Wednesday, May 1, 2019

Roads Around Mount Subasio

Winding roads stretch around the outer perimeter of Mount Subasio, starting clockwise from Assisi's Porta Perlici gate and returning through either Porta Cappuccino or Porta Nuova. The roads are usually hilly, mostly paved and seldom carry much traffic, unless one finishes via Porta Nuova. It's about a 21 mile trek, extended by a couple of miles if one wanders through the towns of Armenzano, San Giovanni di Spello, Collepino and Spello. Having done several posts in the past on walking around Subasio, this one is less a hike description than a collection of images and observations from a day ago. Starting out early meant arriving in the hamlet of Costa di Trex before sunrise.
"Costa di Trex", ending with a non-Italian consonant, hardly seems an Italian name. However, if one considers this once was the site of three (tre) churches (x), the name ends with an Italian number followed by a sign for a cross. 
I passed by the ancient town of Armenzano before the day's 7:15 Masses had begun back in Assisi. Although the sky occasionally appeared threatening, it was a fine, cool morning for walking, with good distant views.
A favorite destination along the road, the small town of San Giovanni di Spello, appeared in the distance.
As usually, it was a peaceful morning entering town, where one finds a church and a few narrow walkways.
I seldom see many people about in San Giovanni, but it is a wonderfully well kept town, with its own primary school and tranquil views in every direction. It would seem a good place for a writer, a painter or a contemplative person to call home. Here's a small piazza near the center of town.
Back on the entry path, a compass set in the pavement points to the surrounding towns of Nocera Umbra, Valtopina, Spello and Assisi, or the outside world, as viewed from the perspective of this peaceful place.
One delightful thing about San Giovanni is its bicycle cave, located a short way down the road toward Spello. What, one may ask, is a bicycle cave? Well, by definition, it would be a cave with bicycles.
What likely sets this apart from other bicycle caves (should they exist) is the inclusion of an oxcart, perhaps left over from a time when this was simply an oxcart cave.
The next town along the road was Collepino, and before long the larger town of Spello came into sight.
Here the winding road descends for a couple of miles, offering ever improving views of Spello.
About a mile before town, one can leave the road and walk along a trail next to a Roman aqueduct. The aqueduct is well preserved, and the trail lined with olive trees and poppies.
Some years ago, someone "added" some interesting engraved quotes to the aqueduct wall, witty sayings by famous people. While one may question the wisdom of "modifying" Roman ruins, the quotes add a bit of fun to the naturally beautiful path. Here are a couple of quotes attributed to Einstein.
"The mind is like a parachute... It only works if we keep it open."
"Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe."
While not chuckling over Einstein, the trail was about as pleasant to walk as one could imagine.
Just before Spello, there's a fountain where fresh drinking water from Mount Subasio continuously flows from a spigot, a good place for filling water bottles. On this day, after I had filled mine, a fellow came along and washed his hands under the spigot, then proceeded to lift his feet under the flowing water to wash off his shoes. We had a brief, pleasant conversation and he was on his way. Potability is one of those transient things in life; best to collect water at its source, or at least directly from the spigot. Here's a still closer view of Spello.
Once in Spello, I headed through the streets in the direction of the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, hoping to revisit some beautiful frescoes by Pinturiccio. Unfortunately, the Church was closed for renovation work. So, nothing to share but a closed front entrance.
Here's a Spello street, passing under an arch from Roman times.
The final six miles back to Assisi take one along the Way of the Olive Trees, a pleasant walkway after traveling many miles. Among the interesting things one encounters is a stone wall decorated with words from Francis of Assisi's Canticle of the Creatures.
Walking around Mount Subasio lends to an appreciation of Francis' words.
Ciao for now.

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