Many Assisi visitors inquire about the Eremo delle Carceri, the hermitage on Mount Subasio where Francis and his early followers went seeking solitude and to pray. Eight centuries later it is still a place of prayer, surrounded by a wonderful, forested area where one can walk peaceful trails. However, visitors often ask just how much effort it takes to get up there.
One can take a taxi from town. Or one can hike a steep, rocky trail, slippery when wet, that actually comes out above the Eremo before going back down. However, for a first time visitor, in reasonably good shape, a walk up the road may be the best way to go. (There is no evidence of a young Francis ever having taken a taxi.)
If one starts out at Assisi's Porta Cappuccini gate (a bit of an uphill walk itself), and walks at a moderate pace, it takes takes about an hour to reach the Eremo. Best to start early morning, when it is still quiet and the road is empty, especially during times when hundreds of visitors may show up later in the day. And be sure to bring water. The views from the road are wonderful.
Well, at least they improve as the fog lifts.
The road is steadily uphill. A little past halfway, it enters into a sharp "s" curve. There are a total of three "s" curves, the last one being fairly close to the entrance gate. Here's what the Eremo delle Carceri and its surrounding forest look like from above.
People from around the world visit the Eremo. However, if you happen to be Catholic, for a special visit leave Assisi around 6:00 a.m. and take your time. When you arrive at the entry gate, continue along the dirt path and down the narrow walkway into the hermitage. Be silent. No pictures. On your right is the corridor entrance to a small church. Inside you may find the friars and nuns who live at the Eremo saying morning prayers and preparing for a 7:30 Mass. Notice the Subasio rock jutting into the side of the church. Enjoy participating in the service where you will be made to feel welcomed. After Mass, you can explore the Eremo forest or head further up Mount Subasio by road or trails.
In short, if you have a chance, the Eremo delle Carceri is an invigorating walk and a wonderful place to visit.
Ciao.
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