Eremo delle Carceri Masses

The Eremo delle Carceri (Hermitage of the Prisons) is a beautiful forested area on the side of Mount Subasio where Francis and his early followers went to pray in silence. Like hermits in earlier centuries, they would retire into tiny caves, or "prisons", to spend quiet time in contemplation. Following the time of Francis, the hermitage building was expanded, while the surrounding forest remains a place of peaceful trails, small caves and natural beauty.

The Eremo is a popular destination for Assisi visitors. Often, by midday, the area outside the entrance gate is crowded with parked cars, taxis and small buses, while many more are hiking the two-plus mile steadily uphill road from Assisi. At such times, while inside is still a peaceful place, the Eremo paths tend not to be quite as tranquil.

For those seeking something closer to what Francis experienced, there's an early morning alternative for visiting the Eremo delle Carceri. If you set out from Assisi's Porta Cappuccini around 6:00 a.m. and start walking up the road at a moderate pace, it takes only about an hour to reach the Eremo entrance gate. Carry water. On the upper part of the road, there are three switchbacks, the first of which is just over halfway there. (Those unable to make the vigorous uphill climb may want to arrange for an early morning - about 6:50 a.m. - taxi ride from town.)

When you arrive, the gate should be open, with few if any people about. Walk through and continue along the path to the hermitage building. If it is before 7:10 a.m., you may have arrived in time for morning prayers with the friars and nuns who live at the hermitage. If it's a bit later, morning Mass begins at 7:30 a.m.

Proceed down the walkway and through the door.

From this point on, no cameras, no pets, no phones, no food and drink, and no noise. In a word, silence. Just to your right, as you enter onto a small piazza, there is an entry to a hallway. At the end of the hallway is a small church, built into the side of Mount Subasio, with rock actually projecting into the nave area. Here, the six or seven Franciscan occupants of the Eremo, plus any early morning visitors, celebrate Mass in an intimate and inspiring setting. Don't hesitate to enter as Mass is about to begin, as those inside are very welcoming.

After Mass, you may continue through hermitage rooms and stairways, past settings from centuries past, coming out onto the forest trails. Now, on most days at this hour, you may find a path to walk and pray in silence, with few if any other persons about.

In prior posts I've quoted French philosopher Simone Weil, writing about her visit to Assisi in the 1930's, descriptive words worth repeating,“When I got to Assisi, Milan, Florence, Rome and all the rest completely disappeared from my memory, so captivated was I by the gentle landscape, so miraculously evangelical and Franciscan, by the delightful churches, by a wealth of happy memories and by those noble examples of humanity- the Umbrian country folk, rich in beauty, physical strength, joy and kindness. 

Little had I dreamt such a marvelous place existed. I would have stayed for the rest of my life – if only women were accepted - at the tiny monastery of the Carceri, an hour and fourteen minutes walk up the mountainside from Assisi. No more heavenly and tranquil sight exists than Umbria as seen from up there. Saint Francis certainly knew how to choose the most ravishing spots to practice poverty: He was far from being an ascetic….”

Finally, if by mid-morning you are not quite ready to return to town, more trails and natural wonders await on Mount Subasio.

Ciao for now.

Roads Around Mount Subasio

Winding roads stretch around the outer perimeter of Mount Subasio, starting clockwise from Assisi's Porta Perlici gate and returning through either Porta Cappuccino or Porta Nuova. The roads are usually hilly, mostly paved and seldom carry much traffic, unless one finishes via Porta Nuova. It's about a 21 mile trek, extended by a couple of miles if one wanders through the towns of Armenzano, San Giovanni di Spello, Collepino and Spello. Having done several posts in the past on walking around Subasio, this one is less a hike description than a collection of images and observations from a day ago. Starting out early meant arriving in the hamlet of Costa di Trex before sunrise.

"Costa di Trex", ending with a non-Italian consonant, hardly seems an Italian name. However, if one considers this once was the site of three (tre) churches (x), the name ends with an Italian number followed by a sign for a cross. 

I passed by the ancient town of Armenzano before the day's 7:15 Masses had begun back in Assisi. Although the sky occasionally appeared threatening, it was a fine, cool morning for walking, with good distant views.

A favorite destination along the road, the small town of San Giovanni di Spello, appeared in the distance.

As usually, it was a peaceful morning entering town, where one finds a church and a few narrow walkways.

I seldom see many people about in San Giovanni, but it is a wonderfully well kept town, with its own primary school and tranquil views in every direction. It would seem a good place for a writer, a painter or a contemplative person to call home. Here's a small piazza near the center of town.

Back on the entry path, a compass set in the pavement points to the surrounding towns of Nocera Umbra, Valtopina, Spello and Assisi, or the outside world, as viewed from the perspective of this peaceful place.

One delightful thing about San Giovanni is its bicycle cave, located a short way down the road toward Spello. What, one may ask, is a bicycle cave? Well, by definition, it would be a cave with bicycles.

What likely sets this apart from other bicycle caves (should they exist) is the inclusion of an oxcart, perhaps left over from a time when this was simply an oxcart cave.

The next town along the road was Collepino, and before long the larger town of Spello came into sight.

Here the winding road descends for a couple of miles, offering ever improving views of Spello.

About a mile before town, one can leave the road and walk along a trail next to a Roman aqueduct. The aqueduct is well preserved, and the trail lined with olive trees and poppies.

Some years ago, someone "added" some interesting engraved quotes to the aqueduct wall, witty sayings by famous people. While one may question the wisdom of "modifying" Roman ruins, the quotes add a bit of fun to the naturally beautiful path. Here are a couple of quotes attributed to Einstein.

"The mind is like a parachute... It only works if we keep it open."

"Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe."

While not chuckling over Einstein, the trail was about as pleasant to walk as one could imagine.

Just before Spello, there's a fountain where fresh drinking water from Mount Subasio continuously flows from a spigot, a good place for filling water bottles. On this day, after I had filled mine, a fellow came along and washed his hands under the spigot, then proceeded to lift his feet under the flowing water to wash off his shoes. We had a brief, pleasant conversation and he was on his way. Potability is one of those transient things in life; best to collect water at its source, or at least directly from the spigot. Here's a still closer view of Spello.

Once in Spello, I headed through the streets in the direction of the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, hoping to revisit some beautiful frescoes by Pinturiccio. Unfortunately, the Church was closed for renovation work. So, nothing to share but a closed front entrance.

Here's a Spello street, passing under an arch from Roman times.

The final six miles back to Assisi take one along the Way of the Olive Trees, a pleasant walkway after traveling many miles. Among the interesting things one encounters is a stone wall decorated with words from Francis of Assisi's Canticle of the Creatures.

Walking around Mount Subasio lends to an appreciation of Francis' words.

Ciao for now.