A Walk in Mount Subasio Park - Part 3 of 3

Still following a country road and looking to pick up the trail again, the views of Mount Subasio became more frequent. One could be slightly lost, but not totally lost, as long as the mountain was in sight.

It was at this point that I came across one of those gems one sometimes encounters in rural Umbria. Next to the road was a small chapel dedicated to Saint Leonard of Noblac, also known as Saint Leonard of Limonges, with the location of this particular chapel resulting in it being named San Leonardo Montarelle.

Who was San Leonardo? He was a noble Fifth and Sixth Century Frenchman who converted to Christianity in the year 496. He gave up power and authority, except for a right to free worthy prisoners, which he gained a reputation for doing. He then became a hermit, lived in the forest and founded an abbey. In the Twelfth Century San Leonardo became very popular throughout Western Europe, with at least 177 churches dedicated to him. In Italy alone over 200 places bear his name, including this little chapel.

According to a nearby sign, "Popular tradition decrees that the oil used to light the lamp opposite the altar in the chapel could cure 'bone aches'", and San Leonardo "has been the patron of woodland, prisoners, miners and pregnant women." An interesting combination. An internet check confirmed his patronage also includes captives and horses. Although the chapel seen here is fairly new, there are nearby ruins and documentation of one at this location in the year 1354. Apparently at one point there was a frescoed church. In the front windows of the chapel are some votive candles with images of Padre Pio on them.

I don't want to leave the little chapel of San Leonardo Montarelle without sharing a story. You may assume it fiction, unless it is not. According to a writer at a site near Assisi (Brigolante Guest Apartments), legend has it there once was a farmer named Rufinetto who would pass the San Leonardo chapel each day on his way to town, and would ask San Leonardo for permission to remove one penny from the offerings there for his daily cigar. Interpreting silence as implied consent, Rufinetto would pick up a penny and continue on to town for his cigar. Word got out about the farmer's habit and eventually one of his neighbors decided to hide behind the chapel. When Rufinetto stopped in and politely asked San Leonardo for a penny for his daily cigar, a voice responded with a resounding, "No!" A worried Rufinetto hastened away, concerned at how ornery San Leonardo had become.
Now Assisi came into view, still far away but visible in the distant notch between the mountains.

In a nearby valley I spotted the Satriano chapel, and knew then the trail was close by. At the turnoff I noticed who lived in the farmhouse down the way because of a quaint little sign.

Spring was finally appearing on the fields.

Logs were stacked in a section of forest where the trail converged with a dirt road.

Although Assisi was still over two hours away, the weather was holding up and following a muddy stretch up from Ponte Marchetto, it would be fairly easy going.

Just before descending into the ravine, I was passing a farmhouse and the farmer was outdoors, enjoying the view behind his home. We talked some about my day's hike, and I stated the obvious in telling him how beautiful the surrounding countryside was. He laughed and said, "E tranquilla." Tranquil. Peaceful. And so it was, this walk in Monte Subasio Park.
Ciao.