Saturday, March 16, 2013

Cenacolo di Fuligno and Santa Lucia dei Magnoli

Went exploring in the north part of Florence this morning, and visited the Cenacolo di Fuligno. It is but a few rooms of fine art in what was once a covent, but is home to Perugino's Last Supper, painted in the 1490's.
Cenacolo means "circle" or "coterie", but refers in a religious sense to the Last Supper. The scene depicits Christ and the Apostles sitting together around the table, with the exception of Judas, who sits opposite them holding a purse in his hand. The practice of giving halos to all except the latter seems common in works of that period. Although it's not obvious from the photo, it's a large work, eight meters (about 26 feet) wide, and a true masterpiece in its detail.
Perhaps because of being in a cloistered setting, this work was not discovered by the art world until 1845. It's an example of the type of gem that would be celebrated most anywhere else, but because of Florence's wealth of art and museums, a walk down a side street to view Perugino's Last Supper probably is not on the agenda of most tourists.
Later in the morning I noticed an old, closed pharmacy along an outer wall of the San Marco Church.
It was opened in 1450, and remained so until 1995. Apparently the Dominicans were talented in creating elixers. On the walls are listed various "medicines" and "perfumes". A similar type of pharmacy is still operating by the Church of Santa Maria Novella.
Looking forward to attending Mass this evening at Santa Lucia dei Magnoli, a church I had passed many times over the years, but had nearly given up on as being inactive, as there is nothing out front indicating otherwise, just a historical marker.
Then last Sunday I happened to be passing by and voila! the wooden doors were open to a bright and beautiful small church. Santa Lucia dei Magnoli was begun in 1078. The facade was repaired rather recently, as may be noted. Legend has it that Saint Francis of Assisi stayed at its hospice (lodgings) in his first visit to Florence in 1211. The terracotta lunette above the door shows Santa Lucia between two angels.
Ciao.

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