Saturday, April 4, 2015

Hiking Above Spello

Mount Subasio rises gradually from Spello. Beyond the farms and orchards come dense forests, steep ravines and rugged terrain. A good place to explore.
I set out from Assisi early on a Friday morning, just as people were arriving at the San Rufino Cathedral for a service.
After walking a few miles of country and dirt roads along the side of Subasio, it was time to go deeper into the forest.
Being a cold and windy morning, it was good to have the sun going to work. Also good to come upon an ancient fountain landmark, Fonte Sermattei.
In the dense forest nearby, one can follow a narrow path to the abandoned town of Gabbiano Vecchio.
This town, inhabited until about a century ago, but only left to the elements in more recent times, has a small church, Sant'Antonio, with the year 1255 on the cupola. In the church are frescos that may date back to the 17th century.
Unfortunately, in the past few years the church has deteriorated significantly. The roof is falling in, the entrance door has disappeared and little is left of the interior. And the frescos are eroding.
Is this art worth saving? Certainly it was important to those who lived in this settlement in centuries past.
And to those devoted to Saint Anthony. On viewing, one certainly may find it inspiring, one measure of the value of art.
From Gabbiano Vecchio, it was off to find a good trail to Spello. While crossing into higher country, a cold wind picked up, defying the morning sun's efforts. At least the trail, once found, was well marked and easy to follow.
After crossing over a high point of the hills, Spello came into sight.
The trail wound downwards, offering good views in several directions. However, approaching Spello, rather than stopping for a visit, this was a day for hiking. Turning onto a dirt road passing above the town, it was time to look for a different path back to Gabbiano Vecchio. At first, it was as easy as taking whichever route led uphill. Even as matters grew ruttier, the views remained great.
Once in the forest though, with no trail markings, no signs and occasional forks in the road, some guessing came into play. Regardless of the uncertainty, it was a fine place to be walking.
At one point the dirt road turned to mud, but soon it began to descend in the direction of Subasio. Finally, the Church of Sant'Antonio could be seen in the distance.
From here, it was easy going, with time to appreciate the signs of Spring.
And to enjoy the walk back to Assisi.
Ciao.

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