunale one comes to the Cathedral of San Rufino, named after the Third Century martyr who is Assisi’s patron saint. In the back of this church is the font where Francis, Clare and Frederick II were baptized. Take time to walk through San Rufino, as it is rich with art and history.

6. The Eremo delle Carceri – This hermitage, tucked away on the side of Mount Subasio, is a tranquil, natural treasure, perhaps one of the more peaceful places on earth. This is where Francis and his companions went to meditate and pray.

Early in the morning walk up, up, up to the gate known as Porta Cappuccini. After passing through the gate, on the left is a dirt road that leads to a rocky trail that is one of the ways up to the Eremo. An easier (though not easy) way is to walk up the main road. It’s only a few kilometers. If necessary, one can pay for a taxi ride. However, there is something about trekking up the steep road that makes for a sort of pilgrimage, experiencing both the effort and the views that Francis (who never rode a taxi) would have experienced. An early morning start assures less heat while walking, fewer crowds and more tranquility upon arrival.

Join in the silence as you explore the Eremo. The buildings, constructed over the centuries, are literally built into the sides of the cliffs. Walk through the small rooms where Francis stayed, then head out into the woods, where a maze of trails still, after many centuries, offer places to appreciate nature’s beauty in quiet contemplation.

7. San Stefano – Near the middle of Assisi is a small, simple church, built by the working class in the year 1166. As this Church maintains its original design, at a Sunday morning mass, shared with perhaps thirty locals, it is not difficult to imagine Francis standing nearby. Today, it seems the humble and poor saint would be more at ease in this church than in the grand and decorated basilicas.

Going up the walkway outside the church, one gains a view of the bells of San Stefano which, legend tells us, rang simultaneously with Francis’ death some kilometers away. Rest for a moment on the wall here and enjoy the views of the valley.

8. Piazza del Comune – Back in the center of town one is drawn to the Church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, which wasn’t always a church. In Roman times it was the Temple of Minerva, and later it served various purposes ranging from a town hall to a jail. The outer columns are architecturally magnificent, the inner structure intriguing with its long, complex history. On a building near the church, look for the official "standard measures" of Assisi from centuries past.

The piazza is a good place for strolling, people watching and enjoying overpriced gelato. Visit the nearby Chiesa Nuova, built over Francis’ childhood home, and enjoy a fine (and affordable) local meal at the adjacent Pizzeria Otello.

9. Mount Subasio – If the Eremo walk was not too much of a challenge, a more vigorous stroll awaits. Mount Subasio is covered with beautiful, interesting hiking trails. However, one may head for the summit by walking up the same road that led to the Eremo, then continuing on a paved road that turns to gravel before crossing near the top.

After the Eremo switchback, remain on the road staying to the left where another road passing above the Eremo goes right. Eventually you’ll come to the Colle San Rufino, a very interesting place to explore ruins on another day. From the Colle, moving above the tree line opens up incredible views.

A vigorous walking pace will bring one close to the summit in under three hours (from Assisi). The summit is well marked (if you know where to look). When you see a transmission tower in the distance off to the left of the road, continue on until you notice trail cairns to your left. Pass through one of the fence openings, then follow the cairns until you reach the summit marker. Around the marker are four stands indicating the distant towns and mountains viewable on a clear day.

From high up on Subasio one gains a fine perspective of the rugged Umbrian countryside. This, too, is a great place for walking and looking down on Assisi and its neighboring towns.

10. Santa Margherita – Last on this list is a small Thirteenth Century church that captures how little the spirit of Assisi has changed over time. The weekday evening mass is often attended by four local ladies who seem mainstays of the congregation, praying communally prior to and then assisting in the mass. On any given evening they may be joined by a few others.

There is a small piazza in front of the church, overlooking the magnificent Basilica of Saint Francis, with its millions of visitors from all over the globe. The piazza views extend beyond to the valley and mountains, some of the most beautiful sights to be seen from Assisi.

In considering the distance between earth (terra) and heaven (cielo), Santa Margherita and Assisi are somewhere in between.

Not long after Easter in Assisi is Calendimaggio, a traditional celebration of spring. Many Assisians dress in period costumes and participate in the festivities, which include singing, parades and competitions. Not to worry if clouds appear, the main street is covered.

Pre-Calendimaggio actvities include bows and beauty. First, the bows, or rather crossbows, precise instruments, with fine crafted wood and even steel cables.

The Parte de Sopra (upper town) squares off against the Parte de Sotto (lower town) in a competition of accuracy. But first, a parade!

The archers make their way into the large piazza in front of the Basilica of Saint Clare.

A closer look as they come around to where the competition will begin. The targets can be seen about forty or fifty yards away.

The accompanying marchers step back.

The Parte de Sopra lines up to await their turns. (note - by fate or fortune we live in a Parte de Sopra neighborhood. We cheer for the others at the risk of losing our lease :-)