Assisi 2020 - VIII

This is the eighth in a series of posts sharing information and perspectives on the lives of Saints Francis and Clare, life in Assisi and seeking to follow Franciscan values in today's world.

Gospel Quote - Matthew 17:20.  "Amen, I say to you, if you have faith as tiny as a mustard seed, you will be able to say to this mountain: 'Move from here to there,' and it will move. Nothing will be impossible for you."  It's easy to overlook the power of faith, hope and love during challenging times. Alone one may feel helpless, but one need not be alone.

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Umbrian Adventure - High on the side of Mount Subasio, above the Eremo delle Carceri, rests a hill named Calle San Rufino. Hidden from view of those passing by is a makeshift shrine. The following notes are from visits there over the past several years.
The trek back down from the summit included crossing over the top of Colle San Rufino and revisiting an interesting, unmarked location carved into the rocky hillside, that some person or persons years ago transformed into a rough shrine. Here are a few pictures, the first looking down from above.

Next from the side.

Here are some closer pictures, starting with a partial manger scene.

Another manger scene, sheltered by plastic.

 Two venerated saints.

A quote (trans: Two things in the world will never abandon you: the eye of God that always sees you, the heart of the Mother that always follows you) and a cross.

Saint Catherine of Siena.

The Basilica of Saint Francis in Assisi.

Here's a closer look at a couple of tiles, the right one including the Canticle of the Creatures in Italian.

Finally, one of many nice messages.

"Who gives, gives to God."
With inspiring views of Subasio above and the valley below, Colle San Rufino is a special place to visit.

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Reflections - The Gospel quote above brought to mind a story told in Venice. I've written in the past about a lovely girl named Contessa Tagliapietra, who was born in 1288 and died after a long illness in 1308. Her family lived in Campo San Vio, along the Grand Canal. Contessa, whose royal-sounding name was attributed to her family's role in a war with Genoa, was very devout as a child. She would often cross the Grand Canal in a gondola to pray in the Church of San Maurizio, located on the opposite side. As she grew older, her father became concerned that his daughter might be too devout, which could impact the marriage he hoped for her. Unable to dissuade her from her frequent trips to the Church of San Maurizio, he finally instructed all of the nearby gondoliers to refuse to transport her.

The next time that she set out to cross the Grand Canal to pray, every gondolier she approached denied her request for a ride. Finally, she went to the edge of the canal, took a linen cloth and, stretching it out on the water, stepped onto it and floated across.

For centuries Contessa's story has been the subject of studies and debates on miracles and myths, cults and devotions. For a long time Venetian mothers would set their infants over the entombed remains of Contessa, praying for their safety in avoiding drowning in the canals. 

Apparently no proof was ever been found of a miracle having occurred.

On the other hand, if Contessa had faith as tiny as a mustard seed....

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Something Franciscan - Within Assisi's walls there are treasures most visitors never see.  First, one would need to know they existed; then, one would need to know if, when and how they might be accessed. One of them is the beautiful small 14th Century Church, or Oratory, of San Vitale, atop a flight of stairs accessed by passing through an often closed wooden door.

Another is the 13th Century Church of Sant'Andrea, under the care of an order of Franciscan nuns. Then, close by the Piazza del Comune, there is the 11th Century Church of San Paolo, maintained by one of Assisi's confraternities, with its art treasures.
Also from the 11th Century is the Church of San Giacomo di Murorupto (Saint James of the Broken Wall - a reference to an old broken wall in the area.) This, too, is under the care of Franciscan nuns, and requires permission to visit.

Francis may well have prayed in the latter two Churches.

Pax et bonum.

Assisi 2020 - VII

This is the seventh in a series of posts sharing information and perspectives on the lives of Saints Francis and Clare, life in Assisi and seeking to follow Franciscan values in today's world.

Gospel Quote - Mark 2: 16-17.  Some scribes who were Pharisees noticed that Jesus was eating with sinners and tax collectors, and they asked his disciples, "Why does he eat with tax collectors and sinners?" When Jesus overheard this remark, he said, "It is not the healthy who need a physician, but rather those who are sick. I have come to call not the righteous but sinners."

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Umbrian Adventure - Saints Francis and Clare were born at a time when the Benedictines were very active in Umbria, having been around for centuries. Norcia in Umbria, birthplace of Saints Benedict and Scholastica, was devastated by an earthquake in 2016. The following is an update on a 2017 visit there.
Traveling from Assisi to Norcia involved walking down to the Santa Maria degli Angeli train station to take a half hour train ride to Spoleto, and from there riding a bus for about an hour up a narrow, winding and scenic road. Norcia sits on a high plain by Sibillini Mountains National Park, a rugged and beautiful part of central Italy.
For many years, travelers to Norcia could look forward to visiting a well preserved Umbrian walled city with much history, perhaps most notably being the home of twin-sibling Saints Benedict and Scholastica, born in the year 480. However, in the summer and autumn of 2016, Norcia was struck by devastating earthquakes, resulting in extensive damage to the town. One need not even pass through one of Norcia's gates to begin to witness the impact of the quakes.

Prior to setting out, I had studied a map to determine, from the bus stop, which gate to enter and how to weave through Norcia's streets to the center of town where the remains of the Basilica of Saint Benedict are located. However, just inside the walls it became clear that the maze of old streets had become a complex entanglement of blockades.
Many streets, including all inside of this gate, were blocked on this day. Typically, signs would indicate a "Zona Rossa" or "Red Zone" with entry prohibited.

Even streets that appeared safe could have buildings in danger of falling. I walked back out onto the perimeter road and hiked up to and through a second gate. There too many streets were blocked. Seeking to find a way to the center of town, I stopped and asked a lady for directions. She pointed the way I was heading, but said one must be very careful because of falling debris. I thanked her and walked a bit further, to where two men were working. As there was a barrier across the road to prevent vehicle traffic, I asked them if I could pass through. Their response was an unequivocal "No."
Having reached a dead end, I started back up to the second gate, only to have the lady with whom I had spoken pull up in a car. After a moment's discussion she indicated that I should hop in and she would take me to where I could reach the main square.
We rode further around the perimeter road, past more scenes of loss, and finally came to a guarded but open gate and a main road leading directly to the main square. I thanked my guide for her help and kindness, got out and started along the street, one of the few places in town that seemed recovered enough for normal activity.

Ahead was a statue of Saint Benedict, but also a disheartening scene. While the facade of the Basilica of Saint Benedict remains standing, the church itself was mostly leveled.

The extensive staging may help in preserving the facade, but it is clear that rebuilding the Basilica will take years. Next to the remains of the Basilica is the Palazzo Comunale and bell tower, which also appears in a precipitous state.

As if losing a treasure like the Basilica of Saint Benedict wasn't enough, other churches in town also sustained major damage. Earlier, when going around the perimeter road, my helpful driver had pointed out the Church of San Giovanni, which turned out to be accessible via a few open streets.
Here, too, was a discouraging scene. There was a large hole in a side wall of the Church.

Despite so much devastation, the people of Norcia may pray thankfully, being spared loss of life as occurred in other nearby communities. On the higher end of town, reconstruction and preservation efforts were underway on the Church of Saint Anthony. Heavy beams were being lifted into place.
The oldest structures in town seemed the hardest hit, likely due to less sturdy construction practices in centuries past. In a town where many residences also are centuries old, parts of homes were destroyed as well. One building that appeared to survive intact was the town theater.

Also of interest, while I'm not sure how the earthquakes impacted banks within Norcia's walls, now modular banking facilities have been set up in a parking lot outside of those walls.
I mentioned Norcia being by Sibillini Mountains National Park. There are beautiful views in all directions, and undoubtedly good hiking nearby.

Finally, who were Saints Scholastica and Benedict of Nursia? (Nursia was the Latin name of Norcia) Twins born in the Fifth Century, Benedict is perhaps best known for the Rule of Saint Benedict, guidelines for the monks who followed him and for many future religious orders, while Scholastica established the first Benedictine community for women. Benedict is considered the father of Western monasticism. Some seven centuries after the time of Benedict, his followers would be instrumental in turning over old churches to be repaired by a young man from Assisi named Francis.
As Benedict's legendary status seems to overshadow his sister's holy life, I was pleased to notice the name of the small square where I waited to start my return trip home.

Before leaving Norcia, I was speaking with a local and observed how, despite all of the destruction, it was still a beautiful town. He agreed, but wondered how much it mattered with all that had been lost and how community life had been impacted. Nevertheless, with each day Norcia edges a step forward on the long journey of recovery, and one could sense the faith and hope of its residents, still blessed from above.

Four years have passed since the earthquake, and efforts to reconstruct the town of Norcia continue. A webcam view of the Basilica of Saint Benedict and the bell tower indicate substantial work remains.

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Reflections - Often in Assisi I run into a penitent friend named Massimo. Many a visitor may recall him as the fellow dressed in sackcloth who sometimes preaches on the Piazza del Comune. He is a kind and thoughtful person.
One time I noticed he appeared worn down, so I inquired about his health. He responded with, "What matters is the health of the soul." A good reminder, even during this time of pandemic, when concerns about physical well-being are so strong.
Another time I saw him during Assisi's annual Calendimaggio event, a time of much revelry, drinking and celebration. As he seemed concerned about what was going on around us, I mentioned that Francis, in his youth, was among the foremost of Assisi's revelers. Massimo responded, "That's the problem. People know how to imitate the young Francis, but they haven't learned to imitate the older Francis." Another good point.

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Something Franciscan - Many Assisi pilgrims visit San Damiano and the adjacent monastery, where Clare and her followers lived, prayed and worked. However, other than stepping into a small shrine at the location of her childhood home by the Cathedral of San Rufino, few ever see other places in the future saint's life. One was high up on a densely wooded part of Mount Subasio, a place called Sasso Rosso (red rock), where Clare's family had a castle and where she spent parts of her childhood. Getting there requires a bit of a trek over a narrow trail, and little is left of the castle, although sections of stone remain.

Clare would have enjoyed some beautiful views from this home.

A second special place is the Church of San Paolo delle Abbadesse, in nearby Bastia Umbra, where Clare sought refuge with Benedictine nuns the night she slipped away from her parent's home in Assisi to become a follower of Francis.

Clare's Uncle Monaldo showed up at San Paolo to try to drag her home, and the scene became a bit much for the nuns. Under the protection of Francis and his early followers, Clare soon had to flee again, this time to a monastery about two kilometers from Assisi called Sant'Angelo in Panzo.

Clare was joined there by one of her sisters, who had taken the name Agnes. Uncle Monaldo showed up again, with help, determined to literally carry Agnes home. His henchmen set her down for a moment on the way out, only to find that, miraculously, they could no longer lift her off the ground. Monaldo and his men abandoned their efforts in frustration. The two sisters went on to become two of Assisi's Saints, Chiara and Agnese.

Pax et bonum.

Assisi 2020 - VI

This is the sixth in a series of posts sharing information and perspectives on the lives of Saints Francis and Clare, life in Assisi and seeking to follow Franciscan values in today's world.

Gospel Quote - Matthew 7: 1-2. "Do not judge, so that you in turn may not be judged. For you will be judged in the same way that you judge others, and the measure that you use for others will be used to measure you."

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Umbrian Adventures - Many people are familiar with the story of how Francis returned his earthly possessions to his earthly father, intent on following his Father in Heaven. Following this encounter, Francis set out for the town of Gubbio, about 31 miles north of Assisi. Trails now trace the paths he likely followed. The following updated post is from 2017.

Three years ago (2014), I wrote about a hike along the trails connecting the Umbrian towns of Gubbio and Assisi. These trails are special because they follow the footsteps of Saint Francis, who traversed the forests, hills and valleys separating the two ancient towns many times. Much of the way is still rural and pristine enough that one can imagine sharing the paths and dirt roads with the young Francis, sharing in the natural beauty of Umbria.
On my first hike, a missed trail turn led to a challenging stretch of walking through mud flats of the Chiascio River. While that oozing experience turned out well (apparently Francis, too, made his way through the Chiascio's mud), it was a bit disappointing to miss a section of forest paths before linking back up with the main trails. So, when an opportunity recently arose to again hike from Gubbio to Assisi, there was no turning it down.
I set out at 5:30 a.m. from the Church of the Vittorina, built where Francis tamed the wolf of Gubbio. For those not familiar with this legend, a large wolf had been terrorizing Gubbio for some time, even killing its citizens. Francis, who loved animals, went outside the city walls to talk with the wolf, in the name of God, and tamed him, laying out an understanding that the people of Gubbio would give the wolf food in exchange for being left in peace. A postscript to this Thirteenth Century legend is that, in 1872, some laborers, doing renovation work in the area where the tamed animal supposedly was buried, dug up the centuries-old remains of a large wolf.
It was still dark when I began walking from the Church of the Vittorino.

The first stretch of trail, basically a flat combination of dirt and paved roads through the pleasant town of Ponte d'Assi, led to a few turns and crossings before the road began to climb, moving through farmland.

A bit of morning fog actually made for nice walking conditions. The path became steeper approaching the high forest ridge, but once over the top the dirt road became even more scenic and tranquil.

A plus of hiking in the Spring is Umbria's wildflowers.

This would be a long post indeed if it included all of the old churches, ancient ruins and historic landmarks between Gubbio and Assisi. I had already walked past a number of such sites. However, one special gem worth visiting, located in the forest far from anything else, is the tiny church of the Madonna delle Ripe.

This is a place where pilgrims may pray. It also appears to be a place where people leave their small written petitions or mementos or keepsakes, as if seeking to keep alive special prayers or memories by leaving something tangible there.

Everything from rosaries to ribbons to crosses to flowers adorn the entry gate. Inside is an altar and a well-preserved segment of a fresco.

After a brief but inspiring stop, I continued along a dirt road at a brisk pace, eventually going past the hermitage of San Pietro in Vigneto, a large stone structure set back from a closed gate, built by Benedictines and dating back to at least the Fourteenth Century. Here the trail descended into dense woods. A small wild boar scampered by. This was where, three years earlier, I had missed a trail marker and ended up down by the Chiascio River. Things went better this time, although the path soon turned steep and narrow as it ascended after a stream crossing. At around 9:40 a.m. I came upon the Church of Caprignone.
This important landmark in Franciscan history was where in 1223, when Francis was still alive, his followers held their first chapter meeting away from Assisi.

This church is actually built over the remains of an earlier church, and nearby are the remains of an even earlier pagan temple. The old wooden door was locked closed, but a large crack near the bottom of the door provided just enough of an opening to take a picture of the interior.

Would sure like a chance to go inside and take a closer look at the fresco work on the right. After a short break, it was more uphill climbing in the direction of the Castle of Biscina. I've mentioned "trails" in the plural, as their are a few different pathways one may follow, with different markings. Here was a place where four ran together and their markings managed to appear on a single rock outcrop.

The Castle of Biscina was a strategically located outpost between Gubbio and Perugia, of critical importance during a Thirteenth Century conflict between those states. On a north-south hike, it is easily viewed from a distance in either direction.

It is an impressive landmark when viewed from afar, less so from up close where, like several other structures along the trail, it is slowly giving way to the elements. Damages from a 1984 earthquake did not help matters. Beyond Biscina, the trail continued to curve around deep ravines, occasionally dropping down before climbing back up. In some steep places steps were constructed to make the trail passable in rainy weather.

This was a particularly beautiful section of the trail, with no shortage of wildflowers.

After a long stretch of forested trail, I crossed onto a section of paved road that led up to the small Church of Sambuco. The date being April 25, Liberation Day in Italy, a large number of extended family members with ties to the hamlet of Sambuco were gathered in and around the church, as they are every year on this date. It was nice to see such a spirited gathering, even as a sermon from within the Church was being broadcast over a loudspeaker. However, with it being midday and with many miles to go, I continued on back into the forest. After a rugged uphill stretch of trail, the views opened back up.

Where the land extends out from the top left of the above picture is the Castle of Biscina, in the middle is the Chiascio River, and to the right is the Eleventh Century Church of Coccorano.
The Church of Coccorano currently is undergoing a long-term renovation, although noticeable progress has been made over the past three years. An adjoining castle did not fare so well, as little remains of it. From here it was back into the forest, then down to a country road with more wildflowers.
Approaching Valfabbrica, the one large town between Gubbio and Assisi, I passed the Church of San Benedetto e Paolino, which was around before the time of Francis, and was likely a stopping point on his travels.

Before reaching the edge of town, a country residence caught my eye, with an excellent entry gate and a nice old car on the driveway.

The Latin "Pax et bonum", or Italian "Pace e bene" or "Peace and goodness" were the words Francis used to greet people. On the gate they are complemented with a dove with an olive branch. The car appears to be a late 1960's or 1970's Citroen, a classy classic automobile. Although, not quite as fine a mode of transportation as walking. In Valfabbrica, at around 2:30 p.m., the sun was warming and it was a bit disappointing to find a fountain not working, as my water bottles were running low.

I passed through this mostly quiet town quickly. "Mostly quiet" because there is a fruit and vegetable vendor who drives about town in a truck, announcing his arrival in various neighborhoods over a loudspeaker. Sort of like an ice cream truck, only healthier.
The next stretch of walking proved a bit challenging. I was now counting on filling a water bottle at a fountain at the foot of a steep trail ascending to a ridge from where Assisi would be visible in the distance. Unfortunately, this fountain also was dry and, being well beyond Valfabbrica, turning back to look for a market was not a good option. So, the next hour was a slow, steep and thirsty trek, leading to the top where, thankfully, a third fountain gave forth a nice flow of cold water.
Assisi was in sight. The last few miles of walking offered some fine views.
The trail was now a well maintained dirt road and would be mostly downhill until the last mile. Assisi's Rocca Maggiore could be seen on a distant hilltop.

By the small old Church of Santa Croce at the foot of the road leading up to Assisi, Irises were growing next to a stone wall.

Here's a view back of the countryside after crossing over the ridge that separates Valfabbrica and Assisi.

And, finally, close to 6:00 p.m., it was time to enter Assisi through one of its gates, Porta San Giacomo.

For those considering this walk, Gubbio to Assisi is typically a two day trek, with hikers often spending the night in Valfabbrica. That's a good option for those seeking to maintain an easy pace with some extra time to explore. Single day hikers are well advised to choose a day with long hours of daylight, when rain has not fallen for a couple of days and is not in the forecast, nor are extremes of heat, cold or wind. In short, pick a day with great weather and start out at the first sign of light. Carry plenty of water and food. You may want to visit   http://www.caigubbio.it/francescano/GPS/francescano_gps.html    and print out the maps of the various trail sections. They can be very useful in uncertain situations. Also, before starting out, read up on Saint Francis and the events of his life transpiring between Assisi and Gubbio. The walk is best made following in his steps both on foot and in spirit. 

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Reflections - I recently finished rereading I Promessi Sposi (The Betrothed) by Alessandro Manzoni, one of the most popular novels in Italian literature, along with Dante's Divine Comedy. It contains a lengthy and detailed description of the plague which brought extensive suffering and death to Milan around the year 1630. In some ways the uncertainties, fears, rumors and examples of both selfishness and selflessness are not all that different than what we have been experiencing with the coronavirus. Manzoni reveals much about faith, love and human nature. Some of the closing words of I Promessi Sposi are worthy of reflection... "misfortunes most commonly happen to us from our own misconduct or imprudence; but sometimes from causes independent of ourselves; that the most innocent and prudent conduct cannot always preserve us from them; and that, whether they arise from our own fault or not, trust in God softens them, and renders them useful in preparing us for a better life." 

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Something Franciscan - The original San Damiano Cross may now be found in a chapel of the Basilica of Saint Clare in Assisi. On weekdays, there is a 7:15 a.m. Mass, occasionally attended by groups of pilgrims, but regularly celebrated by Franciscans in the presence of cloistered Poor Clare nuns and a handful of devout locals. 

All Masses are sacred; to celebrate and reflect in the presence of this Cross can be inspiring.

Pax et bonum.