Thursday, April 11, 2013

A Walk in Mount Subasio Park - Part 1 of 3

Went for a walk yesterday, and have decided to do a three part post. It was, needless to say, a very long walk, at least about 25 miles. In the past I've spent much time on and around Mount Subasio, exploring and discovering its many treasures. However, Mount Subasio Park is quite large and extends far to the east, in the direction of Nocera Umbra. It is a rugged land of high hills, forests and farms. My plan was to follow trails and country roads where they might lead.
The partly cloudy forecast turned into ominous dark clouds that lingered throughout the day, but it didn't rain, and the cloud cover made for good hiking conditions. The first stretch followed the road around the mountain from Assisi to Costa di Trex, and from there it was down a steep and muddy trail to Ponte Marchetto.
This well-maintained bridge spans the Marchetto Ravine, which flows into the Tescio River, which flows into the Chiascio River, which flows into the Tevere River, which is one and the same as the Tiber River that flows through Rome. I'm not sure of the bridge's origins, or how much of it is reconstructed, however Francis would have crossed over here on his last journey to Assisi, from a place called Satriano. The ravine is deep and the water fast flowing.
The trails throughout the park are fairly well marked, in red and white with trail numbers.
There are places where the markings are worn; but, with a good map, it's fairly easy to stay on track. Not far beyond Ponte Marchetto there is another bridge, Ponte Cavaliero, not maintained and spanning a side ravine that flows into the Marchetto Ravine, which eventually flows you-already-know-where.
In researching last year, I read in various places that Ponte Cavaliero is an 18th Century bridge, a 17th Century bridge, a medieval bridge, and perhaps goes back to Roman times.
It appears likely one of the older options. In any case, what remains is very worn, narrow and precariously perched over the ravine. A sign warns people away because of the danger.
My journey did not require crossing it, so I tested it with one foot, then turned back to the day's hike.
The late Spring has resulted in some very muddy trails. It's not easy to capture mud in a photograph, but conditions were bad enough that I took up a walking stick for use in leaning, prodding and balancing through the muddiest of trail sections. I ended up carrying it for most of the day, the first time I've ever been pleased to have a hiking companion that was a real stick-in-the-mud.
The trail ahead, climbing up from the ravine, passed through woods and by farms, with no shortage of good views. It led to a place just mentioned, Satriano. When Francis was nearing an end to his life on earth, and ready to return to Assisi for the last time, a group of knights rode from Assisi to Satriano to escort him home. Several years ago a small shrine was built commemorating where this happened. It's set off in the woods, not far from the trail.
Legend has it when the knights arrived, they were hungry and tried to buy food from the poor people of Satriano, who would not sell them anything. When they turned to Francis for help, he explained that their problem was putting their trust in money rather than in God. He suggested simply asking for food for the love of God, which the knights did, and the people of Satriano were glad to help them.
Now, each year a horseback ride is held along the trail to Assisi, commemorating the knights bringing Francis home. A glimpse through the grating of the inside of the shrine.
Soon it was back to the trail for more adventures.
To be continued...

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