Leaving for Venice tomorrow. One of the places I'll miss in Assisi is the small church of Santa Margherita. It sits above the Basilica of Saint Francis in a well-preserved medieval section of town. The little piazza out in front of the church offers some of the prettiest views in Umbria.
Santa Margherita, with its simple façade, is large enough to seat about 70 people.
On weekday evenings at 6:00 p.m. (5:00 p.m. in winter), a Franciscan priest arrives to celebrate mass. The Franciscans have been ministering to the congregation at Santa Margherita since the Thirteenth Century. Records indicate the church was already in existence in 1246, or not long after the very first Franciscan.
There are about five senior ladies (senior senore?) who attend the weeknight mass regularly. They unlock the door, prepare the altar and begin reciting the rosary before the priest arrives (and heaven help any guest priest who tries to start mass on time if the rosary hasn't been completed). They assist in the readings, including vespers, which are included in the mass.
Somewhere I read that the altar stone once rested over the tomb of Saint Francis. Sometimes the church fills up, but often on weeknights there might be 5 or 10 congregants. For all the beauty, art, history and splendor of the larger churches, I can't help but think Francesco would have loved visiting the Church of Santa Margherita.
Ciao.
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